Here's what the coolant looks like:

 

Has this engine ever had the timing chain changed?

 

Throw the points away, put a pertronics igniniter in it, change the thermostat, to a 180, lower the idle down, run premium

 

What's the timing set? I replaced the coil, points/condenser (uniset), cap, rotor, wires, and plugs. 180 degree thermostat is also new as well as water pump, radiator, and fan clutch. Shroud is in place, no obstructions, even the hoses are new.

 

Timing Chain...

 

Ah. I'm only sure it hasn't been changed since I've had it (6 months). Prior to that, I have no idea. Car shows 97,800 on the odometer.

 

I have the carb that the OP mentioned on my Vista Cruiser. I CONSTANTLY have problems with f/a screws, but it runs fine as long as I remember to adjust them when the temp or humidity changes or when there's a blue moon or whatever. Point is... they get out of adjustment sometimes.

Initially, your stutter on acceleration sounded like one I fixed on my car, and it was totally due to the floats not being adjusted properly. Upon my car bogging out the other day and noticing that fuel was dripping into the jets with the engine off, I knew one of the floats was stuck, but I believe I was able to get it with a BFH, but I'm smelling fuel on startup, so I believe the float might be out of adjustment again.

My point is, I think your stuttering problem is with the floats and you can find how to adjust them properly on edelbrock's site.

 

Doh! Not sure where I got timing "set"...

 

That is VERY good to know since I have the carb calibration kit and rebuild kit sitting unopened in my tool box.... I also smell fuel on startup like you said.

I have been procrastinating on opening the carb, but now I feel like I really need to figure out this misfiring before doing that. It's bad, when I had my timing light on it yesterday it wasn't firing at all for a few seconds at a time at any engine speed above idle

 

From my post below, I edited the timing set reference to chain because I thought it might be confusing... Sorry

 

Guys, here's a link to my vacuum reading, would be curious to know what you guys see

 

18-20" vacuum is what my factory 1970 350-4bl engine was getting at idle, so that looks typical to me.

Can you verify the timing light operation on a different engine to ensure it is working correctly?

 

I think that looks pretty typical. If you REALLY wanted to read too much into that, I reckon you could chalk some of that deviation to slightly worn valve seats as indicated in scenario 7 in that animation on the other page, but that reading right there isn't bad at all.

 

That slight deviation is not a real concern. It possibly can be eliminated with some fine tweaking.

 

cool, thanks guys. The timing light is definitely good. The thing is missing so badly that it is violent when the engine shakes from it. It won't go over 25-30mph right now. I'd love some ideas on what I could do next to try to isolate the issue.

I could just replace the distributor and put in a Pertronix but I've been just throwing money at both the overheating and timing and nothing has worked yet.

Is it possible that there's a problem with the worm gear on the distributor? I am able to set the timing, and it idles ok, it just won't go higher than idle.

 

No the distributor gears generally don't wear on stock setups. Can you post a video of it slowly reving? Your idle rpm is not fluctuating, and it sounds ok. What are your current dwell and timing settings? Have you thrown a kit in the carb? Did you install a new fuel filter? Have you replaced the condenser?

 

the vacuum video was shot about a month before the timing went haywire, which was last weekend. I have not had a chance to get into the carb or address the fuel filter. Dwell is 30, timing is 12 BTDC, the condenser was replaced a few months ago (uniset). Last Sunday when I checked the timing the dwell was steady throughout the RPM range.

Posting a vid is a good idea, I'll try to do that today. I want to go open the dist cap and have look in there anyway.

 

Here are the videos:

Before startup:
First run:
Second run, you can see the timing light stop :
I verified the issue isn't with the timing light, I have an inline spark tester and saw the same thing happen with it

 

Check the wire that runs from your distributor to the coil -. There is also a wire inside the distributor that runs to the advance plate.

 

I thought about that, but I can't see them very well. Is it hard to pull the distributor? I was thinking this whole process might be much easier with it out.

A funny thing about all this, when I was setting the dwell, I kept getting shocked when I'd touch the little window door. Today when I went to pull the #1 wire and put my spark tester on it, I did so with the car running and it shocked me good. When the wire was disconnected I started hearing a clicking like something was grounding out but didn't see anything. Makes me wonder if the spark is jumping all around inside the cap.

 

Well pulling a wire with the engine running will most often lead to getting shocked. To remove the distributor remove the cap and roll it over the carb with the wired still connected. Set the engine on #1 tdc, note the rotor is pointing to #1 wire tower on the cap. Remove the bolt and clamp at the base, disconnect the wire from the coil - post on the coil, unplug the vacuum line to the advance, and pull it out. It may fight you depending on how long its been since it was pulled the last time.

 

Well guys, a little good news, pretty sure I found both my running hot problem and my ignition problem, check this out:



See the problem? That severed wire explains why I was getting shocked when I was setting the dwell. The other problem you can't see is that the vacuum advance is rusted into place, it definitely wasn't advancing the ignition. So, tomorrow I'll order a replacement distributor (electronic this time), we'll see if that fixes both issues.

