Hi All I'm in the early stages of my project I have read many threads on this forum before I began and found it very helpful.However I have never posted a thread before so hopefully this is the right place for a question.

I'm close to lifting the body off the frame. I am having a problem removing the four body mount bolts in the rear. All four of the nuts are turning in the cage. I drilled a 1 inch hole over the very rear one so I can see the cage but can't quite hold the nut. Any help would be great.

 

best and fastest way is take a grinder with a cut off wheel or sawzall with a metal blade and cut through the body bushing and bolt to get the body off then you can deal with the cage nuts from the bottom of the braces

 

Thanks I have a sawzall I'll pick up some good blades tomorrow

 

Very good advice I cut four body mounts in less than an hour.

Thanks

 

If you cut holes in the trunk floor for access, choose a size holesaw for which Steele Rubber, etc. sell rubber caps. Then the setup will look sanitary and you will have easy future access to the nut and washer you used to replace that caged nut.

 

Good Luck on your restoration. I am hoping one day I will be able to do a frame off on my 442.

 

and be sure to post photos along the way..
watching a teardown/rebuild is everyones guilty pleasure !

 

Thanks for the interest. I started to take the car apart so far I'm very happy with the what I,m finding.The condition the floors and trunk pan look very good.I'll know more as the nose comes off.

 

bag & tag all fasteners with each part you remove.
the better your tag your bolts the easier it will be to reassemble. ziplock bags work well..

do NOT use the "bucket of bolts " method.
(trust me )

 

I'll be following along too...really enjoy watching other's progress and I pick up a lot of info along the way. Good luck!
Mike

 

AND take LOTS of pictures...of everything! Wiring, bolts, nuts, clips, trim pieces....EVERYTHING. It will help greatly when re-assembling...trust me.

Tom
68 442 convt (didnt take enough photos)
70 F85
95 Aurora

 

A lot of us like photo so I though Id post a few. Spent a good amount of the three day weekend in the garage.I got the body off the frame and the frame out from under the car.I never expected to accomplish this mich

 

More pics of frame removal

 

Inch by inch I was able to roll the frame from left to right. I had to secure the left side of the body. On the right side I move the jacks and blocks as needed in order to roll the frame out. Enjoy the photos and thanks for all the advice and interest.

 

Make sure you have a factory assembly manual. Most parts houses have them. Also purchase a 1967 Chassis Manual. The book version is the handiest, the CD is the cheapest. Check Ebay.

 

Wow, you really are making some progress. Can you please tell us what your plans are for the drive train, and color scheme? If you need anything, post up in the parts wanted section. There's a ton of helpful hoarders on here. I'm not tryin' to bust your ***** here dude, but you really have to get a better camera. Your photos are all blurry. Throw that thing against the wall or use it just for a phone. If it is one. Keep us all posted on your progress.

 

Did you get this car off Ebay? I was watching a auction with one like this.

 

Got to be the same car. Its has the same wheels too.

Looks like a excellent car to build from.

I only had 1 cage nut spin but this is how I adressed it.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...html#post43738

 

I think so too! Was a build sheet found in the tear down? I remember thinking this could have been a W-30 car???

 

This car was on e bay last winter and didn't sell. I contacted the owner and bought from him.As you all know the W-30 thing is so hard to document. The car has the battery in the trunk and the red wheel wells.The engine has been changed so no help there I did not find a build sheet but what I did find is the positive cable secured to the frame with p clips in a very neat manner. This would have been very difficult to do with the body on. On the other side the positive cable is black one would think the factory would use red.

 

I have decided to go with the origanl colors spanish red with red interior.I'm not to sure on the drive train yet. The muncie 4 speed will stay still thinking about the engine and diff.. I agree my pics came out bad !!!

 

Well I haven't posted in a week or so but I've had a lot of garage time in the last week or so and that's a good thing. I completely disassembled the frame.I now have a lot of parts that need to be restored, rebuilt or replaced.I was very happy no supervises during the tear down frame looks very good.

 

After the chassis tear down I've been doing a lot of cleaning removing old bushings and more cleaning. Some parts went to be blasted. Photos show fenders down to metal after blasting and primed

 

Wow rust free!

 

Can you post a pic of th cowl trim tag -- that info can help to "disprove" it as a factory W-30 car. Also there are a few other "indicators" as well. Thanks
T.

 

you can access these manuals online for FREE at the Olds Performance Club section of wildaboutcars.com. If you arent a member, join up -- its FREE to join --- you will find lots of info and help there -- all for FREE. Join our group today and sign up if you are not already a member. That goes for everyone out here - check it out --- you will be glad you did!!

