I'm about to start the install of the Vintage air Gen 5 kit on my 69 Cutlass S convertible non A/C car. Any tips I should know?

 

Some things I found most helpful for the under-dash box install was to gut the front interior - i.e. seating, console (if equipped), remove gauge pods and radio and then try to run and measure out your new air vent hoses ahead of time for fitment behind the vents, to ease their final install onto the box.

If you have a factory radio and/or center dash speaker, they may have to go due to clearance issues - that was VA's instruction to me for the '72 model I have when mine went in back around 2018 - (though I didn't have either at that point in time, so no issues for me).

 

thank you, looks like it's gonna be very labor intensive for sure.

I've been wanting to better organize everything behind my dash anyway. Now looks like a good time to do it

 

Depending on your budget and preferences, having everything generally out from under the dash makes it very opportune to replace the original dash harness and any associated OEM sub-harness attachments (such as courtesy lights, console extension, etc.) where applicable. Repro harnesses are readily available for plug and play reinstall (somewhat pricey but great insurance against aging wires with potentially unknown gremlins waiting to surface).

When I had my dash all apart, that's exactly what I did - it was a simple replacement effort at that point because everything else was out anyway. It's really the best opportunity you'll ever have to do it if the car is a keeper.

 

Does the new system require the coolant cut-off valve on the intake for the heater core? If it's already there, does it work or leak?

Is this under dash or integrated into it? If integrated that will require an A/C dash pad with the vents, ducts and the control head. Does the control head use vacuum, servos, or cables?

Keep all dirt and debris out of the refrigerant lines. Keep the factory caps on the lines and condenser until you are ready to evacuate/charge the system.
Install the dryer just before you are ready to evacuate. The dryer can absorb a schzit ton of moisture in a short time.

Do not over-torque the refrigerant lines.

What's the condition of the radiator? 2-3 or 4 core? If questionable, get it re-cored now. Flush the cooling system, including the heater core. If the core is at all looking corroded nows the time to replace it. Install a 192-195° tstat.

Clutch fan... if already there... condition??? If not there consider investing in one. Fan shroud and core support seals present and accounted for?

Remove the hood and right fender. Makes messing with the HVAC area much more accessible. At a minimum, the inner plastic fender well. And of course, the interior as mentioned.

Make sure the blend door seals nicely.

 

OP stated he has a non-a/c car so that will be less challenging under the hood to deal with but you raise several good additional points in any case with regard to associated accessory equipment assessments. I would go so far as to recommend installing an aluminum radiator along with factory shroud and a good fan/clutch combo setup (as opposed to electric fans) - Here in FL, that basic setup keeps my engine temps under 200* even in summer heat.

The VA systems are electronic and essentially fully incorporated within the under-dash box - no vacuum or mechanical cable requirements for control operation - a HUGE plus in general.

My '72 was a factory a/c car so for me, being able to eliminate the OEM under-hood evap core was a great benefit, now being able to fully access the right side of the motor from topside.

 

I have a 1969 cutlass convertible. It was a factory ac car. I put in VA while I was restoring it so front seats were out (helps), front fenders and hood were also off (helps). My system installed on the passenger side under the hood. I think yours is on the driver's side not sure what difference this makes. I believe I saw some comments on bracket clearances (search the site). In general, the instructions were good. Working under the dash is not fun. You have a lot of hoses. The only issue I had was I had the heater hoses swapped and had to rework (not fun). Have not used it much yet but works well. Enjoying the top down.

 

VA system is pretty well engineered - mine has been working properly since install back in 2018, though I did have to replace the core-mounted pressure switch last year.

Probably helps that my car only accumulates about 3k miles per year but even between extended ride uses, I try to periodically run the a/c for at least 10 minutes several times per year to keep ensure some refrigerant circulation activity.

 

Vintage air system is very compact. You should have no issues with the radio.

 

The only notable hurdle I hit was just dealing with the tubes. Getting them to fit tightly onto the adapters and distribution box and also actually staying on their attachment points was hilariously difficult. Spend some time messing with small cuts, zip ties, etc. You definitely do not want a hose falling off after the dash is reassembled.