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Any ideas why both top and bottom leaks from this spot on both lines? New pump new lift cylinders new lines - guy who did my top said the leak was from my pump housing so I bought a new pump and I think it was just these lines - any ideas?
Just a guess but is the fitting on the line a flared fitting and the fitting on the pump a pipe fitting. I don't know but you might check it out.... Tedd
I am not sure but I think they are flared. My guess is it has been overtightened. That sucks. I hate the smell of transmission fluid.
if I had overtightened it what are my options? Buy another line kit? I now understand it is hand tight plus a quarter turn - I put the new lines on the old pump awhile ago in preparation for a new top - I used thread tape which I now understand is a no no - any options other then throwing more money at it and hoping?
Just a guess but is the fitting on the line a flared fitting and the fitting on the pump a pipe fitting. I don't know but you might check it out.... Tedd
x2. I did this once on a brake proportioning valve. Amazing how they thread right in and feel ok but leak. I needed a adapter. Good luck, you'll get it...
x2. I did this once on a brake proportioning valve. Amazing how they thread right in and feel ok but leak. I needed a adapter. Good luck, you'll get it...
thanks - I’ll try and pull the lines and take pics and have another look at it - but I’m bating 0 for 4 in attempts at making them not leak so far 😩 - what sort of adapter? Or would that not apply for convertible hydraulics?
Well, I can't remember what exactly the sizes were but I bought a brake proportioning valve and I threaded in a double flare fitting. I was really surprised that it leaked like a sieve. I called the place I bought it and they told me it had pipe thread fittings ( I can't remember the size) I'm guessing it was 1/8" pipe thread but the 3/16" tube size flare fitting fit in almost perfectly. I say almost because after I paid a little more attention I could tell it wasn't right. Anyway I'm guessing at those sizes... I ended up getting a brass adapter fitting and it all worked. But when I replaced the pump on my Cutlass vert it all fit with no need for adapters, so maybe I'm all wrong. I see you're in Lansing, are you going to the homecoming?
Well, I can't remember what exactly the sizes were but I bought a brake proportioning valve and I threaded in a double flare fitting. I was really surprised that it leaked like a sieve. I called the place I bought it and they told me it had pipe thread fittings ( I can't remember the size) I'm guessing it was 1/8" pipe thread but the 3/16" tube size flare fitting fit in almost perfectly. I say almost because after I paid a little more attention I could tell it wasn't right. Anyway I'm guessing at those sizes... I ended up getting a brass adapter fitting and it all worked. But when I replaced the pump on my Cutlass vert it all fit with no need for adapters, so maybe I'm all wrong. I see you're in Lansing, are you going to the homecoming?
thanks for the info! I hope to get it solved so I can put it all back together again this weekend. Yes I’ll be at homecoming! Been far too long! Hope there’s a section for hoopties 😜 say hi if you see the pinehurst green / primer grey / fiberglass black / rusty four tone 72 vert 😜
I went to the hardware store and had the guy hook me up with some fittings for pipe to flange
Nice and snug fit ... leaked so bad had to measure fluid loss in gallons per second 😩back to the drawing board
I pulled the whole system - elevated the pump and very carefully put the lines in the pump - the lift cylinders are 100% leak free - I’ve got the top and bottom pump down to a slight drip at the end of The cylinders travel - rain taking over - will come back to it tomorrow - this works pretty good for bleeding the system FYI - I just used a jumper for the ground and a heavy square bucket for elevation (heavy because pump likes to dance a little bit)
Well .. the lift cylinders are leak free - the top “up” side of pump is leak free - the top “down” side of pump only has a small leak at the end if it’s run - better than it was - It will probably work for a year or two before needing refill - I don’t like the thought of any leak but it is what it is. I will have to live with it
All put back together This is the amount of leakage from two compete trips of the top up and down
I think you have a crappy hose there! Where did you buy them? Are they universal? I bought my hoses from this place, I have that same pump, I have no leaks. The hoses are nice, fresh, you can buy them individually. For $50.00 you can fix it. It's like 2 hours work to disassemble the L + R panels change and re-assemble if it starts leaking bad. Think about it... http://www.convertibleparts.com/5973gmhse.html
I would not give up. To me, it looks as the flare on the line tee is poorly made or formed, not enough material making up the flare. There should be no leak. A little oil makes a large mess and attracts dirt like a magnet.
