Paul, Here's another thread that I hope will help you. Note the use of a razor blade to pry off the switch face plate from the bezel. https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...removal-31124/

Removing the switch may allow you access to those two small nuts that attach the wiper switch bezel to the dash.

 

Very interesting and helpful, Tom. I did not see those pics in another thread, thank you.

I suspect in that sharp object I'm seeing one of those studs, with the other one hidden from view by the plastic plug on the back of the switch. I can't see if there's a nut on the stud that I can see, but there might be. Will have another look.

I apologize if I gave the impression I'm not replacing the wood grain. I am replacing all three wood grain pieces on the dash. Your idea of getting the wood grain off with the switch plate still stuck to it encourages me, although I still need to make sure there are no nuts holding that switch plate to the dash.

It appears I removed the nuts holding the actual switch on for nothing. Oh well, live and learn.

Busy tonight but will get back at this on the weekend.

Again, many thanks for your efforts.

Paul

 

Now that I review all these posts, I see I probably didn't remove the screws holding the wiper switch for nothing. That switch will likely have to come off for me to get access to the nuts on those studs holding the switchplate to the dash. What fun. Will update to help the next guy taking this on.

 

I think you have it now, Paul. And as mentioned in post #41, removing the switch, while maybe not necessary, will make for easier access to the small palnuts that hold the switch plate bezel to the dash. Removing those palnuts may require you to pull slightly on the switch plate bezel, just as you did when you removed the 'Cutlass' name plate on the glove box door.

 

The two studs with palnuts holding the wiper switch plate bezel to the dash are visible and highlighted here in your pic.

 

FINALLY! After hours of trying to get a socket on those speednuts, palnuts, whatever you want to call them, that hold the wiper switch plate to the dash, I got them off and removed the switch plate. It definitely helped that I removed the actual switch from behind the dash first. That's the only way to get access.

Now, the convertible top switch is different. Here's a photo. There doesn't appear to be an easy--to-remove wiring plug to unplug, like there was with the wiper switch. I removed one screw for the switch (top right corner). I can't tell for sure, but assume there's a second one on the bottom left corner, hidden by those wires. Anyone know how I can unplug those wires? Or can I? Seems that's the only way I can get at another screw, assuming there's a second one there.

What a job. Had I known, I'm not sure I would have tackled this. Then again, the satisfaction if/when I get done will be enormous

For anyone who wants to try this, some tips:
-use something to cushion your head on and beside the brake pedal as you're working under the dash.
-to get a socket on those tiny palnuts, I reached my left hand, with a small ratchet, through the fuel gauge hole and positioned the socket over the nut as best I could. Then I took my head out from under the dash, reached my right hand in and went by feel, pushing the socket to the nut firmly, and gently turning the ratchet from above, with my left. Once the nut is very loose, you can simply finish with your fingers so you don't lose the nut in the dash.

 

Here's the top switch. Note: only loosen the lower left screw which will make it easier to re-install the switch. You can see the palnuts behind the switch holding the top switch bezel to the dash.

 

Fantastic photo, Tom. But... how to get the wiring off that switch is my question. I can't see or get at that lower left screw to loosen it.

Paul

 

The top switch wire harness connector appears to be press fit into the top switch. (If you have small open end wrenches, and dexterity, you may be able to loosen the lower left nut and remove the upper right nut under the harness connector.) It's been a few decades since I replaced my top switch, but I'm pretty sure that harness can be carefully pried off. Be sure the battery is disconnected. Start by carefully pulling and rocking the connector side-to-side.

 

Yeah, it is fairly loose and movable already, just with the one screw out. I'll see what I can do tomorrow after work. I only want to pull on the right part of this thing: just the odd-shaped black piece with the wires going into it? Or the plastic beneath that as well?

Also, you're saying I only have to remove the top right screw, and just LOOSEN the lower left one. That would certainly help with putting it back on. But will I have access to the pal nuts without taking the whole switch off, as I had to do with the wiper switch? We shall see.

Time to hit the hay. Thanks again for the constant feedback. Keeps me going

Paul

 

You've done this out of sequence. If you want to disconnect the harness from the switch, you would do that before removing any screws holding the switch to the dash. Since you have one screw out but didn't disconnect the harness from the switch, either continue loosening the other screw until the switch with wire harness connector comes out (you'll need to loosen the lower left screw, and turn the switch slightly), or replace the upper right screw to keep the switch tight while you remove the harness connector to the switch. Otherwise, you may snap off one of the ears of the top switch trying to remove the connector.

