1967 442 Body Off Restoration

Old February 26th, 2012, 06:33 PM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by Sea five View Post
Body work has begun. Thanks to a friend it was a very successful Saturday. The right rear quarter was the first to get a new life. Old rust was cut out and new metal fabricated and welded in place.The transition in just four hrs is amazing.
yup I remember doing that on mine nice looking work its on its way
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Old February 27th, 2012, 03:57 PM
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This is really inspirational. My red on red 66 is in about the same stages, but moving slower. I'm sure you'll be done before me. But it's posts like this one that fire me up.

Thanks!
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Old March 5th, 2012, 04:46 PM
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Well another good weekend the body man showed and fabricated and welded the rear of the right rear quarter. needless to say I'm very happy with the pogress
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Old March 5th, 2012, 04:51 PM
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While the body work was being done I wire brushed the diff housing and apply a cost of POR 15.
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Old March 5th, 2012, 04:55 PM
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While the body work was being done I wire brushed the diff housing and gave it a coat of POR 15
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Old March 5th, 2012, 05:00 PM
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Sunday I removed the front and rear glass. Found some spots that need repair but nothing earth shattering
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Old March 5th, 2012, 05:20 PM
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That window flange rust is very typical. My 67 had pretty much identical issues there. I also had to deal with some rust on the roof skin under the vinyl top seams.
The quarter wheel opening rust looks familiar, too. My car was repaired in the same cut-n-patch way as opposed to looking for replacement quarters. The minor rust didn't justify replacing the original panels.
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Old May 13th, 2012, 07:52 AM
  #88  
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Haven't posted in a couple of months but I have been making progress over that time I have had a lot of garage time. These are some photos of the diff build.Got all the parts from Jim @ JD Racing happy to report everything was perfect from Identifying the rear to installation.
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Old May 13th, 2012, 08:05 AM
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Below are pics of the frame. After welding some small spots I prep it for POR 15 with clean and prep rinsed it down with a sponge. How ever I found you need to rinse it very well the next day the frame was covered with white residue. I did the same process again this time washing with a sponge and a good rinse with the hose when it dried it was ready for POR 15 chassis black.
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Old May 13th, 2012, 08:17 AM
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Well when the POR15 chassis black dried I was not craze about the color I thought it was a little flat so the hunt was on. A friend recommended SEM Rust-Shield Semi Gloss #38101 so i decided to use it on the diff as well as the sway bars like it a lot better
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Old May 13th, 2012, 08:27 AM
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Rear end went in very easy I used new lower boxed control from Fusik I fished the positive battery cable through the frame and secured tht with new P clips
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Old May 13th, 2012, 08:44 AM
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I got all my lines and hardware from Inline Tube service was great and everything fit
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Old May 13th, 2012, 08:55 AM
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Put the body back on the chassis Im glade to get my second bay back so I have some room to work. Painted the firewall with the same rust-shield semi gloss. New body mount kit and bolts from Fusick all went well.
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Old May 13th, 2012, 10:19 AM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by Sea five View Post
Put the body back on the chassis I'm glade to get my second bay back so I have some room to work. Painted the firewall with the same rust-shield semi gloss. New body mount kit and bolts from Fusick all went well.
I am impressed with your progress. The work you have done is top notch. I too need to post some updates, I've been to busy to put any time toward posting.
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Old May 14th, 2012, 06:53 AM
  #95  
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looks like you are getting in done! Nice job! I did about the same thing to mine I did some extra brace welding and made adjustable upper control arms too.
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Old May 22nd, 2012, 05:52 AM
  #96  
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Just read this entire thread.
Great work and quick progress!
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Old May 22nd, 2012, 06:16 AM
  #97  
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Very nice, theses pictures keep me going on my project.
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Old May 22nd, 2012, 08:51 AM
  #98  
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Lookin good. Got to get mine going.
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Old May 22nd, 2012, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Sea five View Post
Well when the POR15 chassis black dried I was not craze about the color I thought it was a little flat so the hunt was on. A friend recommended SEM Rust-Shield Semi Gloss #38101 so i decided to use it on the diff as well as the sway bars like it a lot better
I had the same experience w POR15 it was flat not the semi gloss I was hoping for. I topcoated mine w POR 15 top coat semi gloss and it looks perfect....I think a second coat of POR 15 would have came out w the semi gloss as well but the POR 15 is advertised as not UV stable thats why I topcoated w the POR 15 topcoat...not that the frame will see much UV exposure .....

