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Adding a "pre-filter" before the fuel pump is a good idea and you should absolutely pull the distributor and prime the oil pump after changing the oil/ filter before cranking it over. Pulling the plugs and putting a little marvel mystery oil in each cylinder would be a good idea even if it does turn over by hand (easier said than done for cylinder #8 on a BBO A/C car). It would be a good idea to put on a mechanical oil pressure gauge (even if the car has a rally pack) to see what the oil pressure is while priming the pump and initial start up. The only other suggestion I might add would be to maybe pull the valve covers and look to see that none of the valves are stuck while you crack it (coil disconnected & after priming the oil pump).

 

Definitely pull the plugs and liberally spray your lubricant of choice into each cylinder. Assuming it turns by hand, I'd either pull the distributor and prime the oil pump or crank the engine with the plugs out until you get oil pressure. Once you're satisfied that the engine is loose, reassemble, set the timing while cranking, and try to fire it with starter fluid first. The advantage is that starter fluid won't wash the oil off the cylinder walls on a cold start the way gasoline can. You might want to fill the carb float bowl through the vent before starting also. Expect the carb to need a rebuild once it is running. Watch for gasoline leaks through a stuck needle or bad gaskets or a cracked fuel hose. Have an extinguisher handy.

 

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That's less critical. You're not going to run it to max temperature on the first start. Heck, I've run engines for a minute or so without a radiator. You're not going to hurt a cast iron motor doing that. If you are unsure about the condition of the coolant, I'd get it running then use a cooling system cleaner before putting in fresh coolant.

 

Agree with the comment above about pulling the valve covers and making sure the valves all open and close. If one is stuck sometimes you can smack it with a mallet and get it to turn loose in the guide. Coolant. If you’re not sure about springing a leak or don’t want water leaking on your shop or garage floor I have dry run an engine for a short time without water. Like 20-30 secs. Doesn’t hurt anything and could save a mess.

 

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All you can tell from that is that the distributor has been out and re-stabbed at some point. That doesn't tell you anything about the timing. In any case, if you plan to pull the distributor, now's the time to prime the oil pump. I personally use since there's no socket to worry about coming off the extension. Expect the oil pump drive shaft to come out with the distributor. Unfortunately like everything else, it's gone up from $8 when I bought it to $12 now. FYI, that disk won't fit the Olds block. You don't need it, so don't worry about it.

 

Check your battery cables and ground connections.

 

I would add Marvel Mystery oil when you do the oil change, add some to your gas also. If you decide to remove the valve covers I would check the oil drain back holes in the heads. Roll it outside on initial startup and as others have stated have a fire extinguisher ready. Good luck.

Don W

 

Mine hung up when cranking when I first bought it. Timing was too advanced. I've set initial timing to get a car started w/ engine at TDC like you said. Then turned dist. til points just open. It's good enough to start it. Will be somewhat retarded. You're missing a hot air pipe for the choke system.

 

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The easiest way is to hold your thumb over the #1 spark plug hole while someone bumps the starter. You'll feel compression. Then rotate the balancer to align the timing marks. No, this isn't foolproof but it gets you close enough. When alone, I've also successfully used a wadded up piece of paper towel in the spark plug hole. When it gets blown out, you're close. Also keep in mind that you can use a timing light even when the engine is cranking; it doesn't need to be running. I also leave the distributor bolt only snug so I can rotate the distributor once the engine is running to fine tune the timing.

 

Did you sniff test the gas tank?

Don't discard the old ignition parts if they inspect ok. Chances are really good that stuff is USA-made? Chances are 100% the new parts are not.

I'd clean up a good cap rotor point set before tossing them in favor of offshore junk. At minimum hang on to the parts for spares when the chineasium junk quits at 100 miles.

If you replace major components, water pump, starter, alternator, master cylinder etc... make sure they are not original components of the car before exchanging them for cores. Don't turn them in for cores rather have them rebuilt.

Attached may be helpful

 

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You may want to run it off a red tank for a bit if the lines are questionable and have the fuel pump pump to a bottle to clean it out.

Rapping the carb air horn with a plastic screwdriver handle can unstick stuck floats.

I don't know if disconnecting the belt train is necessary, they all turn over pretty easily if working.

When you drain the engine of the overfilled oil, I would let it drain overnight. That thing may smoke like a son of a bitch for a while, no need to make it worse.

 

Besides making sure the engine turns over by hand, also check that the accessories (especially the alternator) spin freely.

 

X2 on the fuel line. It might flow a little at first, but as fresh fuel comes in contact with the goo in the lines it might quickly F/U your fuel pump and filter.

if you do add coolant, check all your clamps for tightness and hoses for holes/cracks including heater and bypass.

Have a fire extinguisher close by.

Make sure positive cable isnt resting on a exhaust manifold somewhere.

Good Luck!

 

I once bought a little Spitfire, w/ 4 cyl 1500 engine. It wouldn't fire. Had been sitting for 10 years. Good fuel via a funnel to carb. BE CAREFULL. Timing set at TDC, & had spark. Kept coughing. Finally found a mouse nest in the exhaust. Cherry bomb old muffler, straight shot in to front of car. Pulled it out w/ a coat hanger wire. Started right up. Should not be an issue w/ duals, but stranger things happen.

 

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Awesome! Great step forward. Obviously some tuning and tweaking needed to smoothen it out and confirm oil pressure, make sure all cylinders are firing, etc.