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I " threw in the towel " on bodywork .
I'm just not good enough at it to satisfy my OCD .
Hopefully the body shop I sent it to will get it done by the time I get all the rest of the things done .
Boy I hope all the bolts are tight on that rotisserie! Good luck with the bodywork.
I didn't throw in the towel-I never bothered on the body and paint! Didn't want to go there, at least you gave it a GOOD try! I had a friend that offered to work my car in between jobs, like everyday cars that people depended on, that was his bread and butter vs.restoration projects. It did take 2 years working it in as filler car in between jobs and it worked out pretty good time wise and being that it saved me thousands of $$$.
The PCV valve is stock '63 Olds ( AC # CV606 )
The valve covers are real chrome ones from a '61 Starfire , and the hole was bigger .
I found that a PCV valve grommet from a mid sixties Chevy six would mate the two perfectly .
Next the radiator support was installed . I used body mounts from a Pontiac supplier . They were slightly shorter , so I had to use 1/2 in shorter bolts .
They seem to fit and work OK .
Thanks !
It's been eight years in the process , and will probably be a couple more .
I'm supposed to get the body back from the body shop monday . They did more in two weeks than I could have in three months .
I had found an NOS oil cap on E-Bay but the foam inside had completely deteriorated after 50 years .
I bought an air filter for a Honda lawnmower . I carved it into a "doughnut" and put it into the cap .
Kind of a rough job , but once I pack it into the cap it looks OK .
Would have preferred black foam , but you would have to stand on your head to see it anyway .
Well , I got the radiator installed .
Then I filled the radiator with water and put a pressure tester on it .
Of course it leaked . Between the thermostat housing and the manifold .
The surfaces were badly pitted from corrosion . So I filed them flat , and hopefully it wont leak when I put it together tomorrow .
Maybe , I want to paint the roof first . While it is still on the rotissirie .
If all goes well with that , then I will paint the rest after the body and front sheetmetal are assembled .
If not , it goes to a " pro " .
The water outlet was badly pitted in the area contacted by the radiator hose .
I filled the pits with All-Metal , and sanded it smooth .
Then I painted the outlet and installed it .
I then filled the cooling system with water and pressure tested it . It held 15 PSI without leaking .
Wow ! I 've really neglected this thread .
Well ,here's what has happened in the last two months .
I got my engine , which I built in 2018 , running for the first time .
Here's the video ;
I was plagued with a leaking fuel line at first ,but later got it straightened out .
Engine test stand ? I don't need no steenking test stand .
Just a battery and a gas can .
Here's another video ;
Getting closer! Are you going to leave it red oxide on the bottom and inside?
Yes, according to an old timer I know , who worked at Fisher Body in Lansing .
These bodies were welded together and then totally submerged in a vat of red primer .
They were sanded " where it shows " and then went to the paint shop .
Then they went to the body assembly line where they got glass , carpet , a dashboard , upholstery , seats ,doors , and a trunk lid .
Last edited by Charlie Jones; October 14th, 2020 at 08:05 PM.
Yes, according to an old timer I know , who worked at Fisher Body in Lansing .
These bodies were welded together and then totally submerged in a vat of red primer .
They were sanded " where it shows " and then went to the paint shop .
Then they went to the body assembly line where they got glass , carpet , a dashboard , upholstery , seats ,doors , and a trunk lid .
That's what I've seen on the F-85s of the same era too. To be fully authentic, tell whoever paints the body to resist their natural instincts and NOT mask off the underside and let the overspray go in there. That's what the factory did.
Another milestone! A question, one I have for many body-offs like yours - how will you protect that beautiful frame and running gear while you paint the body?
Another milestone! A question, one I have for many body-offs like yours - how will you protect that beautiful frame and running gear while you paint the body?
I may mask the framerails when I spray the rockers . A little overspray is OK on the underside of the body . As that's what the factory did .
Are you going to paint according to the body tag, or do your own thing?
This car was a honey gold ( sahara mist ) with a white top and a beige and brown interior .
None of this appeals to me .
I am going to paint it red ( regal mist ) with a red and maroon interior .
I just read this whole thread as I am in the process of buying a 64 Dynamic 88. you are truly and inspiration to me as I have several years ahead of me before I get my car into the restoration process. At least into the detail that you have going on here. My initial priorities will be to assess the overall car and attempt to make it run. It has been sitting awhile, but it is complete, and no too badly rusted for a Pennsylvania car. I also noticed some excellent information on Parts for some desired upgrades (Love the Jeep steering box upgrade, I have that on my 65 El Camino) Jeff
Thanks Jeff , I'm eight years into this and I'm into the body re-assembly phase .
I've gotten to know this car intimately , as I have cleaned , re-finished , repaired , or replaced every part .
Parts for this car have come from 48 states and two provinces of Canada .
Hello Charlie, what brand and part number did you choose for your replacement PS belt and the 2 alternator A/C belts. I have some replacements installed but I don't like the way that there not setting all the way in the pulley grooves...Thanks...
I haven't bought a P/S belt yet . Will do that when I install P/S pump .
The alternator & A/C belts were Gates . I got them from O'Reilly's .
Part number was 7673 .
Last edited by Charlie Jones; December 8th, 2020 at 08:32 AM.
July 7th, 2020, 11:35 AM
