Hello all,
You have helped me in the past and have another question.
What is the best way to remove the old faded heater/defrost, wiper
and convertible top up/down silver dash appliques and apply
the new ones?
I assume they are glued but don’t want to pry off improperly
and then break something. Has anyone done this well?
On a 1970 Cutlass Supreme Convertible.
Thanks in advance!
Billy

 

I am going to relace the wood grain on my dash very soon. Is that what you are talking about? I looked at my manual and it sez best way to remove wiper and conv top switch is going behind dash thru the fuel gauge hole after removing gas gauge. I think heater controls stay in. I ordered new appliques from H&H. I also got the 3M adhesive they recommend. I am sort of nervous about "gluing " it on -not getting crooked ,etc..

 

Assuming you are talking about the separate metal "label" that has the lettering for those items, yes, those are extremely thin metal pieces that are just glued to the pot metal item. Pry up from the corner with something appropriately thin. I've never replaced just the appliques but would use a contact cement. Needs to be applied in an extremely thin layer. The good thing is since they're metal you don't need perfect coverage.
The wood grain trim is much more exciting because getting good adhesion can be a challenge, especially at the edges and the thin parts where it goes around the steering column and the heater control.

 

The dash appliques have a "peel and stick" backing already on them.....no need for contact cement, etc.

 

Thanks Patton,
So how do you suggest removing the original thin metal appliqués for the heater/defrost and convertible top up down?
How do you remove the ***** for them so you can remove those faded metal pieces? I have not done this before and
my experience usually ends up in breaking something!
Thanks,
Billy

 

Easiest to do w/the switch and control panels off the car where you can place them horizontally. As you know, they're in a vertical position when installed in the dash.

On a bench you could "flood" the faceplates w/some adhesive remover like 3M has (or something like Goo Gone). This takes TIME...none of these solvents will instantly release the glue on the back of the old appliques. Better done in warm temps as well as cold temps will really hinder the solvent from working.

You can use a pick or something sharp to get under a corner of the appliques to allow the solvent the get in there and start loosening the old adhesive. Or a razor scraper or something similar.

To remove the ***** you need to look at the underside of each **** and you'll see a allen key nuts holding them on....maybe a 1/16 allen key....can't remember 100%. Of course there isn't a **** on the "TOP" switch so no allen key removal needed there.

The "WASHER" **** and the fan speed **** allen keys are on the SIDE of the ****....not the underside.

Doing this IN THE CAR???? More of a challenge since you can't really use adhesive remover as it will run down and might affect things like the bright finish on the two raised ridges that surround your lower dash woodgrain.

You could try heating up the old appliques to soften the adhesive and that might provide an easier edge to grab and "peel" them off. I've only done this on parts that were removed from the dash so much easier.

The bezels that the appliques are glued to are chromed diecast metal so that is a fairly tough surface.....less risk of hurting those unless you really slip and gouge a metal tool against the chrome. Go easy on the effort and then ramp it up if things are really stubborn.

I really think a hair dryer will help if you're not able to use an adhesive remover. Of course don't get things super hot as you don't want to risk messing up the woodgrain on the dash (if it has that), etc.

The original appliques ARE NOT a "peel and stick" setup....they just used swipes of some sort of contact cement before applying the appliques and the old glue can be real stubborn.

Don't expect this to be a quick 5 minute operation....even if doing this on a bench w/adhesive removers....they work very slowly.

After removal you'll probably want to clean the old glue residue off the chrome surfaces....solvent on some sort of tightly held towel and some scraping as the glue gets looser. That's gonna take a bit of time itself if you want them thoroughly clean.

Once the appliques are removed you can do any cleanup/polishing work on the chrome....don't wait until after applying the new appliques as you don't want any chrome polish, 0000 steel wool, etc around the new appliques. Toothpicks and some chrome polish can help get down into the narrow channels on the chrome bezels for cleaning/shining.

TEST FIT the appliques dry....just in case something was cut wrong, etc. Unlikely....but why not.

The new appliques may also have a clear plastic protective layer on them....remove whenever or at least lift a corner on the layer prior to installing so there will be something easy to grab onto for removal once installed.

 

Hello. Recently did same in a 72. I don’t have a convertible button though.

Begin by removing the ***** by loosening a very small hex screw that is on the passenger side of the washer/defrost/fan **** and underside of ac/heat *****. You can actually see the small hole if you look carefully. Once loosened they will slide right off the accompanying mechanism. This will allow you access to next remove the appliqué. Be gentle while you get an edge on the old faceplate using something softer than the underlying pot metal chrome like plastic trim tools or fishing line or floss and once you achieved that entry point you can either remove underlying adhesive by advancing underneath with a plastic trim tool of appropriate size which when gently slid between the appliqué and unit will break the adhesive bond (but be warned will probably likely also bend and ruin the old appliqué you will be discarding anyway. I suppose if you wanted to remove it unharmed you could use the floss the whole way but it tends to break often and is time consuming.) The underlying pot metal is pretty durable in my experience and was left unharmed using my technique. Next I cleaned the face with alcohol and applied the new faceplate as provided with the 3M adhesive backing already on the product. If you look and handle the new appliqué you bought you will get a clear idea of what you are removing to replace and it should make sense .