And please, do not use wire nuts anywhere on the car.
Can you tighten that fitting 1/8 turn more? Whats with the wire nuts?
When I had the whole system out in the trunk I did the “hand tight 1/4 turn” as per instructions - ran system - both ways - checked leaks - made minor adjustments of about a 1/16 turn - repeat - I did this one shown several times trying to fix the leak - I’m kind of afraid I’ll make it worse but maybe I will try a little tighter at a later date. - wire nuts? You mean the hydraulic line connectors? That’s the way they came - they didn’t come that way originally?
I think you have a crappy hose there! Where did you buy them? Are they universal? I bought my hoses from this place, I have that same pump, I have no leaks. The hoses are nice, fresh, you can buy them individually. For $50.00 you can fix it. It's like 2 hours work to disassemble the L + R panels change and re-assemble if it starts leaking bad. Think about it... http://www.convertibleparts.com/5973gmhse.html
Hydro-E-lectric from Amazon - bought them in 2016 a year before I did my top - figured I would get the system working before I got my top in 2017. Been an epic fail - the cylinder were bad so replacing them was a good deal - failed on the lines - replaced a pump that didn’t need replacing - and the top looks great but they blew the frame with shake paint and just painted over the rust and imperfections in the frame (coffmans in Grand Rapids mi - good looking top - very poor service and lied) but I’m happy to have a top on it finally and it does look good
I would not give up. To me, it looks as the flare on the line tee is poorly made or formed, not enough material making up the flare. There should be no leak. A little oil makes a large mess and attracts dirt like a magnet.
And please, do not use wire nuts anywhere on the car.
oh! Lol - didn’t even see the wire nuts - good eyes guys - those are to the speakers - stereo is inop - I like listening to her run - but I did put the speaker back on to hold the convertible top well in place - I’ll address those when I get to stereo mode.
I would agree with Patrick that the flare looks bad. I don't see what you can do about it, there's not enough room on the tube to redo it. I hate that, when you buy parts in preparation and don't use them, only to find out years later they won't work. It happens to everybody.
I would agree with Patrick that the flare looks bad. I don't see what you can do about it, there's not enough room on the tube to redo it. I hate that, when you buy parts in preparation and don't use them, only to find out years later they won't work. It happens to everybody.
hear ya - I’m going to try a 1/8 turn and live with it for now - I’ll try the other manufacturers lines next time I address it - need the car to pick up kids from last day of school (their request) then I can dive into badly needed distributor work - thanks for all your help gang!
Can you tighten that fitting 1/8 turn more? Whats with the wire nuts?
i tried that extra 1/8 turn - put some fresh paper towel under the pump and ran the top down - took the lady out for ice cream - came home and raised it - dry paper towel - at first glance that seemed to do the trick! thank you! I will watch it in the near future but glad i got the weekend goal accomplished
I used the hyroelectric lines with no trouble. When you tighten a flare you re-shape it into the stationary fitting, and it kind of molds itself into shape. I never payed attention to the 1/4 turn rule, just keep at it until it don't leak. But on brass, you can pull threads.
Glad it's working.
If mine I would probably wrap those lines well with some kind of absorbent rags with plastic film laid on the bottom. Once oil gets into your floor you can never get it out... Just a thought....Tedd
i tried that extra 1/8 turn - put some fresh paper towel under the pump and ran the top down - took the lady out for ice cream - came home and raised it - dry paper towel - at first glance that seemed to do the trick! thank you! I will watch it in the near future but glad i got the weekend goal accomplished
I used the hyroelectric lines with no trouble. When you tighten a flare you re-shape it into the stationary fitting, and it kind of molds itself into shape. I never payed attention to the 1/4 turn rule, just keep at it until it don't leak. But on brass, you can pull threads.
Glad it's working.
If mine I would probably wrap those lines well with some kind of absorbent rags with plastic film laid on the bottom. Once oil gets into your floor you can never get it out... Just a thought....Tedd
appreciate it - I’ve got it covered - the paper towel is ontop of the other protection just to see any new leaks
May 16th, 2018, 01:46 PM