 

i dont want to complain but...
why are your photos out of focus?

i appreciate your efforts to update the thread! really, i do!!!!

keep up the great work and if you need any questions answered, just ask!

and remember: they come apart way easier than they go back together, so take your time.

 

I know my photos are horrible I have a hard time attached photos it takes me forever and now I get a "upload error" message. I have to take some time and learn how to do it. not sure why I'm having a problem should be a simple process.

 

I'm not sure of the quality of this photo but thanks alot for your interest.And I did join wild about cars.

 

Welcome to Wildaboutcars! You will be able to get a lot of info for your resto project.
Now for your trim tag --
color R -R = Spanish Red top and bottom ( no vinyl top)
975-B Red buckets
W 2 LG Tinted windows 4 speed w/console
5VJ -- 442 and deluxe seat belts

build date of 02B -- 2nd week of feb at Lansing plant ( this date is within the W-30 build date range)

 

Cool car and project, I think I saw the car on Ebay and we discussed here if a real W30 would have power steering along with power brakes? Tweed? Your car appeared to have these but did have chroe valve covers, red inner wells, and some other W30 items. Radiator core support did not have holes for bezels so it left us wondering.... Will be following your build!

 

Joe --- You could get both power steering and brakes on a 4 speed 67 W-30. You could NOT get Power brakes on a W-30 with TH400 due to low vacuum. Now that you mention the core support, i remember us discussing this car back when it was on ebay! Its gonna be a nice project. I will be following along too! Boy, Joe is this car ever a whole lot like yours!! You guys could have "twins" when both are completed!!
T.

 

I guess the core support could have been changed, but the battery location could have been changed too. I think it is a W30, I hope you can find a way to prove it.

 

Unfortunately for any of us that have a car like this(myself included) --- The only way to "prove" that it is a factory 67 W-30 car is to have either the build sheet or the window sticker. It is even worse for the 4-speed because the trans doesnt have any identifying numbers whereas the automatics had the exclusive W-O-G tag code.
It is much easier to "disprove" than to "prove" --- So that is where we start to work -- looking for things that are "wrong" for a factory W car.
Obviously we all know certain parts can be or could have been replaced so looking at any of those can be arguable --- in you case, the core support ---it is NOT a W-30 - but as you said, it "could" have been changed - same goes for any of the driveline components.
More than likely, the best you can do is to add or change all of the components that you know are now incorrect to the correct ones - then you can "claim" the car to be factory W-30 but you still wind up in the exact same boat as the rest of us when it comes to "burden of proof". Without that concrete evidence of the build sheet or window sticker, you just have a car exactly like many of us, including Oldsmaniac and myself. I can still work with you to "disprove" your car, but none of us can ever PROVE it! Again, if this IS the car that was on ebay - I worked on it at that time and became very confident that the car WAS NOT a factory produced 67 W-30.(Thats why I didnt buy it- I already own 2 of them in that same "boat" - dont need a 3rd)
Have fun with your project and you will have a very nice car when it is done! And all you will need to do is to 'Present it" for what you know it is - and with the "possibility" of it having been a factory W-30. Its gonna be a great car and anyone would be proud to own it!
Good Luck -
T.

 

Well said Tweed, Sea Five you are making great progress, keep the pictures and reports coming!!

 

Yes, well put.
I would have liked to have seen how some of it came apart, not that it would Prove anything, but some of the tell tell signs that you can find along the way can be nice to add to the story. I read on another build that some of the original trunk material was found under the battery tray, just an example of what I am talking about.

 

 

Does your 442 have a rear end that has ribs like the below photos? I apologize for the photo quality. These were Pontiac sourced HD rear ends and would have a "P" code as the first position of the code on the axel. I am led to believe all factory W-30 1967 442's had this Pontiac sourced rear axel. This could be another step in proving this is a factory W-30 car.

 

You are correct - Type P rears were used in the 67 W30 cars ( and all were the 4 pinion cone-type posi units too (no open rears were used --- all posis)(another disproof) == the axle tube code would be the key here. Once again --- this can only DISPROVE -- not Prove -- because of the interchangeability of the unit! Obviously if it has a correct W30 axle code then this cant be used to DISPROVE == are ya'all with me on this DISPROVE VS PROVE thing?

 

Just because this rear you have pictured is a Type P housing --- it doesnt mean that it came in a W30 car --- There were lots more of em used in GTOs!! It has to be a 4-pinion cone style posi with a correct axle tube code to be considered as a factory 67 W30 component!