your car is coming along nicely
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Old May 22nd, 2012, 05:00 PM
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Thanks all for the compliments. This site has been a great help for me.
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Old May 22nd, 2012, 05:15 PM
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very nice....

just wondering why you did not remove the trans crossmember and motor mount pads for a 100% dismantle on the frame?
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Old May 22nd, 2012, 06:48 PM
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Ummmm he Did...

Originally Posted by Octania View Post
very nice....

just wondering why you did not remove the trans crossmember and motor mount pads for a 100% dismantle on the frame?

Not to butt in or anything, but if you see the pictures posted, I think he did there are pictures without any cross member or pads. look below no crossmember




and no motor mount pads,, Just sayin :-)


Last edited by Eddie Hansen; May 22nd, 2012 at 06:51 PM.
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Old July 5th, 2012, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Sea five View Post
I got all my lines and hardware from Inline Tube service was great and everything fit
How did you snap the clips into the frame? I just installed my fuel lines and the clips were pain. Before I start my brake lines, how did you snap the clips in place?
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Old July 7th, 2012, 05:35 AM
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The clips did take some time.I put the pin in place then used a drift pin to hold pressure on the clip while at the same time gently squeezing the pin with a needle nose pliers.I'm sure it would be easier with two people I just took my time.I did break 2 before i came up with a method.Good luck
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Old July 7th, 2012, 05:56 AM
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It's been a while between post I've done quite a bit of work in the last month or so below are some photos the floors all done with POR 15 and of brake and steering parts ready to be installed
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Old July 7th, 2012, 06:03 AM
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Rear end installed new brakes,shocks and springs
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Old July 7th, 2012, 06:08 AM
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Front suspension going together
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Old July 7th, 2012, 06:12 AM
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Front disc brake from Summit finally being installed after being on the parts shelf for a year!!!!
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Old July 7th, 2012, 06:17 AM
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Thank god it rolls again. Time to give the garage a huge cleaning
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Old July 7th, 2012, 09:55 AM
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Nice
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Old July 7th, 2012, 02:22 PM
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Great progress, every piece that goes back on gives a great feeling!
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Old August 22nd, 2012, 05:33 PM
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Wheel Cylinders

Originally Posted by Sea five View Post
Rear end installed new brakes,shocks and springs
Lookin good. I am in my installation phase of all and was wondering how you handled your rear wheel cylinders. Buy new or rebuild? I bought a rebuild kit from Inlinetube and it is not even close. I tried a cheapo new cylinder from O'Reily's. Not close, but looks like Inlinetube's rebuild kit would work on the el cheapo. Mine is also a'67 442.
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Old August 22nd, 2012, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Sea five View Post
Front suspension going together
OK - Tell me your secret to installing those front coils without scratching and scuffing or chipping the paint on your A-Arms and frame? I'm about to install mine and was gonna ask how to do it without dmamging the painted components?
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Your's is looking sharp!!
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Old August 23rd, 2012, 04:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Chesrown 67 OAI View Post
OK - Tell me your secret to installing those front coils without scratching and scuffing or chipping the paint on your A-Arms and frame? I'm about to install mine and was gonna ask how to do it without dmamging the painted components?
Thanks
Tweed
Your's is looking sharp!!
I use an internal spring compressor. When the spring is compressed, it is much shorter and fits in place easily. I attach the spindle to both A arms before removing the spring compressor. It goes much faster if you use an impact gun on the spring compressor.
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Old August 23rd, 2012, 05:11 AM
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Originally Posted by 69442C View Post
I use an internal spring compressor. When the spring is compressed, it is much shorter and fits in place easily. I attach the spindle to both A arms before removing the spring compressor. It goes much faster if you use an impact gun on the spring compressor.
Brian
Guess i live in cocoon? I've never seen an INTERNAL spring compressor for these? I've only battled with the 2-piece outside compressors and they suck when it comes to doin the job?
How do you get the internal one out after the spindle is hooked up? Got any pix of it for a "dummy"??
Thanks

