1967 442 Body Off Restoration
September 28th, 2011, 07:04 PM
#41
Kjr442
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,660
You are correct - Type P rears were used in the 67 W30 cars ( and all were the 4 pinion cone-type posi units too (no open rears were used --- all posis)(another disproof) == the axle tube code would be the key here. Once again --- this can only DISPROVE -- not Prove -- because of the interchangeability of the unit! Obviously if it has a correct W30 axle code then this cant be used to DISPROVE == are ya'all with me on this DISPROVE VS PROVE thing?
You know you're W30 cars, that's for sure!
September 29th, 2011, 07:58 AM
#42
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 16
Actually it is in a 1967 442 (not W-30) with a 12E build code ordered with the G88 Heavy Duty Performance Axel 3.90 and G80 Anti-Spin Rear Axel. It is as it came from the factory - not changed.
I am with you on the "Disprove" versus "Prove" position.
I am with you on the "Disprove" versus "Prove" position.
September 30th, 2011, 06:43 AM
#43
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Join Date: Nov 2009
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You are correct - Type P rears were used in the 67 W30 cars ( and all were the 4 pinion cone-type posi units too (no open rears were used --- all posis)(another disproof) == the axle tube code would be the key here. Once again --- this can only DISPROVE -- not Prove -- because of the interchangeability of the unit! Obviously if it has a correct W30 axle code then this cant be used to DISPROVE == are ya'all with me on this DISPROVE VS PROVE thing?
Thanks to all for the great response.
October 6th, 2011, 04:09 PM
#45
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Christmas in October. Santa came early ( Fed Ex driver)I received my disc brake kit from Summit. i was very impressed with the delivery time I placed my order at 1pm on Thursday afternoon and Santa was in my garage 9:30am Saturday.
October 15th, 2011, 10:01 AM
#49
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Last weekend I fished removing ball joints control arm bushings ect. now i'm waiting for all the parts to be returned from the sand blaster.I decided to do some work on the IP.How ever I have a couple of questions. I've attach two photos one of the is of them radio cut out. I'm not sure if this dash has been cut or is the fm radio bigger than an am? The hole looks big to me.
The other photo show a fuse holder with a small 2amp fuse. The temp and oil pressure gauge didn't work could this fuse solve that problem. The tach and fuel gauge and amp meter worked fine
As alway thanks to all for the help
The other photo show a fuse holder with a small 2amp fuse. The temp and oil pressure gauge didn't work could this fuse solve that problem. The tach and fuel gauge and amp meter worked fine
As alway thanks to all for the help
October 15th, 2011, 03:22 PM
#50
Yes the dash looks like it is cut top and bottom a hair.....silver edge goes across bottom and top while yours looks to be missing. i am not familiar with the rally pac dash so i cant answer the fuse question....maybe the shop manual can and I only have a 66 edition.
October 15th, 2011, 03:33 PM
#51
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Thank you. Is there someone on CO that restores IPs
October 15th, 2011, 04:31 PM
#52
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: HOUSTON TX.
Posts: 116
There sure is his name is ron roth. Lives in rochester michigan. He's on oc. Just search dashboard chome and you will find him. He did my 67 442
ip and it looks better than factory. His is a great guy and loves his work. Check him out
ip and it looks better than factory. His is a great guy and loves his work. Check him out
October 15th, 2011, 06:33 PM
#53
Registered User
Thanks for the kind words Richard.Sea five.Someone has cut that dash probably to accomodate a stereo.I can restore an IP for you I have quite a few cores .That particular area is extremely difficult if not impossible to fill.As for the Rallye Pac.I am currently doing 2 restorations for Tweed Vorhees and the one IP has a Rallye Pac.I can take pictures of the gauge pack and send them to you for wiring purposes.Give me a call if you want to talk about a restoration.
Ron Roth
586-556-1234
Ron Roth
586-556-1234
October 19th, 2011, 08:37 AM
#55
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Thanks for the kind words Richard.Sea five.Someone has cut that dash probably to accomodate a stereo.I can restore an IP for you I have quite a few cores .That particular area is extremely difficult if not impossible to fill.As for the Rallye Pac.I am currently doing 2 restorations for Tweed Vorhees and the one IP has a Rallye Pac.I can take pictures of the gauge pack and send them to you for wiring purposes.Give me a call if you want to talk about a restoration.
