Engine painting details (for judging)
Engine painting details (for judging)
Painting my 1970 455 motor this weekend - curious to see if there is a good source of info on what is correct? Things like - should the short water neck hose get painted, should the intake vacuum fitting be natural or painted, what about the choke warm up tube plate?
Last edited by PaulWinn; Feb 13, 2026 at 12:02 PM.
Paul, I don't know answers to your questions, but one thing I found is that if you paint the engine with automotive paint with a paint gun it will last WAY longer than with spray cans. I painted the engine in my Cutlass with automotive acrylic enamel when it was out in 1994 and it still looks good.
Paul, the engine was assembled before it went to the paint station. They selected among rigid pre-made masks to cover the areas that didn't receive paint, such as carb and exhaust manifolds.
If your engine has an aluminum intake manifold, a mask would have covered that. In that case, the thermostat housing and lift strap would not have been painted, except for a bit of overspray--underspray might be a better term. The bypass hose would have some paint on it.
If your engine has an aluminum intake manifold, a mask would have covered that. In that case, the thermostat housing and lift strap would not have been painted, except for a bit of overspray--underspray might be a better term. The bypass hose would have some paint on it.
Last edited by VC455; Apr 1, 2026 at 10:05 AM. Reason: added details to align with PIM
VC… did you mean “…THEN it was painted” instead of “when”
And I know that at least on 65’s the water bypass, oil filter, bell housing always had a good fog of bronze.
Not sure about later years.
And I know that at least on 65’s the water bypass, oil filter, bell housing always had a good fog of bronze.
Not sure about later years.
Where are you getting your paint? I have a '71 455 to paint and am not finding the correct blue. Or I am not looking in the correct places. Many years ago I think I used an Eastwood paint that I really liked but don't see that available anymore. Not trying to hijack the thread, but help is appreciated. Thank you.
also keep in mind when you paint do not paint places where hoses connect. ie. where they connect should be bare cast iron. how do I know? had a lower radiator hose blow off the water pump. paint made it to slippery. not a problem afterwards with clean rust free metal, and just hose with nothing else and good chincing down.. also saw this on an Olds factory display engine that had no paint where the hoses connect..
also keep in mind when you paint do not paint places where hoses connect. ie. where they connect should be bare cast iron. how do I know? had a lower radiator hose blow off the water pump. paint made it to slippery. not a problem afterwards with clean rust free metal, and just hose with nothing else and good chincing down.. also saw this on an Olds factory display engine that had no paint where the hoses connect..
I see this is a paint mark restored car. Working in an automotive factory for 20 years has removed the mystique and romanticism of QA marks off things. My retirement project restorations will not have QA marks as I will be my own QA.
Allow me to tangentize. At my OEM, we have a thing called pokayoke, which is a "did this happen right" check, and have electronic Pokayoke Interface (PI boxes) to electronically tell the line that this happened for this car. Usually, it's good, like
did this car receive 4 correct torques from this gun? Good? Ok then. However, there was a check. It was done by a team member, and to show he did the check, he made a mark with a grease pencil (like the X on the valve cover).
However, since the pencil was not tied to the line, they wanted to keep the pencil on a tray covered by a small light curtain that would have a PI box making sure the team member picked up the pencil and put it back each car.
This was thought to be the cat's *** by non-technical management. I wanted to ask them if the severity of their case of stupid was enough to hurt. Ugh.
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