There must be some type of plastic retainer holding the harness connector to the switch.

 

On the top switch........having done this not that long ago........the harness doesn't have any sort of retainer. It's just really well attached.

How I did it (and I'm the all thumbs guy..) was used a small flat screwdriver, I think the one I used was from my eyeglass repair kit and very gingerly pried it up a bit and then just wiggled it to and fro. It took about a half hour of sweating and imaginative cursing but the harness does come off.

To get the nuts off, a flexible 1/4" extension was a huge help.

EDIT: Sorry, didn't see that you already had the nuts off.......probably easier and less risky to put a screw back in but you could probably use your hand to apply pressure from the front and wiggle from the back with the other....pardon the non value added chatter.

Cheers,

Troy.

 

Today's update: I put the top right screw back in as you suggested, Tom. Very good idea. Last thing I want to do is break something. I pulled and wiggled that wiring thing best I could, but so far it's not out. Tried like hell to get at the lower left screw without unplugging the switch, but I'm pretty sure that's impossible.

Troy, thanks for weighing in. It's good to know there's no retainer to worry about. Tomorrow I will try, VERY CAREFULLY, to use a small screwdriver as you suggested, while pushing the switch from the front.

Of course, getting the switch plate off so I can remove the wood grain is the end goal here. And I did manage to get one of the pal nuts off the switch plate stud. The top one. Lost it in the dash, but that's not the end of the world. Getting that second pal nut off the bottom stud looks tough if I don't get the switch out of the way, but perhaps with a small 1/4 inch wrench instead of a socket (I need to buy one) it's at least worth a try. A flexible extension sounds like a nice thing to have. Will investigate.

Side note: the weather's been REALLY nice here. Perfect for convertibling. Ever since I started taking all this stuff apart and have it strewn around the interior.

Paul

 

Update: yesterday, after much cursing and wriggling and pulling, and using a small flat screwdriver to gently pry with my left hand through the hole where the fuel gauge goes, I GOT THE WIRING HARNESS OFF THE CONVERTIBLE TOP SWITCH! Good lord, what a job.

I didn't see a way to get at the palnuts holding the switch plate bezel to the dash without removing the switch entirely, so I took both screws out and removed the actual switch. In removing the bezel, both palnuts disappeared. Or maybe there weren't any on those studs to begin with. There must have been, though. Oh well. IT'S OFF! Here's the inside part of the switch.





Next step was to use a heat gun and peel off the long woodgrain piece that surrounds all the controls. That went smoothly. Silly me, I hadn't even taken the new woodgrain piece out for a close inspection yet. And when I dry-fit it in place, I noticed a flaw on the edge of the cutout for the radio. Not huge, but a flaw nonetheless. Given the price, I'm not thrilled. Took some photos and called OPGI, who asked me to send the photos. Have just done that. We'll see what they say. The flaw may or may not show up on this photo.





Meanwhile, I've begun cleaning the old glue off the old bezels, using paint thinner with a paper towel and my finger nails.

Anyone know of a good way to polish/renew the plastic face of the glove box door and surrounding area? I tried to remove some stray glue from the glove box door (from when I replaced that woodgrain piece) with paint thinner, and I don't like the results. It's a little white. I hope to god that can be improved on.

My wife and I are away at the lake next week, so this may be the last update for a week.

Thanks again for the help. MUCH appreciated.

Paul

 

Update: I sent photos of the flawed woodgrain piece to OPGI, and they say they'll ship me a replacement. So the project's on hold until I get that piece and glue it in (sigh). I'm hoping it's here this week.

On another topic, my odometer has been misaligned since I bought the car 34 years ago. I have no idea how, why or when. I'll post a pic. Now that I'm removing gauges anyway, does anybody know if that's fixable? This would be the time to take the speedo unit out, assuming it can even be worked on. It's always bugged me. The mileage the odometer records isn't exactly accurate, either. A road test I did years ago (using those posted markings on the highway) suggested it shows 100 miles as 104 miles.

Apologies for going off topic. Let me know if I should start a new thread for this.

Thanks.

