Starter Rebuild or buy Remanufactured?
#1
Starter Rebuild or buy Remanufactured?
So my starter is going bad. I usually need to prime my carb before I can start the car in the morning, and then throughout the day its hit or miss. Sometimes cranks good, sometimes drags, but still starts. Also can get an occasional slow tired crank. Bottom line its either the starter or starter solenoid. My dilemma is I have a Delco Remy remanufactured starter that looks good (see PIC's) I want to keep the car as original as possible with concours parts, but with a car this old and parts getting harder to find I typically end up with crappy rebuilt or remanufactured parts from my local auto parts store. So I am wondering thoughts of rebuilding this starter. I haven't rebuilt a starter since I was 15 years old, Also I don't know what my rebuild parts options are available. I haven't found a good source for a Delco Remy either but im sure that they aren't cheap. Anyone want to chime in with their restoration tips, ideas or suggestions for my starter repair or replacement?
#3
#11
If you have NOS parts or old parts in good condition, compare them to the ones you can get new today.
In almost every case, they will be made of less material, thinner, lighter, with poorer workmanship and finish quality.
They will also generally not last as long as the originals, which have often gone 50 years and 100,000 hard miles.
- Eric
In almost every case, they will be made of less material, thinner, lighter, with poorer workmanship and finish quality.
They will also generally not last as long as the originals, which have often gone 50 years and 100,000 hard miles.
- Eric
#12
If you have NOS parts or old parts in good condition, compare them to the ones you can get new today.
In almost every case, they will be made of less material, thinner, lighter, with poorer workmanship and finish quality.
They will also generally not last as long as the originals, which have often gone 50 years and 100,000 hard miles.
- Eric
In almost every case, they will be made of less material, thinner, lighter, with poorer workmanship and finish quality.
They will also generally not last as long as the originals, which have often gone 50 years and 100,000 hard miles.
- Eric
I am so sick of the new parts coming out of the parts stores.
#13
Thanks Eric,
I knew I came to the right place to ask this question. I'm glad to hear there's a registered user on this board selling quality OEM replacement parts. I will definitely keep Stellar in mind when ordering parts from now on.
Dan
I knew I came to the right place to ask this question. I'm glad to hear there's a registered user on this board selling quality OEM replacement parts. I will definitely keep Stellar in mind when ordering parts from now on.
Dan
#14
I had a local-ish guy rebuild one for my car recently after finding the correct number starter on epay. He did a great job, and for a little extra he used USA parts such as the solenoid. I have not used it yet, but it sure looks great.
A search here will probably find his contact info.
A search here will probably find his contact info.
#15
Google Alternator/Starter rebuild houses in your area.
When/if you find one tell them USA parts only. Have them bench test it. Mark your starter somehow so you can be sure you get it back. HD fleet truck shops may help too. Do everyone including yourself a favor and steer clear of chineasium. Always save the original parts. Even if they want a core back pay the core charge.
How sure are you that the starters bad? Could be the solenoid and or the cables especially if the cables are original. Do a voltage drop test before disconnecting anything so you can compare. Ohm out the cables. Pull the starter & sol apart. Could just need a clean and re-grease. Flip the contact washer over in the solenoid to the unused side. Clean its contacts to a smooth finish as they are likely pitted & burnt. Clean all the electrical connections and spray ignition sealer on said cleaned connections(not internal connections). Also make sure the nose to block surface is clean thats where it gets its ground. If it has the block to starter body strap bracket clean both ends of that too. A lot of guys miss both of these. Anything you can do to reduce resistance will help that circuit operate more efficiently. Old cables can have higher resistance yet look clean. You could be good to go after a good cleaning & greasing?
Follow up on your post when you fix it.
When/if you find one tell them USA parts only. Have them bench test it. Mark your starter somehow so you can be sure you get it back. HD fleet truck shops may help too. Do everyone including yourself a favor and steer clear of chineasium. Always save the original parts. Even if they want a core back pay the core charge.
How sure are you that the starters bad? Could be the solenoid and or the cables especially if the cables are original. Do a voltage drop test before disconnecting anything so you can compare. Ohm out the cables. Pull the starter & sol apart. Could just need a clean and re-grease. Flip the contact washer over in the solenoid to the unused side. Clean its contacts to a smooth finish as they are likely pitted & burnt. Clean all the electrical connections and spray ignition sealer on said cleaned connections(not internal connections). Also make sure the nose to block surface is clean thats where it gets its ground. If it has the block to starter body strap bracket clean both ends of that too. A lot of guys miss both of these. Anything you can do to reduce resistance will help that circuit operate more efficiently. Old cables can have higher resistance yet look clean. You could be good to go after a good cleaning & greasing?
