major water issue — new to me 1968 Cutlass S Convertible
#41
Update; Window back on track, lubed up and rolling better than ever. Rain gutters / drain hole working flawlessly, both sides. HOWEVER, water is getting in thu the top. Don’t know how I missed this yesterday. Photos describe issue best; notice ‘gap’ on passenger side ‘curtain’ - water is coming in there (1), collecting on the boot (2) and running down back, behind seat. Driver side curtain is flush, no gap, no leaks (3). Thoughts on how to mend this? Hoping I don’t need a professional installer to get involved…
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#42
Turns out neither left or right side of the interior convertible top is ‘tight’ - purely cosmetic… I can slip my hand into either side. So., guessing it’s probably stitching near the glass?
#44
Actually top is being replaced on that one right now, so I don't have it. But, yes that one did leak too, not nearly that bad. The only thing I'm certain about is water is getting into the car through the back window. Where that is happening is the question. Window is firmly held in place, so short of dissecting it, it's very hard to see what's going on under there. Ultimately, I think I will have to have a professional installer help with this.
#47
I'd recommend you get a Fisher Body Manual for the car. You can get these from multiple sources and it will really help you to understand how the top mechanism works, how the material attaches, how the windows are installed and all the soft trim. It's really a great resource. I don't understand where you're saying the water is coming in. I thought you were saying the back window but then the material and window seem OK? There is a heavy channel under the body where the top looks like it's connected to the body in the 'up' position. This channel is actually what the top is connected to. If things aren't tight and you're able to move material or get your hand in there, something is wrong. With the interior trim out and access to the trunk you should be able to diagnose root cause.
#48
Yes, I need that manual. Someone actually sent mea link to print for my '72 - I'm betting that convertible mechanism is very similar, if not the exact same. By appearances, it appears to be. As for the channel — I actually looked at that and removed two heavy-duty bolts, as I suspected the material might have become loose and thought I could snug it up. The material doesn't move, at all. Seems it must be glued on there?
Looking at the outside, the water appears to be entering through the area I circled in the pic Looking at the inside, it appears to be coming in through the 'gap'... But, as I wrote, this gap is likely not the issue — I am able to slide my hand into that area on the driver side of the top as well (though it is flush on that side) — so it must be stitched much further back, closer to the window. Cant quite get my hand that far back.
Ultimately, I need to investigate this more. I ran out of daylight yesterday so it likely will wait until Saturday, at this point
Looking at the outside, the water appears to be entering through the area I circled in the pic Looking at the inside, it appears to be coming in through the 'gap'... But, as I wrote, this gap is likely not the issue — I am able to slide my hand into that area on the driver side of the top as well (though it is flush on that side) — so it must be stitched much further back, closer to the window. Cant quite get my hand that far back.
Ultimately, I need to investigate this more. I ran out of daylight yesterday so it likely will wait until Saturday, at this point
#49
Newest update is vert leaks are mostly resolved, at least to the point I’m comfortable replacing carpet. Interesting, the window is stitched in tight. However, with top 1/2 down, I could observe completely open areas on both left and right sides panels… I don’t know enough to know whether that’s normal, or if should be sealed. Seems that it would be sealed, but it LOOKS correct as is.
here’s another thing. I can’t understand why the drain plugs are installed under the rear seat rather than from under the car? Obviously pulling these plugs the way they are originally installed would require removing the backseat. But, If I reinstall from under the car I could easily pull them out, if I happen to get caught in a torrential downpour
And apologies for all the switchbacking. But any reason why I wouldn’t use the $43.50 55 amp AC Delco alternator versus $150 powermaster, 100 amp alt?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...lass/year/1968
I’ll send pics of the new dual exhaust too. Russ from accurate performance in Hyde park ma is an artist!
#50
Interesting, the window is stitched in tight. However, with top 1/2 down, I could observe completely open areas on both left and right sides panels… I don’t know enough to know whether that’s normal, or if should be sealed. Seems that it would be sealed, but it LOOKS correct as is.
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