So my starter is going bad. I usually need to prime my carb before I can start the car in the morning, and then throughout the day its hit or miss. Sometimes cranks good, sometimes drags, but still starts. Also can get an occasional slow tired crank. Bottom line its either the starter or starter solenoid. My dilemma is I have a Delco Remy remanufactured starter that looks good (see PIC's) I want to keep the car as original as possible with concours parts, but with a car this old and parts getting harder to find I typically end up with crappy rebuilt or remanufactured parts from my local auto parts store. So I am wondering thoughts of rebuilding this starter. I haven't rebuilt a starter since I was 15 years old, Also I don't know what my rebuild parts options are available. I haven't found a good source for a Delco Remy either but im sure that they aren't cheap. Anyone want to chime in with their restoration tips, ideas or suggestions for my starter repair or replacement?

 

I bought a Delco Remy starter for a '71 Supreme that I used to own from Rock Auto 3 years ago, less than 100 bucks shipped.

 

No kidding, I never shopped there before, did they require a core charge?

 

Yes, but minimal. Right now I can buy their most expensive Remy unit for eighty bucks shipped. ( If I still had a '71).

 

Just contact Stellar on this board. He is likely to have whatever original Delco Remy rebuild parts you need, or can furnish you with a top-quality rebuilt unit.

- Eric

 

If you have rebuilt one before, you can probably do it again. A lot of the parts can be found at your local parts store, but if you need anything I can help. Thanks Eric.

 

You're welcome.

He's got a nice original car. No sense sending him chasing after low-grade Chinese crap.

- Eric

 

Why would you think that re-man Remy are Chinese? My Remy for my '71 gave me zero trouble.

 

When did you buy it?

Most parts of this type are made in China now, some in Mexico.
Check out the boxes at your local parts store.

- Eric

 

I don't think that is what he meant. Chances are good they are reman from Mexico and possibly with Chinese parts. Not that it is a bad thing. Things aren't like they used to be.

 

If you have NOS parts or old parts in good condition, compare them to the ones you can get new today.
In almost every case, they will be made of less material, thinner, lighter, with poorer workmanship and finish quality.

They will also generally not last as long as the originals, which have often gone 50 years and 100,000 hard miles.

- Eric

 

X2
I am so sick of the new parts coming out of the parts stores.

 

Thanks Eric,
I knew I came to the right place to ask this question. I'm glad to hear there's a registered user on this board selling quality OEM replacement parts. I will definitely keep Stellar in mind when ordering parts from now on.
Dan

 

I had a local-ish guy rebuild one for my car recently after finding the correct number starter on epay. He did a great job, and for a little extra he used USA parts such as the solenoid. I have not used it yet, but it sure looks great.

A search here will probably find his contact info.

 

Google Alternator/Starter rebuild houses in your area.
When/if you find one tell them USA parts only. Have them bench test it. Mark your starter somehow so you can be sure you get it back. HD fleet truck shops may help too. Do everyone including yourself a favor and steer clear of chineasium. Always save the original parts. Even if they want a core back pay the core charge.
How sure are you that the starters bad? Could be the solenoid and or the cables especially if the cables are original. Do a voltage drop test before disconnecting anything so you can compare. Ohm out the cables. Pull the starter & sol apart. Could just need a clean and re-grease. Flip the contact washer over in the solenoid to the unused side. Clean its contacts to a smooth finish as they are likely pitted & burnt. Clean all the electrical connections and spray ignition sealer on said cleaned connections(not internal connections). Also make sure the nose to block surface is clean thats where it gets its ground. If it has the block to starter body strap bracket clean both ends of that too. A lot of guys miss both of these. Anything you can do to reduce resistance will help that circuit operate more efficiently. Old cables can have higher resistance yet look clean. You could be good to go after a good cleaning & greasing?
Follow up on your post when you fix it.

 

Some aftermarket parts are equal to or superior to OE parts no matter where they are made. Some aren't, so country of origin isn't always a good indicator of quality even in the good old USA. A lot of Delco parts are manufactured in other countries. The solenoids for these starters weather made in the US or elsewhere can have a big difference in quality. Some will have 132 windings and some will have 100 windings. I use the good ones USA made or the (older) Delco reworked. I say older, because Delco cheapened up the solenoids in the mid 70's and had problems. That is why they went to the shorter return spring between the solenoid and the plunger. The bigger stronger spring combined with the weaker solenoid contributed to what is known as a hot start problem. I have had some people disagree with me about the shorter spring helping to overcome the hot start problem, but I can't understand how they think to colapse a stronger spring would require less energy. They also think heat has no effect on an electro magnet. I disagree.

 

About 4 years ago. I am also glad that we have someone on this site that we can get those parts from.

 

The one I replaced with the Rock Auto starter, I had rebuilt by a local guy that I have know for over 30 years, it is his business, but it only lasted 2 years. I thought about taking it back to him, but was pissed that it failed so soon after about 3000 miles, so I went to Rock Auto.

 

Eric, you are right about materials and their quality, with that car I bought an Echlin rotor that the plastic was so thin that you could almost see through it, and rather than having the contact riveted on, they heated up the contact and melted it into the rotor. I didn't use it.

 

I will definitely heed your advice, I had to get the QuadraJet rebuilt, and like you said, took detailed PIC's before it got dropped off, with details of serial numbers, markings, etc. So good advice. I will look at it myself first before I go and replace or repair it. Then decide from there what action to take.
Thanks

 

Stellar has good advice regarding the solenoids. I have had good luck installing the HD (1 ton truck) solenoids along with the short spring and a mini heat shield. The last rebuild went 25 years like this. The keep for the pinion gear let go and forced the whole works back into the flywheel about 4 years ago. Took the flywheel with it too. Couldn't shut the car off. The starter was spinning with the engine...scary. Now I run a marine grade ($40) disconnect from NAPA on the neg post. I think its a Packard or Echlin part if memory serves. Steer clear of the cheapos.