1968 cutlass no leaks...
#5
Grab the fan and pull up and down. See any deflection, replace it. Tight, leave it alone.
Careful to not misdiagnose a loose clutch fan for a loose water pump shaft... if you have a clutch fan.
I have witnessed several times where a pump doesn't leak because the system pressure was low due to a bad cap not maintaining pressure. After servicing the hoses like you are and replacing the cap the pumps leaked. You could also do a coolant system pressure test and find the weak link that way as well. Save you some time and frustration.
Do a good flush on the system before removing the old hoses.
Flush the heater core by its self with the hoses disconnected from the engine...LOW garden hose pressure! Gently blow or suck (shop vac(not full suction on the heater core)) all raw water out o the entire system.
Use the premixed coolant or distilled H20 on the straight stuff. Never use raw city water.
Retighten hoses/belts after a couple 100 miles.
Careful to not misdiagnose a loose clutch fan for a loose water pump shaft... if you have a clutch fan.
I have witnessed several times where a pump doesn't leak because the system pressure was low due to a bad cap not maintaining pressure. After servicing the hoses like you are and replacing the cap the pumps leaked. You could also do a coolant system pressure test and find the weak link that way as well. Save you some time and frustration.
Do a good flush on the system before removing the old hoses.
Flush the heater core by its self with the hoses disconnected from the engine...LOW garden hose pressure! Gently blow or suck (shop vac(not full suction on the heater core)) all raw water out o the entire system.
Use the premixed coolant or distilled H20 on the straight stuff. Never use raw city water.
Retighten hoses/belts after a couple 100 miles.
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