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as for any conversions I have to wait to get back to the car which is probably tomorrow for me and pull the cap and see if there’s anything different under there.
Last edited by Green_Machine; Jul 21, 2025 at 06:26 PM.
If it looks like a points distributor it may have been converted under the cap. Lift the adjustment window on the cap. Do you see a round screw head with a 6 sided hole in it to accept a hex key/Allen wrench? If yes it is still points. If not it has been converted.
If it looks like a points distributor it may have been converted under the cap. Lift the adjustment window on the cap. Do you see a round screw head with a 6 sided hole in it to accept a hex key/Allen wrench? If yes it is still points. If not it has been converted.
The adjustment window lifts upwards (with your fingers) to gain access (what Jeff was referring to). The Lock Down screws rotate to unlock/lock (secure) the Distributor cap should you elect to remove the distributor cap. Notice the bottom of each Lock Down screw will rotate as you rotate each screw unlocking or locking the distributor cap.
Here’s the distributor for all wondering. I replaced spark plugs. Checked the points turned out I had no spark whatsoever. Gonna check the ignition coil for power next.
Crank it without the cap on to confirm that the points open and close. Confirm that the black wire to the points isn't grounded. The angle of the connector on the black wire at the points could be touching the breaker plate and grounding, it can't touch the plate.
The coil should have full battery voltage to it while cranking and approximately 9VDC while running.
The points look like Uni-Set in which the condenser and points are one unit, confirm that they are grounded to the breaker plate to which they mount and that the breaker plate itself is grounded.
Last edited by Sugar Bear; Jul 22, 2025 at 05:07 PM.
Crank it without the cap on to confirm that the points open and close. Confirm that the black wire to the points isn't grounded. The angle of the connector on the black wire at the points could be touching the breaker plate and grounding, it can't touch the plate.
The coil should have full battery voltage to it while cranking and approximately 9VDC while running.
The points look like Uni-Set in which the condenser and points are one unit, confirm that they are grounded to the breaker plate to which they mount and that the breaker plate itself is grounded.
cranked the engine still no spark. Turns out points are brand new. Old ones I found in the trunk. Breaker plate has ground and the wire running from the coil does not. So I think I’m gonna pick up a new coil and see what that does
If you don't already own the 1973 GM Oldsmobile Chassis Service Manual (CSM) buy an original (used) paperback. It's the bible for your 98. It will be & is the Number One manual (Bible) to own for your car. It contains the original color wiring diagram, w/ illustrations & precise dialog for the engine, brakes, tune-up, specifications, brakes, steering, wheels/tires, etc. This is the manual an Oldsmobile service mechanic would have used. There are several for sale varying prices w/ shipping or free shipping - mostly on eBay. Don't buy the CD/DVD or those listed as NEW. Get an original (used) paperback edition.
I see tell-tale signs of wear with the distributor rotor & it's likely the distributor cap needs replacement. Notice the rotor "button". The metal which secures/holds that button in place appears corroded. Note the fairly modest amount of carbon specs located on the rotor. Note the rotor screws securing the rotor - they're rusted. Buy a new set of distributor contact points, condenser, rotor & distributor cap. I would put zero faith in the previous owners abilities. You have the opportunity to do this correctly. Note the importance of understanding the eight camshaft lobes of the distributor shaft. The contact points open & close based upon each of the eight cam lobes. Ensure you are setting your points at the highest point on one of the cam lobes. This then establishes the ability of the magnetic field to collapse at the precise timing providing the highest voltage possible.
I see tell-tale signs of wear with the distributor rotor & it's likely the distributor cap needs replacement. Notice the rotor "button". The metal which secures/holds that button in place appears corroded. Note the fairly modest amount of carbon specs located on the rotor. Note the rotor screws securing the rotor - they're rusted. Buy a new set of distributor contact points, condenser, rotor & distributor cap. I would put zero faith in the previous owners abilities. You have the opportunity to do this correctly. Note the importance of understanding the eight camshaft lobes of the distributor shaft. The contact points open & close based upon each of the eight cam lobes. Ensure you are setting your points at the highest point on one of the cam lobes. This then establishes the ability of the magnetic field to collapse at the precise timing providing the highest voltage possible.
I appreciate it. I’ll look into those parts and get them ordered.
I'd try the old points, I've had issues years ago with some Uni-Sets. Do you have power to the coil? Coils can fail but not that often.
Take it one step further, put the test light on the tach side of the coil. Crank the engine, the test light should flicker as the points open and close.
Hello all apologies for not being active I’ve had some personal issues some of which are regardin this car.
but finally I spared some time to go down and take a look and I removed the points and found that the previous owner forgot to gap them properly which caused the contacts to burn up. So I’ll get some new points ordered and put them in and see what that does
Ok so new points are in. It tried to start on starter fluid but died right after some I’m assuming either pump or fuel filter. Leaning toward filter cuz before I bought it the old owner ran the fuel level low so I’m guessing it might have picked some crap up from inside the tank.
Rather than "leaning towards", why not test first? Disconnect the fuel line to the carb and temporarily run it into a can,. Crank the engine and see if fuel comes out. If it does, change the filter or check the carb. If not, check the pump, the tank sock, or the rubber lines between the tank and the hard line on the frame and between the hard line and the pump. Cracks or holes in these rubber lines will cause the pump to suck air, not gas.
Also, have you tried to prime the carb by pouring gas in the bowl vent to fill the float bowl? I use a wash bottle to squirt gas into the vent tube, but there are other ways to do it.
I need to get back down there it’s not at my house but I’m gonna pull the line and put it in a bottle and crank to see if enough fuel is shooting out and if so I’ll pull the filter and see if it’s clogged up. Also no I didn’t prime the carb I could try that first if anything.
So I pulled the line off and it wasn’t shooting anything so I pulled the pump and manually pumped the pushrod and it was squirting out. Where to go next?
Many here know more than me, but if no fuel is shooting out of an open fuel line when the engine is cranking, I’d suspect the fuel pump.
But then you manually pumped it and you got fuel.
So maybe the cam eccentric on the front of the cam is loose? That cam is supposed to activate the pump in time with RPM. I’ve never had this problem, but if the pump rubber diaphragm is sound based on your hand pumping, the next thing to suspect is the thing that’s supposed to make the pump arm go up & down.
I’d pull the fuel pump and stick a screwdriver into the pump arm hole and see if I could wiggle the eccentric. If it wiggles, it may be loose enough to not pump fuel.
If it’s loose, and your waterpump is unknown vintage, that’s a great 2-fer job - fix the eccentric and install a known-good water pump.
The bolt that holds the eccentric in place also holds the cam gear in place, so while not impossible, a loose eccentric would not be high on my list. If you have access to a borescope, look in the fuel pump hole. You might even be able to see it with a cell phone camera. I would look at more likely causes. First, are you moving the fuel pump lever more than it gets moved by the eccentric? This might make more fuel come out than when the engine cranks it. Second, completely inspect the rubber lines from the frame hard lines to the pump. If there is a crack, it's possible that when you removed the pump and held it for manual pumping, you moved it in a way that closed off a crack that was causing it to suck air when installed on the engine. And yeah, it's very possible that the pump is weak and by holding it in a different position, you enabled it to pump more.
Have you tried filling the carb float bowl through the vent tube? If the car runs for a short while after doing that, then fuel delivery is definitely the problem. If not, look elsewhere.
Also I should’ve clarified that I pulled off the fuel pump and sprayed brake clean through each fitting and then pressed the lever against the ground to get a spray. I confirmed it was a fuel issue because I ran the line into a clear bottle and so no fuel flow whatsoever. It runs on starting fluid.