Follow up on your post when you fix it.
#16
Some aftermarket parts are equal to or superior to OE parts no matter where they are made. Some aren't, so country of origin isn't always a good indicator of quality even in the good old USA. A lot of Delco parts are manufactured in other countries. The solenoids for these starters weather made in the US or elsewhere can have a big difference in quality. Some will have 132 windings and some will have 100 windings. I use the good ones USA made or the (older) Delco reworked. I say older, because Delco cheapened up the solenoids in the mid 70's and had problems. That is why they went to the shorter return spring between the solenoid and the plunger. The bigger stronger spring combined with the weaker solenoid contributed to what is known as a hot start problem. I have had some people disagree with me about the shorter spring helping to overcome the hot start problem, but I can't understand how they think to colapse a stronger spring would require less energy. They also think heat has no effect on an electro magnet. I disagree.
#18
Google Alternator/Starter rebuild houses in your area.
#19
Eric, you are right about materials and their quality, with that car I bought an Echlin rotor that the plastic was so thin that you could almost see through it, and rather than having the contact riveted on, they heated up the contact and melted it into the rotor. I didn't use it.
#20
Google Alternator/Starter rebuild houses in your area.
When/if you find one tell them USA parts only. Have them bench test it. Mark your starter somehow so you can be sure you get it back. HD fleet truck shops may help too. Do everyone including yourself a favor and steer clear of chineasium. Always save the original parts. Even if they want a core back pay the core charge.
How sure are you that the starters bad? Could be the solenoid and or the cables especially if the cables are original. Do a voltage drop test before disconnecting anything so you can compare. Ohm out the cables. Pull the starter & sol apart. Could just need a clean and re-grease. Flip the contact washer over in the solenoid to the unused side. Clean its contacts to a smooth finish as they are likely pitted & burnt. Clean all the electrical connections and spray ignition sealer on said cleaned connections(not internal connections). Also make sure the nose to block surface is clean thats where it gets its ground. If it has the block to starter body strap bracket clean both ends of that too. A lot of guys miss both of these. Anything you can do to reduce resistance will help that circuit operate more efficiently. Old cables can have higher resistance yet look clean. You could be good to go after a good cleaning & greasing?
Follow up on your post when you fix it.
When/if you find one tell them USA parts only. Have them bench test it. Mark your starter somehow so you can be sure you get it back. HD fleet truck shops may help too. Do everyone including yourself a favor and steer clear of chineasium. Always save the original parts. Even if they want a core back pay the core charge.
How sure are you that the starters bad? Could be the solenoid and or the cables especially if the cables are original. Do a voltage drop test before disconnecting anything so you can compare. Ohm out the cables. Pull the starter & sol apart. Could just need a clean and re-grease. Flip the contact washer over in the solenoid to the unused side. Clean its contacts to a smooth finish as they are likely pitted & burnt. Clean all the electrical connections and spray ignition sealer on said cleaned connections(not internal connections). Also make sure the nose to block surface is clean thats where it gets its ground. If it has the block to starter body strap bracket clean both ends of that too. A lot of guys miss both of these. Anything you can do to reduce resistance will help that circuit operate more efficiently. Old cables can have higher resistance yet look clean. You could be good to go after a good cleaning & greasing?
Follow up on your post when you fix it.
Thanks
#21
Stellar has good advice regarding the solenoids. I have had good luck installing the HD (1 ton truck) solenoids along with the short spring and a mini heat shield. The last rebuild went 25 years like this. The keep for the pinion gear let go and forced the whole works back into the flywheel about 4 years ago. Took the flywheel with it too. Couldn't shut the car off. The starter was spinning with the engine...scary. Now I run a marine grade ($40) disconnect from NAPA on the neg post. I think its a Packard or Echlin part if memory serves. Steer clear of the cheapos.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
superbee_68
Parts For Sale
18
July 7th, 2013 09:04 PM
mashbaugh
General Discussion
7
September 17th, 2012 08:40 AM
BerBer5985
Small Blocks
2
August 12th, 2009 10:29 AM