 

It also looks like your points may not be seated correctly on the mounting stub. That distributor can be cleaned up and repaired, I would not use it as a core return.

 

If you go HEI the mail order houses offer a brand called DUI. 52K volt. Install an adjustable travel (not rate) vacuum can. Get the low resistance (low Ohm) center carbon button that rides in the center of the cap under the coil, (may already be in there?). Buy a back up module for the glove box along with the silicone insulating paste. I like Taylor spiral core 8mm wires. Oh and if you do go HEI remember to run a new "keyed" 12 volt, 12 gauge stranded wire directly out of the fuse distribution panel. Tuck the OEM resistor wire from the points system back into the loom and tape or shrink tube the end. Keep all original parts. Use high quality shrink tube weather tight butt connectors to hook up to the HEI terminals. NAPA, United, Federated etc... sells the good heat shrink connectors.
Once you get it running then tweak the vac and centrifugal advance to the cars liking. The ball park is....12-14* base timing at curb idle with the vac advance plugged off. Then another 8-12* at curb idle from the vac advance for around 20-22* at curb idle. Plug the vac can into full intake vacuum. So the advance can brings in 8-10 degrees added to the base. The rest or total is brought in at about 2700-3000 for a grand total of 36-40* all in at 2700-3000 RPMs. You may need to play with the springs and stops in the centrifugal advance. Dont be afraid to use two different springs to dial in that setting. This setting is for sea level with decent air and decent gas 93 or better ethanol free. If you up higher then say 1500-2000 ft above sea level you'll need to back off a bit on the base and total. Dont forget to play with the carb A/F while your making timing adjustments they go hand in hand. Use a vac gauge.
If you decide to go with the points the settings are the same except you will have a dwell setting of 30*
Verify you have a good ground path to and from the engine block to the battery. Or it will take out the HEI module

 

I was thinking about getting one of these:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-850006

Thanks for all the tips, droldsmorland. I didn't anticipate having to run a wire to the fuse panel, never done that before.

Eric, the uniset is in there funny, but I couldn't set the gap and dwell any other way. If I put it in place the points wouldn't close. I did disassemble the distributor last night and I know I could rebuild it, but I am really, really tired of fooling with that damn thing all the way in the back of the dang engine bay, so I think I am just going to go solid state.

Is a non-HEI electronic ignition an option? Would save me from having to get new plug wires (again). I could also just put in one of these:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...ake/oldsmobile

But I'd still need to replace the vacuum advance canister.

 

I don't understand why you had to mount the points that way. I would replace/repair the broken wire. Get a set of points and separate condensor, blue streak brand and go from there. You won't realize any real change from going to that points replacement other than not having to change points.

 

Well, it's hard to explain but the side you can't see has a slot that is oriented in such a way that it had to go in first and creates a point which the set pivots around. The side you can see slides in and out so you can get it close enough to the cam that only the lobes will strike it. If I moved it in any closer the gap was too large.

You might be right. I guess now that the distributor is out it would be much easier to install the new points and condenser and get it gapped and all. I suppose I can get a replacement vacuum canister? I'd live to avoid spending another couple hundred bucks on a distributor and wires. I'd need to replace the internal ground wire and the wire to the coil also, but that would be easy enough.

 

Well guys, one $80 remanufactured distributor later and my problems are solved. It's not running hot and it starts and runs beautifully! Now I have full spark and proper advance which solved my running temperature issue and the off idle hesitation.

Thanks for all your help!!!

 

Glad its fixed, now you can enjoy.

 

I'm going to sticky this thread. I remembered the link TripDeuces provided in post #3 and was able to find it again with a quick site search. AWESOME!

 

It was an interesting thread.

 

Well if it's going to stick around then I should add the final chapter

I was really proud of myself for dropping that Cardone distributor in and nailing it the first try, getting the distributor cap on properly was harder than replacing the distributor itself!

Just afterward I saw a thread somewhere about distributors and the distributor guru guy was saying what crap the Cardone distributors are and I started to disagree since the one I bought looked and felt like good quality. But, in a rare moment of self-control, I thought, "well, I have only had the thing for a few days. Just because it looks good and feels good doesn't mean it is good" while remembering my last girlfriend...

Sure enough, I didn't put 100 miles on the car before it just quit on the way into work one morning. After $700 in diagnostics, I found out that the condenser was fried already! Somehow my almost brand new Accel coil was toast also. Anyway, I kept thinking that Eric had said to get a Blue Streak brand points and condenser.

Now I can vouch, that is good advice!

John

 

Blue Streak, not Blue Line. I spent a lotta years behind an auto parts counter.

 

edited, thanks.

 

I had gotten a bad condenser with a Cardone rebuilt in the past also. $700 to diagnose a bad condenser?

 

Yes, and the coil was bad, which was also new, an Accel coil. They said that the issues were transient and took a while to identify. I think really they just wanted me to go away and not come back

 

Wow, well at least your well versed on ignition issues now.

 

The Accel coils are usually decent. As said the Blue Streak was always Standard Ignition's high quality line. Very few know anything about points anymore. I haven't touched a set in nearly 20 years.