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Power top switch replacement

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Old Nov 13, 2016 | 09:56 AM
  #1  
mownhoj's Avatar
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From: Alexandria, VA
Power top switch replacement

Anyone know how to remove and replace the power top switch on '70 Cutlass? I don't want to force it out and I can't figure out how it is supposed to come out.

Thanks,
Old Nov 13, 2016 | 10:25 AM
  #2  
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Two 1/4 inch screws + connector from behind. I remove the gauge cluster and reach in the speedo and gauge holes. 1/4 inch drive ratchet with 1/4 inch socket. You can also and come in from the bottom I have to lay on my back and remove the front seat that way. If your car has air you have to remove the lower ducts when coming from the bottom.
Old Nov 13, 2016 | 10:30 AM
  #3  
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Originally Posted by Dave26
Two 1/4 inch screws + connector from behind. I remove the gauge cluster and reach in the speedo and gauge holes. 1/4 inch drive ratchet with 1/4 inch socket. You can also and come in from the bottom I have to lay on my back and remove the front seat that way. If your car has air you have to remove the lower ducts when coming from the bottom.
X2. I go through the gauge holes after taking them out. Much easier this way.
Old Nov 13, 2016 | 10:47 AM
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OK, sorry for the next dumb question, how do I remove the gauge cluster? Car does have ac, and I'm not against lying on my back. I have the service manual and body manual, I can't find any instructions on removing the gauges cluster

Last edited by mownhoj; Nov 13, 2016 at 11:10 AM. Reason: mention service manual
Old Nov 13, 2016 | 12:06 PM
  #5  
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There are 4 phillips screws, 2 that hold the woodgrain piece in at the top of it & 2 on the bottom, above the top switch area & on the other side of the column, then 3 1/4" screws per gauge. The speedo cable is released by pressing a small tab towards you on the bottom of the cable at the speedo. Sometimes you have to push the cable towards the rear of the car a tiny bit then press the tab. Use a small flat screwdriver to CAREFULLY pry the connector from the gauge cluster & speedo. A small flash light helps & if you can use your phone camera & put it on the selfie mode so you can see behind the switch.
Old Nov 13, 2016 | 12:09 PM
  #6  
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Two Phillips screws facing upwards.in front of garages. Pull bezel forward, tabs and slots hold the bottom in place. Gauges held in place with 1/4 inch screws from front. Next challenge is the speedo cable. From behind squeeze "spring steel" clamp, pull cable out. Pin style wiring harness.
Old Nov 13, 2016 | 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by oldspackrat
There are 4 phillips screws, 2 that hold the woodgrain piece in at the top of it & 2 on the bottom,
The bottom two screws also hold in the blue switch illumination lenses.
Old Nov 13, 2016 | 03:56 PM
  #8  
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I know I've got some pictures on my photobucket site.

Here's the back of the speedometer head. You can see the speedometer clip that needs to be released to pull the cable. And you can see the small pins that the wiring plus into.
P4010393.jpg

P4010391.jpg

P4010390.jpg
Here's the chrome bezel with the tiny nuts on the back. This is from a wagon, but the switch for a convertible top is the same.


P1010165.jpg

P1010170.jpg


Then for this last picture look at the switch closest to the steering column, not what I'm pointing at! The switch has a yellow back and has four pins sticking out of it. There are two 1/4" hex head bolts/screws that hold it on. this is what you'll need to remove first. I don't remember if you need to pull the small nuts off the bezel too, its been at least a decade since I pull this from a car. The other guys will have to speak up, but I hope the pictures will help too.
P1010264.jpg
Old Nov 13, 2016 | 06:16 PM
  #9  
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Wow! Thanks guys!! Thought it would be a much bigger deal than that.

So now I am wondering about the switch itself, the one from OPGI is $142, the one at Fusick is $73.50.... Anyone have any experience with either? I can't understand the huge price difference.
Old Nov 14, 2016 | 02:25 AM
  #10  
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What is wrong with yours? Most of them can be rebuilt very simple. Most of them just need cleaned out and the contacts lightly sanded clean.
Old Nov 14, 2016 | 06:04 AM
  #11  
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It's frozen, won't tilt at all. Not sure how that happened but it came back from the shop that way...
Old Nov 14, 2016 | 09:36 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by mownhoj
It's frozen, won't tilt at all. Not sure how that happened but it came back from the shop that way...
When you get it out, there are two clips you can pop off. Take it apart slow so you don't loose the parts. I am willing to bet that you can clean it up inside and make it work again.
Old Nov 14, 2016 | 03:55 PM
  #13  
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OK, I guess there's no reason not try. It's weird how it's just locked up, it just won't move.
Old Nov 19, 2016 | 01:00 PM
  #14  
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Well fellas, another successful repair thanks to all your awesome help! I was surprised how easily I got the gauges out. Getting to those two screws holding the switch in place was a real pain, but it went back together surprisingly easily.

I have a little round light that swivels and has a magnet on the base that I picked up at Home Depot, that thing has been one of the most helpful little tools I've ever owned. For this job, it stuck to the metal at the back of the area behind the gauges just aft of the firewall which was very helpful!

Next thing I want to do is get into the switch and see if I can fix it and have a spare.

Thanks again!
Old Nov 19, 2016 | 01:01 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Fun71
The bottom two screws also hold in the blue switch illumination lenses.
Speaking of those blue lenses, I have one over the a/c controls but not over the wiper switch and the power top switch, should I have one on both sides of the steering wheel?
Old Nov 19, 2016 | 01:16 PM
  #16  
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My '72 only has the one on the right side.
Old Nov 19, 2016 | 03:10 PM
  #17  
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Both my 70 and 71 had two lenses.
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