redoldsman

I love the term "install the car" which is exactly what you did. Somebody is going to get a very nice car.

Ap6954

Never thought about those cars being a subframe car. That makes installation a lot easier in my opinion. If you have a lift that is.

jensenracing77

Got lucky! With the car in the air I decided to brake loose all the brake lines. Every one of them come loose without hurting or twisting the line!

WTHIRTY1

Impressive, Eric! Wish I had that kind of time for projects.

jensenracing77

First time moving under its own power in a few decades.

scrappie

Good stuff, nice work Eric. Another cool jetfire and I’m sure will be running like a top.

jensenracing77

Hood insulation is done.

Eddie Hansen

Awesome work Eric just awesome

jensenracing77

Working on some wiring bugs and found that the circuit board in the dash had a bad trace. I have extras but I may just solder a wire in this one instead of puling one out of the parts cars. ALso, the float in the fluid tank was not working and the float bulb had a hole in it. Took it apart and rebuilt it. Works good as new now.

Waiting on the master cylinder to come back so I can finish the brakes. I did take it for another drive without brakes though. Just a mile down the road and back two times. The engine and transmission work fantastic! The original Borg Warner shifter is sloppy like they always are. I am not going to custom make parts for this one like I did mine.

Ap6954

Those printed circuit boards are so fragile. Once they get “handled” a few times the thin foil seems to break or tear. Looks in good shape though.

Bfg

I have the same problem on the printed circuit board on my 65 Cutlass, how do you successfully solder the tear in the torn foil? I have another circuit board to replace it with but it has a missing pin, wondering what would be the easier fix, any thoughts, thanks in advance

jensenracing77

I hear the pins are easy to fix if you know how but I have never had to do it to learn. I typically use a small wire and just solder across a cracked trace. Don't want to get it to hot, just hot enough to do the job. It is so thin it is very easy to get it to hot.. You can get the copper foil and replace it that way also.

Bfg

Where can I get copper foil?

jensenracing77

Amazon has several kinds of it.

Hairy Olds

This should work.
https://www.stainedglassforless.com/copper-foil-tape/

Bfg

So, is the foil tape applied by an adhesive back? If so sounds pretty simple, hardest part will be getting the speedometer cluster out to repair it

jensenracing77

Well, yes and no. The stuff I was playing with would stick good enough to stay together but I didn't trust it for long term. I clear coated over the top and that helps hold it down also. On the ends, I still soldered the two pieces of foil when I used it. I don't know how good the contact is going through the "tape" part. It is supposed to be ok and not solder it though. I am sure there is a more professional way but I am not the expert, I can just make it work.

jensenracing77

Some of those have a higher resistance and not really the right stuff from what I understand.

jensenracing77

More work done. Have been pulled away from it a little lately. Also waiting on the master cylinder and seat covers to come in.

scrappie

Engine compartment looks fresh!

jensenracing77

Still waiting on the seat covers. Lots of cleaning and detailing to do now. I have right at 100 miles on it and runs fantastic! I got way behind on posting stuff. I have been so busy that I just couldn't take time to do it.

Will have to pull the seats back out and replace the foam and covers when they come in.

Ap6954

Awesome ride. How do the Jetfires drive when compared to a full frame car like the A bodies?

My_other_car_is_a_W30

My dad use to tell me that was a typical hiding spot for spare keys, usually after the wife or kids would lock the keys inside. He said inside the air cleaner or somewhere else under the hood was also a pretty common place for spare keys.