Mak

I'm hoping someone can school me on convertible top's. The way the top seals and drains water is not an area I have any experience with. My top was cut by vandals/thieves over a year ago, and replaced by my insurance company. The work was done by a local auto upholstery shop that has a great reputation for doing high quality work. The new top looks great... but it leaks water like crazy and they're giving me the run-around. Since the top was replaced I have two issues:

When I wash the car water leaks in all across the top of the windshield frame. Even after chamoising the car until it appears dry, once I start driving water drips off the visors and the rear view mirror (I can only imagine how bad it would leak if I was actually driving in the rain). I took it back to the shop and they said it's cuz I need new weatherstrips... maybe I'm wrong, but doesn't the top seal directly to the windshield frame? I don't see any weatherstrip to replace. It never leaked like this before the top was replaced. When I took it back they said they fixed it... turns out they just put one-sided tape across the windshield frame (which pisses me off... the first hot day the tape turned into a sticky mess). Any advise on what needs to be done?

The second issue (which turns out probably isn't their fault, but never happened until the top was replaced) is the water the shed's off the back of the top, ends up in the back seat floor now. It turns out the drains under the car, just in front of the back wheel wells, were completely plugged up with debris. I poked a screw driver up through them and got them to start draining, but there was a lot of water in there... enough to hear it sloshing around when driving. I have no idea where these drains are or how they work. I'd like to access that area and clean out the remaining crap and try to neutralize any rust that has started (unfortunately I think there has been standing water in there for over a year.)

Anyway, I have life-time warranty on insurance repairs through State Farm... as long as the problem is due to materials or installation. I'm taking the car back in to the shop next week to have the top rechecked. I'm going to remove the back seat and rear side panels so the damage can be assessed. Like I said, I'm pretty sure the drains being plugged is a coincidence and probably not related to the top installation, so I'll end up dealing with the drains and rust myself... but the top not sealing in front I'm not so sure about. The last time I took it in the guy just said "it's an old car... start with replacing all the rubber seals." Any information I can get on these issues before I take it in would really help me in dealing with them. Any advise from you rag-top guys will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

rocketraider

There should be a weatherstrip on the front bow that seals the front bow to the windshield header. You also have a new top that is still reasonably "tight" and there may still be enough tension in the fabric to lift the front bow slightly off the header, especially at road speeds.

With the top retracted and "relaxed", feel around under the body opening for the plastic (possibly metal back then, careful of sharp edges) rain gutter. You may have to go in thru the trunk to see it.

The gutter catches any leakage between top and body opening and directs water to its ends, where it discharges into the body cavity ahead of the rear wheelwells and out of the drain holes you've unplugged.

Past this, you'll need a 1967 Fisher Body manual. It shows all the particulars of the convertible top installation.

Lady72nRob71

Been there, done that, got the wet t-shirt..........

Need to remove the interior quarter trim and clean the crap out of the rear quarters.
Look in through the door jamb vent - it should be nice and clean. I had about half a pail full of dirt in each.
See here of what I had in the left quarter:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/robsalb...57602930020786

Here is what it SHOULD look like:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/robsalb...7602930020786/
Once clean, the square drain holes on the sides will be visible.

My right quarter had a lot more crap in it.

As for the front, make sure the seal there is solft and pliable. If more than 10 years old, i would just replace it. With a new top I would replace it also as the new top would seal differently. If the top latches very easily, then it needs tightening. If some muscle is needed to latch it, then the seal is compressed or deformed and needs replacement.

Mak

Thanks for the info. I found the front weatherstrip and it's flat as a pancake (helped for me to actually open my eye's! duh.) I cancelled the appt. at the upholstery shop... I'll order a new set of weatherstrips... that should take care of it.

Mak

Thanks for the info. I don't see where I have a "door jamb vent", but I assume if I remove the rear seat and the interior panels I'll be able to access that area. Was it difficult to get into that area for cleaning? What about rust... did you have to rust-coat the area? I need to replace my right/rear power window motor anyway, so I guess I'll do both at the same time. Thanks again, you guys are great, can't beat replies that include info... and pics!

Lady72nRob71

Looks like you have the bow leak well diagnosed. Flat is bad! Only the Earth should be flat, not your seals!

We have different cars, so not sure if yours had a vent on the door jamb, visible when you open the door, above or below the striker. Maybe not.
Regardless, you have some crap down there that needs to come out.
Do all your quarter work at the same time. Pull the regulators to change the motors and clean wash and repaint the quarter insides before reinstalling the regs. Grease it all up well also.

On my car it was a bit of a pain to get in there, but it was possible.
Once cleaned and washed out, I sanded any thicker rust and painted over the light surface rust with POR15 clear.
I recommend long thick rubber gloves to reduce the "attacked by cheese grater" effect, along with wearing less POR15...

rocketraider

1967 Oldsmobiles except Toronado will not have door jamb vents (properly called air relief valve). That didn't start until they did away with vent windows- GM's infamous "Astro-Ventilation".

Here's a good explanation of how Astro-Ventilation worked. See posts 5, 13 & 14. http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=563

When I did the Toronado the first time, I had to replace the soundproofing/insulation on the rear shelf and behind the rear seat. I used that aluminum reflective roll insulation you can get at Lowe's or other home improvement stores and made the mistake of covering the exhaust vent slots to the trunk with the stuff, as well as taping the edges with aluminum HVAC duct tape. That made the car so airtight I could not close the doors with the windows up, not to mention even with A/C on it was stuffy as hell inside the car without a window cracked open.

So- out came the rear half of the interior, again. Cut the insulation away from the exhaust slots and everything worked again.

Mak

Did you spray or brush on the POR15?
Thanks again.

Lady72nRob71

All was brushed on.
Spraying inside the quarters would be difficult due to them being.......









...tight quarters