When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
New alternator POS post is loose when trying to uns
I am taking the alternator and have everything disconnected - but when I go to loosen the little nut holding the big POS cable to the back of it, the whole post is turning/loosening (see pic)
. Never seen that before. I tried reaching down under the nut & wire connector to hold what looks like a square base to the threaded post, but, can't grab & hold it. Anyone run into this? I can't get the nut off now.
I'm not certain I'm looking at the image correctly, but it appears whoever attached/secured the positive cable terminal end attached the terminal end in the wrong location. The cable terminal end is supposed to go directly below the bottom of the 'top' hexagonal nut. Instead, it looks like the terminal end is attached below the lower hexagonal nut - which would be the nut used to secure the bolt to the alternator case. Then, the alternator top nut was attached with far too much brute force; albeit, the current dilemma. Worst case scenario is you can disassemble the alternator case to hold the other bolt post nut inside the alternator case to free the external top nut - not a two minute job, but it can be done. What you need (maybe) is a super-thin open-end wrench to grab that lower hex head. I don't know if I'm looking at this correctly but it appears the washer (I believe is mounted incorrectly) is actually bent upwards?
You can also try a pneumatic gun and hope for a really, really, really quick spin on the top nut.
Sorry, the simple answer to your question is I've seen this happen when someone doesn't know how to attach a cable terminal end correctly and tightens something far too tightly to end up in this position.
The positive cable terminal end attaches to the alternator post below the top nut (arrows), not below the bottom nut. Maybe beat that washer down on all sides & you can get a vice grip, or another wrench to securely hold the bottom nut.
The positive cable terminal end attaches to the alternator post below the top nut (arrows), not below the bottom nut. Maybe beat that washer down on all sides & you can get a vice grip, or another wrench to securely hold the bottom nut.
My phone may not take the best quality images - just went out and took a couple more and attached the clearest one here
- and confirmed that the end of the POS terminal connector is immediately below the gold colored nut (above with arrows). Now, it is entirely possible I put too much torque on that gold nut, didn't think so, but ...I am where I am. I think if I can find a way to grab the end of the POS wire and hold it in place, (somehow wedge against wall of alternator) to keep it from turning with nut, I should be okay. Just weird to run into this.
My phone may not take the best quality images - just went out and took a couple more and attached the clearest one here
- and confirmed that the end of the POS terminal connector is immediately below the gold colored nut (above with arrows). Now, it is entirely possible I put too much torque on that gold nut, didn't think so, but ...I am where I am. I think if I can find a way to grab the end of the POS wire and hold it in place, (somehow wedge against wall of alternator) to keep it from turning with nut, I should be okay. Just weird to run into this.
Good. So much better view from another perspective with those images. I thought same earlier but didn't post. Yeah, maybe a screwdriver wedged between the alt case and the lower post assembly you can then hold the post securely. Also, the pneumatic driver/gun wrench often works to put a really, really, really fast spin on that top nut. Again, last case scenario - you can disassemble to get the interior post nut. Sorry this happened.
Needle nose locking pliers may grip the back shoulder enough to break it loose but don't let the locking pliers slip.
I see two problems with this situation: First there is plenty of corrosion on the ring terminal that goes up into the wire, it should be stripped back and the ring terminal replaced with a high quality replacement, second if it is turning inside there is likely a poor connection inside the alternator that isn't tight enough.
IIRC, that alternator bolt/post passes into the alternator then through one side of the rectifier(?) where the other end of the bolt/post has a nut attached. That attached nut secures both the one end of the rectifier and the other end of bolt/post in place. It can be reached but removal of the case is obviously required.
Mine did the exact same last weekend. I used needle nose pliers to hold the wire, then popped the nut loose. I had to change the connector anyways on mine cause of corrosion.
IIRC, that alternator bolt/post passes into the alternator then through one side of the rectifier(?) where the other end of the bolt/post has a nut attached. That attached nut secures both the one end of the rectifier and the other end of bolt/post in place. It can be reached but removal of the case is obviously required.
I was wondering about this - if I had to split the alternator to tighten that POS post. Sounds like I do…
This is a video of a conversion; but, it demonstrates the innards of the alternator and what your bolt/post looks like from the inside. The video will start where he discusses the bolt/post. Good Luck!
Yes the nut inside is loose. The alt will need to be taken apart to tighten it. You could grind a 1/2 inch wrench thin to fit under the wire to hold the post, but at this point you may as well destroy the insulator and use what ever you have to hold the post. The square inside of the insulator is bad if the post is spinning and will need to be replaced anyway. You could also cut the wire and crimp a new eyelet on it. No matter what you do the alt will need to be taken apart to tighten the nut or to remove the inner nut to get the post out and replace the insulator. It is a new alt and should have a warranty so I would just cut the wire, crimp on a new eyelet, and return the alt If they give you a hard time I would bitch about the post being loose or it would not have happened. I doubt it they will give you any trouble on replacing the alt.
Yes the nut inside is loose. The alt will need to be taken apart to tighten it. You could grind a 1/2 inch wrench thin to fit under the wire to hold the post, but at this point you may as well destroy the insulator and use what ever you have to hold the post. The square inside of the insulator is bad if the post is spinning and will need to be replaced anyway. You could also cut the wire and crimp a new eyelet on it. No matter what you do the alt will need to be taken apart to tighten the nut or to remove the inner nut to get the post out and replace the insulator. It is a new alt and should have a warranty so I would just cut the wire, crimp on a new eyelet, and return the alt If they give you a hard time I would bitch about the post being loose or it would not have happened. I doubt it they will give you any trouble on replacing the alt.
Interesting. I used my hammer/torque drill and - while holding the end of the rusty POS cable (since clipped, stripped, cleaned, dielectric-greased, re-terminated) I was able to, easily, spin the nut off. Once off, and cable removed, I just used needle nose pliers and grabbed the snot out of that rectangular base of the post and was able to tighten it back up. Securely. Don't think I need to take the alternator apart. Will see if driving doesn't shake it loose, but it seems fine now.
Thanks all!!!
No. Take it apart. You NEED to tighten the nut inside the alt on the other end of the post. If the nut falls off it could trash the inside of the alt. If it stays on it WILL burn where it tightens against the rectifier bridge. It may burn the post as well. You won't be charging very good when it burns and possibly the charge indicator light will come on dim.
No. Take it apart. You NEED to tighten the nut inside the alt on the other end of the post. If the nut falls off it could trash the inside of the alt. If it stays on it WILL burn where it tightens against the rectifier bridge. It may burn the post as well. You won't be charging very good when it burns and possibly the charge indicator light will come on dim.
^^^THIS. I've had some success holding the wire terminal while loosening the nut, but as Stellar correctly notes, once you get it off, you need to tighten the internal nut on that stud.