Paul

 

There's a retainer that keeps the odometer numbers properly aligned. After decades, the retainer becomes brittle and often breaks. A replacement retainer is available. (See image.) Taking the speedo apart and replacing the retainer is probably a different thread. Be sure you're up to the task. If you're going to replace the retainer, you should replace the clear lenses on the gauges, paint the inside gauge "can" for improved illumination, and paint the tips of the fluorescent red-orange gauge needles which are light-faded.

 

Hmmmm. Strange that this thing has been misaligned since at least 1985. I understand there is one shady character in the car's history, so it's not impossible he tinkered with the odometer.

I'll look for a thread on that, but not sure I'll want to dive into it immediately. Summer is short here, after all

Thanks, Tom. Will update when I start putting things back together. Heaven help me remember it all.

 

Update: Still no sign of my replacement wood grain piece from OPGI. Had to make a few agitated phone calls. Seems this is not a typical return (just one piece from the 3-piece kit needs replacing), so it has become convoluted. So I put the wiper and convertible top switches back in so I can drive the car. Summer is short here, after all. Now that I've taken them off, it wasn't so bad to put them back on, really. I left the bezels off, though. The ones held on by those palnuts. Because the wood grain piece will go behind them, and I don't need them on to work the switches.

I did put the new faceplates onto my bezels. See photos. You'll notice the lettering was completely rubbed off the old ones. What a difference that'll make.

As for those tiny palnuts, it seems they are hard to find. My local Olds guy gave me the two I need, but I can't seem to find them locally at all. Anyone know if they are still available somewhere? I'm worried I'll lose another one in the dash when I install the bezels.

Bye for now.

 

Perhaps order a 2nd set of wood grain dash applique from OPGI, use only the one dash piece out of the new set, swap into the new set your damaged piece, and return the 2nd set to OPGI. They don't sell that one piece individually that is damaged, so it's an issue that you'll have to solve for them by buying a whole new set and then returning it with your damaged piece in the returned set. Make them pay for shipping.

 

So the same day of my last post, Tom, I received the replacement wood grain piece in the mail. Funny how that works. It was sent directly to me by the supplier, HH Classic Auto. It is flawless. They also sent another glove box piece, because those two pieces are cut from one piece of material so as to have a perfect wood grain match right across the dash. Of course, I'd already glued a new piece to the glove box. But I compared the two, and I'm happy with the match.

I'm off Monday, so that's when this final piece is going on. I'll only put glue on the dash, not on the actual wood grain insert, otherwise I'd risk getting messy strands of glue everywhere.

Will post final pics when it's done!

Paul

 

Didn't get everything done on Monday, but I finished today!!! Not before a slight adventure, though. Thought I'd use the car to take my mother to visit her sister about 90 minutes outside the city. Just for the ride. Well, 30 minutes out of the city and I begin to hear a fast ticking sound from under the hood. Louder than ticking valves. By the time I pull over, it's a full-out knocking sound, and not a good one.

Checked the oil, it looked full and clean. Started it again, didn't sound good. Texted my Olds specialist/mechanic and he guessed either a rod bearing or the torque converter came loose. Used my CAA membership and got a flatbed tow truck to take it back home. My mom took it well. Long story short, suddenly I had time to finish the wood grain job

Here are some photos. First a couple of my tape job before gluing the longest piece on on Monday. Was worried the glue could get onto places it shouldn't.






Only trouble with the taping idea is the tape can get stuck behind the wood grain, and then you're pulling the wood grain off a little when you remove the tape. It's hard enough to keep pressure on the wood grain piece to get it to stick. I'd suggest removing the tape after you glue but before you apply the wood grain.

Used tape again to hold the wood grain on in some key areas. I'm not sure the thinnest area above the heater control is sticking. Was hard to get any glue on those really thin areas of the dash. Used a toothpick, but even then, not easy.

That was Monday. Today, climbed under the dash again to remove the switches so I could get the switch bezels on. That's sure easier than the first time, although still no fun at all. Of course, had to remove the gauge cluster surround and the fuel gauge yet again so I could reach through that hole to feel my way around. Was terrified I'd lose one of the pal nuts that hold the bezels on, but I didn't! Once the bezels were on, put the switches back on, re-attached the wiring, and voila -- the job I started a month ago is complete!!!!!!!!! Of course, the car is grounded now until my mechanic can take it (sigh).

