It’s a 330 2bbl and when it sits for a day it’s hard to start. Thinking the float chamber is not keeping fuel in it. Starts after it gets fuel from fuel pump. Any ideas or known problems and is there a comparable electric choke 2 bbl available for the 330?

 

Do you use fuel with ehthanol? If so that is the problem.

 

Curious as to if there is a newer style replacement 2bbl carburetor with electric choke that I can swap out my Rochester 2bbl with?

 

You can convert your hot air choke to an electric choke with the proper kit.

https://www.carburetor-parts.com/2-jet-choke

I've ordered parts from Mike's Carburetor Parts before. They have good service and they're willing to help if you have questions.
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Don't ditch your original 2bbl - especially for one of the new aftermarket replacements - just because you think the choke is dead. Check out Mike's Carburetor (Mike's Carburetor Parts (carburetor-parts.com)
That carb is easy enough to rebuild, if it needs it, but there are replacement choke parts and electric choke conversions available for it. Simple, cheap and easy.

 

Define hard to start. Excessive cranking? Hard to keep running?


Have you verified the choke fully closes on a cold start? It would be far easier to fix or adjust what you already have instead of modifying parts that will need adjusting anyway.

If the choke fully closes and it’s still hard to start, carefully add a little fuel to the float bowl vent. If it starts and runs normally, it’s a fuel evaporation issue. Unfortunately, that’s a problem with todays fuels. The ethanol is a big problem, as is the fact refineries long ago eliminated the additives to prevent fuel evaporation. The percentage of carbureted vehicles buying gas today is minimal, it’s not cost effective for them to keep the additives in today’s fuel recipes.

I’m not familiar enough with the 2bl carbs to know if the suffer from the same well plug issue that plagued the EARLY Q-Jets. If so, it’s an easy fix. You remove the pressed in plug, and carefully tap the base for a set screw. Many people will say smear JB weld or some other epoxy on the plug, but it’s a band aid fix. The heat cycles will eventually loosen the epoxy.

And regardless of what people say, the well plug issue was solved when Rochester started using solid aluminum plugs instead of the earlier brass cup plugs. The later slugs rarely leak.

 

Update: I took everyone’s advice which saved me a lot of time and money. I didn’t replace the starter and alternator, I trouble shot the electrical and found the steering housing behind the wheel the 3 screws were loose and the shifter was sloppy. I tightened that up then rang out the neutral safety switch with ohm meter. Found it’s happy spot and it cranked over and started. I’m a little confused on the blue and white wires that used to hook up to the alternator. Do I need them for the dash light (alternator light)? I checked the carburetor choke and noticed the choke was not closing when cold and throttle linkage depressed. The choke close spring doesn’t seem to have enough force to close it. It’s borderline closes when I manually close it, but not enough to do it on its own. Hard start seems to be the only thing wrong with the carburetor. Got the chassis service manual and will study it this weekend. I also need to change the heater core. Seems like I need to drop the wheel well enough to get to the outboard screw. Might be able to hold my tongue right and get a socket on it but reassembly might be rough. Also figured out the horn/battery junction terminal the relay had a piece on insulation that wedged it’s self between the relay terminals. Ordered a new one. Want to thank everyone for their help. This is my second classic wagon. My first one was a 65 Pontiac tempest custom wagon that I did a full frame off resto on. I sold it and have been kicking myself for years for selling it. Miss that car a lot. Ant help will be greatly appreciated.

 

Does the charging system work? If it works without the blue/white wires plugged in, then it has some kind of aftermarket alternator.

The choke not closing on a cold start is definitely a contributing factor in the hard starting. There is a procedure outlined in the service manual for adjusting the choke.

Start with a completely cold engine. Remove the air filter. Push the throttle to the floor, the choke flap should snap closed, and the fast idle screw should be on the highest step. If the choke isn’t closed, then you either bend the linkage for the choke flap, or loosen the set screws on the thermostatic choke heater coil. Gently rotate the housing until the choke flap closes, then go just a touch more. Tighten the screws.

Connect a tach to the engine, start it up. Once it’s running don’t touch the throttle. Set the fast idle speed with the fast idle adjustment screw, once again make sure the speed adjustment screw is on the highest step. Once set, and the engine has some heat in it, touch the throttle and the engine should drop to a lower speed.

 

The 2GC does not have the well plug leakage issue--Quadrajet only.