Hello im new here and been searching for the answes with no luck sofar what i have is an edelbrock 1406 600 cfm carb im trying to get plumbed in there seems to be a lot of vacume lines and am not sure what might go where . its for my 72 cutlass 350 4bbl
any help would be great

thanks

 

Very easy. If you are facing the carb: the big port in the middle connects to breather on valve cover. The port on your right is FULL vacuum, the port to your left is PORTED vacuum. If you are running vacuum advance from the distributor, simply choose FULL or PORTED vacuum and put a hose on that port of the carb to the vac adv. on the distributor. Whichever port on the carb you do not use, simply plug it off with a rubber cap (available at auto parts stores like O'Reilly's). Your done.

 

i have theose ones figured out the ones im confused with are the breather lines and the one that comes from the charcole canister

 

There is only one "breather line" as you put it...the big port in the center of the carb. As for the charcoal canister, it does not need to be hooked up at all.

 

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_.../1000/1406.pdf

 

You will notice from the instructions posted that the info I have already given you is exactly correct. Your 1406 Does NOT have the vapor vent so just follow previous info I've posted and you will be set.

 

your trans moduulater line goes to one of the front small ports.and vacuum advance goes to the other small one. the big port in the back center can be used for brake booster or you can plug it off if your booster line goes to the intake. The pcv vent hose does go on the front center (it is the line that comes from the right valve cover as you face the engine. I dont have charcoal lines hooked up at all.
that should be all the lines.

 

Hey don't waste you time with that Eldelbrock carb, there ok but really your 350 would run great with the original carb, rebuilt by an real GM motor head. If you can't fine one where you live email me at tucker4422@verizon.net. I'll hook you up. been a GM A tech for over 35 years and I actually worked in an Olds dealer when that car was new so I have a little experience

 

I like my Edelbrock carb much better than the quadrajet on my 350. Not saying Quadrajets are horrible, but they are too tempermental which translates into hassels -- my Edelbrock runs superbly and has not been a problem for 8 consecutive years.
As to where to hook up your lines, for some reason I have to repeat this, do it as I previously stated . The transmission line (kick down) which was mentioned above does not need to go on the carb, it can go on the intake manifold that has full vacuum. This way, you can run full vacuum to vac. adv. from the carb if you wish to, and not have to run ported vacuum. (I like running full vacuum on my 350 to the vac. adv. just FYI)

 

I believe ported vacuum should go to your vacuum advance. I thought this was the way it was from the factory? It seems to me you wouldn't want any advance at idle. If you ran manifold vacuum to the distributor you would retard your timing when you romp on it...

 

For most stock vehicles, I completely agree.

That being said, I can envision scenarios where a distributor could have a narrowly tailored advance curve for specific cam design and rpm band. Having manifold vacuum to a vacuum advance could allow for higher base timing, rapid mechanical advance, yet help prevent ping under load.

I've never had an engine rompy enough to need or benefit from such a setup, sadly.

 

I am a huge supporter of authenticity BUT my 88 came with the wrong carb (carb fire many years ago?) and we could not get the overhauled quadrajet to run right, nor a 2nd overhauled quadrajet.

I wound up with an Edelbrock 600 on my 75 88 350 and it is beautious

Car runs like a 400 now

My Toro and Custom Cruiser both have original carbs and run great too

But the 88 was a challenge.

Bad thing = 13 mpg but WTFE it runs awesome

 

Q-jets can be tempermental.

 

Factory was MANIFOLD vacuum on many cars for years. This only changed to ported when emissions were a new consideration. As for the timing dropping, total timing is not affected at all by the vacuum advance. Total timing (initial plus mechanical) will remain the same, so there is no loss of power at WOT whatsoever.

 

I'm not sure one way or the other. The only thing I know is that I learned to hook up vacuum advance to ported vacuum so you would get advance when you romp on it (since ported vacuum increases with throttle opening).

 

You can be sure now...there is NO vacuum when you romp on it. If you floor it, vacuum goes to ZERO whether you are using ported vacuum or manifold vacuum. So, "romping" on it makes no difference.

Here's a quote to go by (from another website):For peak engine performance, driveability, idle cooling and efficiency in a street-driven car, you need vacuum advance, connected to full manifold vacuum