Ron Roth
586-556-1234
Ron Roth
586-556-1234
Also I will be calling you if I'm third or forth in line that's ok I'm a year away from reinstall.
October 24th, 2011, 06:29 PM
#56
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 288
Cool this will help me decide on how to get the body off....I was thinking a few buddies and a case of beer but that could get dangerous
October 24th, 2011, 07:00 PM
#57
Registered User
Instrument Panel Restoration
Jim
I have sent you the link.
To your EMail
If I am still alive in a year ,I am here for you.
Remember I live in Detroit.
Only joking..
I am here for you when you are ready
Good luck on the project.
Or as the say in Canada
The Pro Ject
Ron
586-556-1234
I have sent you the link.
To your EMail
If I am still alive in a year ,I am here for you.
Remember I live in Detroit.
Only joking..
I am here for you when you are ready
Good luck on the project.
Or as the say in Canada
The Pro Ject
Ron
586-556-1234
October 26th, 2011, 03:14 PM
#58
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 266
1 4 good floor jacks. Not 1 good and 1 not so good like i had
2 A good friend that you can work well with. Not alone like I did
3 If you need hight use 4x4s on the floor to put the jacks on. Do pile 4x4's on the top of the jack the body becomes very unstable.
4 No beers until everything is stable.
Enjoy and good luck I'll be following your build
November 20th, 2011, 10:18 AM
#60
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I'm still doing a lot of disassembly door glass, window regulators and a lot of little picky stuff.I forgot what a pain window regulators can be. But I did get the core support back from the body and it looks great IMO.It's nice to see parts ready for reassembly
November 24th, 2011, 07:29 AM
#62
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Thanks thing are moving very well. Unfortunately Our weather is moving well also right into winter I hope that doesn't slow down progress I,m looking to rent a garage for another car I have, If not the chassis build waits for the spring.That means body work all winter.
December 24th, 2011, 10:11 AM
#67
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The last couple of weekends of garage time has not been glamorous. I've been cleaning the underside of the body. A lot of build up in 44 years many hrs of degreasing cleaning and last but not least undercoating removal. I used a torch to get the 44 year old undercoating soft then scraped it of.Still collecting chassis parts. This week rear brake parts arrived with the exception of the front e brake cable.
December 25th, 2011, 04:09 PM
#70
Tony
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: wisconsin
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January 7th, 2012, 12:27 PM
#71
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I mad a little progress over the Holiday season. I tried my hand at spray painting. Other than a rattle can I have no experience. A friend has a body who is also working on my hood gave me a crash course 101 on paint mixing and spraying. Photos below show the end results not bad if I do say so myself.
January 8th, 2012, 07:11 PM
#74
Kjr442
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Texas
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January 25th, 2012, 11:57 AM
#75
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This is the most rust I've found but not all of it. i also found a little under the rear wheel well moulding when I removed them. I also have not removed the front or rear glass yet so time will tell but I'm still very happy about the minimal of rust
February 18th, 2012, 05:51 AM
#77
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Well haven't reported much just finished removing undercoating nothing glamorous about that but I'm glade it's behind me.I sent my frame out to have some welding done on the rear cross bar looks like someone put a hook on it and pulled i out a little, not a big deal. From there to the sandblaster and that start the chassis build.
February 21st, 2012, 04:36 PM
#78
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Started to work on the diff this weekend. Found out I have 3:23 gears I am going to upgrade to a posi. I think the 3:23 are good all around gears I hope to do some long distance drives so I don't want the gearing to steep.Any thoughs always welcome.
February 21st, 2012, 04:46 PM
#79
323 gears are a good all around gear..... usually it was the most GM liked to put in there on AC cars.... For me I would need at least 355's... ya would want a little ballzy feeling being it is a 442!
February 26th, 2012, 05:54 AM
#80
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Body work has begun. Thanks to a friend it was a very successful Saturday. The right rear quarter was the first to get a new life. Old rust was cut out and new metal fabricated and welded in place.The transition in just four hrs is amazing.
