yup I remember doing that on mine nice looking work its on its way

 

This is really inspirational. My red on red 66 is in about the same stages, but moving slower. I'm sure you'll be done before me. But it's posts like this one that fire me up.

Thanks!

 

Well another good weekend the body man showed and fabricated and welded the rear of the right rear quarter. needless to say I'm very happy with the pogress

 

While the body work was being done I wire brushed the diff housing and apply a cost of POR 15.

 

While the body work was being done I wire brushed the diff housing and gave it a coat of POR 15

 

Sunday I removed the front and rear glass. Found some spots that need repair but nothing earth shattering

 

That window flange rust is very typical. My 67 had pretty much identical issues there. I also had to deal with some rust on the roof skin under the vinyl top seams.
The quarter wheel opening rust looks familiar, too. My car was repaired in the same cut-n-patch way as opposed to looking for replacement quarters. The minor rust didn't justify replacing the original panels.

 

Haven't posted in a couple of months but I have been making progress over that time I have had a lot of garage time. These are some photos of the diff build.Got all the parts from Jim @ JD Racing happy to report everything was perfect from Identifying the rear to installation.

 

Below are pics of the frame. After welding some small spots I prep it for POR 15 with clean and prep rinsed it down with a sponge. How ever I found you need to rinse it very well the next day the frame was covered with white residue. I did the same process again this time washing with a sponge and a good rinse with the hose when it dried it was ready for POR 15 chassis black.

 

Well when the POR15 chassis black dried I was not craze about the color I thought it was a little flat so the hunt was on. A friend recommended SEM Rust-Shield Semi Gloss #38101 so i decided to use it on the diff as well as the sway bars like it a lot better

 

Rear end went in very easy I used new lower boxed control from Fusik I fished the positive battery cable through the frame and secured tht with new P clips

 

I got all my lines and hardware from Inline Tube service was great and everything fit

 

Put the body back on the chassis Im glade to get my second bay back so I have some room to work. Painted the firewall with the same rust-shield semi gloss. New body mount kit and bolts from Fusick all went well.

 

I am impressed with your progress. The work you have done is top notch. I too need to post some updates, I've been to busy to put any time toward posting.

 

looks like you are getting in done! Nice job! I did about the same thing to mine I did some extra brace welding and made adjustable upper control arms too.

 

Just read this entire thread.
Great work and quick progress!

 

Very nice, theses pictures keep me going on my project.

 

Lookin good. Got to get mine going.

 

I had the same experience w POR15 it was flat not the semi gloss I was hoping for. I topcoated mine w POR 15 top coat semi gloss and it looks perfect....I think a second coat of POR 15 would have came out w the semi gloss as well but the POR 15 is advertised as not UV stable thats why I topcoated w the POR 15 topcoat...not that the frame will see much UV exposure .....

your car is coming along nicely

 

Thanks all for the compliments. This site has been a great help for me.

 

very nice....

just wondering why you did not remove the trans crossmember and motor mount pads for a 100% dismantle on the frame?

 

Not to butt in or anything, but if you see the pictures posted, I think he did there are pictures without any cross member or pads. look below no crossmember




and no motor mount pads,, Just sayin :-)

 

How did you snap the clips into the frame? I just installed my fuel lines and the clips were pain. Before I start my brake lines, how did you snap the clips in place?

 

The clips did take some time.I put the pin in place then used a drift pin to hold pressure on the clip while at the same time gently squeezing the pin with a needle nose pliers.I'm sure it would be easier with two people I just took my time.I did break 2 before i came up with a method.Good luck

 

It's been a while between post I've done quite a bit of work in the last month or so below are some photos the floors all done with POR 15 and of brake and steering parts ready to be installed

 

Rear end installed new brakes,shocks and springs

 

Front suspension going together

 

Front disc brake from Summit finally being installed after being on the parts shelf for a year!!!!

 

Thank god it rolls again. Time to give the garage a huge cleaning

 

Nice

 

Great progress, every piece that goes back on gives a great feeling!

 

Lookin good. I am in my installation phase of all and was wondering how you handled your rear wheel cylinders. Buy new or rebuild? I bought a rebuild kit from Inlinetube and it is not even close. I tried a cheapo new cylinder from O'Reily's. Not close, but looks like Inlinetube's rebuild kit would work on the el cheapo. Mine is also a'67 442.

 

OK - Tell me your secret to installing those front coils without scratching and scuffing or chipping the paint on your A-Arms and frame? I'm about to install mine and was gonna ask how to do it without dmamging the painted components?
Thanks
Tweed
Your's is looking sharp!!

 

I use an internal spring compressor. When the spring is compressed, it is much shorter and fits in place easily. I attach the spindle to both A arms before removing the spring compressor. It goes much faster if you use an impact gun on the spring compressor.
Brian

 

Guess i live in cocoon? I've never seen an INTERNAL spring compressor for these? I've only battled with the 2-piece outside compressors and they suck when it comes to doin the job?
How do you get the internal one out after the spindle is hooked up? Got any pix of it for a "dummy"??
Thanks

I from the old shade-tree mechanic school where we always wrapped a chain around the frame hooked to a floor jack to pull the lower A-arm up into place!

 

My 2 cents, the spring compressor goes in and out thru the shock hole in the lower control arm.

 

Here's a picture of the internal spring compressor. Yeah, I used to put the jack under that lower arm and would force the spring in to place. But back then, I wasn't worried about appearance. Now with parts being painted to look perdy, I needed to do things differently. I forgot where I bought this one. Maybe Sears or Harbor Freight.

Joe is correct in that it will come out the bottom but you will need to play with the positioning of the fingers a little so you can get them off of the coil and it's the top one that can pose a problem at times. Just be sure to hook the spring about 2 coils from the top and same on the bottom. You'll also need to get an idea of which way the spring will sit in the arm and position the fingers so they are not in the wrong place. It's a little bit of a PITA but it sure beats the other options. Sometimes I have been able to spin the upper section to put it lower on the spring to make it easier to remove when the spring is installed and the pressure has been released. When you install the compressed spring, the top of the rod will fit through the shock hole. Once you play with it a little, you'll find the task easier. Use an impact gun or you'll have a heck of a time trying to compress the spring with a wrench.
Brian

 

I used a large threaded rod through the shock holes and washers to put mine in. seemed to work good

 

I bought new Bendix #33447

 

The spring compressor fits inside the spring it has four hooks that fit around the coils. once the hooks are in plase you run it up with the impact gun until its fully compressed put the spring in place secure the lower ball joint to the knuckle. once the balljoint is secure spin the spring compressor bolt loose and it will drop out front shock hole in the lower control arm. This is still a challange with no engine weight on the frame but it works