I from the old shade-tree mechanic school where we always wrapped a chain around the frame hooked to a floor jack to pull the lower A-arm up into place!
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Old August 23rd, 2012, 05:24 AM
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My 2 cents, the spring compressor goes in and out thru the shock hole in the lower control arm.
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Old August 23rd, 2012, 05:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Chesrown 67 OAI View Post
Guess i live in cocoon? I've never seen an INTERNAL spring compressor for these? I've only battled with the 2-piece outside compressors and they suck when it comes to doin the job?
How do you get the internal one out after the spindle is hooked up? Got any pix of it for a "dummy"??
Thanks

I from the old shade-tree mechanic school where we always wrapped a chain around the frame hooked to a floor jack to pull the lower A-arm up into place!
Originally Posted by Oldsmaniac View Post
My 2 cents, the spring compressor goes in and out thru the shock hole in the lower control arm.
Here's a picture of the internal spring compressor. Yeah, I used to put the jack under that lower arm and would force the spring in to place. But back then, I wasn't worried about appearance. Now with parts being painted to look perdy, I needed to do things differently. I forgot where I bought this one. Maybe Sears or Harbor Freight.

Joe is correct in that it will come out the bottom but you will need to play with the positioning of the fingers a little so you can get them off of the coil and it's the top one that can pose a problem at times. Just be sure to hook the spring about 2 coils from the top and same on the bottom. You'll also need to get an idea of which way the spring will sit in the arm and position the fingers so they are not in the wrong place. It's a little bit of a PITA but it sure beats the other options. Sometimes I have been able to spin the upper section to put it lower on the spring to make it easier to remove when the spring is installed and the pressure has been released. When you install the compressed spring, the top of the rod will fit through the shock hole. Once you play with it a little, you'll find the task easier. Use an impact gun or you'll have a heck of a time trying to compress the spring with a wrench.
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Old August 23rd, 2012, 06:25 AM
  #118  
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I used a large threaded rod through the shock holes and washers to put mine in. seemed to work good
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Old August 23rd, 2012, 06:27 AM
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Originally Posted by jeffsims View Post
Lookin good. I am in my installation phase of all and was wondering how you handled your rear wheel cylinders. Buy new or rebuild? I bought a rebuild kit from Inlinetube and it is not even close. I tried a cheapo new cylinder from O'Reily's. Not close, but looks like Inlinetube's rebuild kit would work on the el cheapo. Mine is also a'67 442.
I bought new Bendix #33447
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Old August 23rd, 2012, 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Chesrown 67 OAI View Post
Guess i live in cocoon? I've never seen an INTERNAL spring compressor for these? I've only battled with the 2-piece outside compressors and they suck when it comes to doin the job?
How do you get the internal one out after the spindle is hooked up? Got any pix of it for a "dummy"??
Thanks

I from the old shade-tree mechanic school where we always wrapped a chain around the frame hooked to a floor jack to pull the lower A-arm up into place!
The spring compressor fits inside the spring it has four hooks that fit around the coils. once the hooks are in plase you run it up with the impact gun until its fully compressed put the spring in place secure the lower ball joint to the knuckle. once the balljoint is secure spin the spring compressor bolt loose and it will drop out front shock hole in the lower control arm. This is still a challange with no engine weight on the frame but it works
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