The final product in poorly lit photos, below. Just want to extend a heart-felt Canadian thank you to Tom. Without your photos and advice, sir, this may not have got done. I'm thrilled with the end result. Dare I say it made me a better man doing it myself Hopefully the next person to try this stumbles upon this thread and finds it helpful.

Bye for now!

Paul

 

Question for the group, did anybody attempt to spray the gauge bezel from a rattle can to restore the chrome look? My bezel is worn and want to spray if i can.

Thanks! Ed

 

I know I didn't, Ed. But I have bought a silver touch-up paint which I'll use to improve those raised edges that surround the lower wood-grain inserts, around the switches and the radio.

Paul

 

I stumbled across this and I'm in the middle of the same thing, feeling fortunate that everyone here is so helpful. I received my OPGI wood grain kit today and am searching for the best kind of adhesive to use and how to go about it. It seems the 3M 08061 emblem adhesive is recommended by OPGI, but I'm not sure how to best apply it since the working time is very short and some of the wood grain is very long. Anyhow, thanks for documenting your adventure, it came out really well. I'm halfway through mine.

 

Glad you found this helpful, Bruizer. Post photos when you're done.

 

I know this is a old thread. I am just now replacing the wood grain on my 71 dash. OH MY GAWD! getting to the screws to remove the wiper switch seems impossible! I did get the 2 on the left out, but I can't even feel the lower one on the right. I gave up for today . I will start again tomorrow. So glad I found this and the other threads regarding this project. My wood grain actually looked fine except for the small enlargement on the radio opening as Paul's car had. Mine was not opened up quite as much as Paul's and If I had known how difficult it is to remove wiper and top switches I may have just left alone- but too late for that now... Any other tips you guys have 5 years later?? Thanks !

 

Almost 6 years later … other tips? Be sure you have your battery disconnected. Have you disconnected the wire harness to the wiper switch? Having it removed will give you better access to the pal nuts holding the switch to the dash. If you can’t “feel” your way around, try using a mirror with lighting on the back of the dash to see. A long socket extension using 1/4” drive socket worked well for me. I don’t recall the size of the pal nuts but you have 2 off already so that shouldn’t be an issue. Have you checked the Chassis Service Manual to see a diagram? Put your phone up there and take images. Last resort: Can you fit under there by moving the seat back and see directly how the switch is attached?

 

Thanks Tom, I looked it up in the svc manual before I even ordered the new trim. So simple... just remove the fuel gauge and reach thru to remove 3 screws- easy peasy!! ....yeah.... I have unplugged the wiring for the wiper switch and actually the 2 screws I removed were the ones that hold switch to panel. I didn't even know about the other pal nuts until finding this thread last night- no mention of them in manual at all. I still need to unplug the top switch. I did use my telescopic mirror and pen light, but then after batteries were going flat I realized it was time to quit and restart tomorrow. Usually better after a break and night's sleep. My appliques on the switches are in good shape lettering is good so I don't plan on replacing them. First thing I did when I started was to remove seat, but now sitting on floor reaching thru gauge holes is just at that spot where it's very uncomfortable- both hands thru fuel gauge hole- snaking thru steering wheel, left holding socket on screw and right operating 1/4" ratchet. I have seen flexible 1/4" extensions like a cable or tube- wonder if that would be the ticket? Thanks for your help!

 

Yes, a flexible 1/4” extension 2” - 3” long can be very helpful in tight quarters. Also, removing the speedometer to allow another access hole through the dash and give your arm and hand a better angle may help as well. The speedo cable disconnects easily. Good luck!

 

Whew- got it! Well at least got it apart, I'm sure getting it back together will be worse. I didn't go back over to car on Tuesday as it was cold and blustery, but Wednesday went over with new enthusiasm and it went pretty well. I didn't take out the speedo as i didn't want to deal with the string/spring dohicky for the shift indicator- I remember that being a PIA. But I was able to roll up sleeves and go in w/ right arm thru clock hole, left arm thru gas gauge hole. Now that I have the switches and plates off I decided to order a new set of stickers, but I am gonna leave the heater A/C controls as-is. Thanks so much for your advice, Tom!



Look carefully and you can see how the original radio opening and trim as opened up slightly back in the day for a aftermarket stereo. Since I've had car original AM was in there. You could barely see the enlargement, but you could if looking closely. I hope replacing just the wood trim will make it look perfect after radio reinstalled- AMFM Stereo this time.

 

Looks good Greg. Take your time removing the old appliqué and applying the new one.