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Hi Everyone
In searching the archives I came across jackinmichigan's post dated 8/30/20. A lot of great information was provided by several members, but the issue I am having is more in depth.
Mine is a 66 Toronado Strato bench seat that has been stuck in the horizontal rear position since I have owned it.
Finally took the tracks off, cleaned the rails up and re-lubed the tracks only. There was significant leakage coming from the front & rear Gearnut(tilt) Assemblies. (1966 Fisher SM 10-15)
The solenoid is working fine as well as the switch and the coupler. Both tracks are in Phase per FSM 10-7 b.
With the seat unbolted from the floor and laid back every position works as they should. Also, taking a cordless drill & correct cable, all Gearnut assemblies work as they should.
Reconnecting all the cables and bolting the seat back down to the floor all I get is the solenoid clicking and I can visually see the cables torque, but nothing moves.
Seems to me that there is not enough power coming out of the transmission, or I need to re-lube it and/or the Gearnuts if I can figure out how to do that.
Would anyone have any experience on what could be the cause of this issue?
Are you using correct heavy gauge power wire to the seat motor? The power seat motor draws a lot of current, especially under load of seat weight and occupants.
Good thought to clean the tracks, the grease usually is gummy at best, rock hard at worst. I would suggest pulling all the cables from the 2 tracks and see if they spin with the switch engaged. Agree that the motor draws a lot of current. It is possible the motor needs to be pulled apart and cleaned as well, and not too likely, but the grease in the transmission also gets hard, causing it to not engage the correct cables, and/or putting a lot of drag on the motor.
Are you using correct heavy gauge power wire to the seat motor? The power seat motor draws a lot of current, especially under load of seat weight and occupants.
Yes, good point, but it is the correct stock wiring. Top spade on the solenoid is 12v+ and the circuit breaker and/or fuse hasn't blown.
Thinking about trying to get under there and attempt an amp reading from the motor under load. I can see the motor transmission spinning and the cables torque. Just doesn't seem to be enough power to move the tracks or levelers.
Thanks
Good thought to clean the tracks, the grease usually is gummy at best, rock hard at worst. I would suggest pulling all the cables from the 2 tracks and see if they spin with the switch engaged. Agree that the motor draws a lot of current. It is possible the motor needs to be pulled apart and cleaned as well, and not too likely, but the grease in the transmission also gets hard, causing it to not engage the correct cables, and/or putting a lot of drag on the motor.
I agree and the transmission, levelers and motor is where I'm leaning for a cleaning and new lube. 54 yrs. old and the lube is probably hardened wax. I did clean and re lube the tracks because they are easy to get too. Using a 20amp Dewalt cordless and everything moves as they should. You have another good point in that using the power seat circuit without the seat upholstery on it, now doesn't want to move, but the cables spin as they should when disconnected,
Thanks
Good thought to clean the tracks, the grease usually is gummy at best, rock hard at worst. I would suggest pulling all the cables from the 2 tracks and see if they spin with the switch engaged. Agree that the motor draws a lot of current. It is possible the motor needs to be pulled apart and cleaned as well, and not too likely, but the grease in the transmission also gets hard, causing it to not engage the correct cables, and/or putting a lot of drag on the motor.
I agree and the transmission, levelers and motor is where I'm leaning for a cleaning and new lube. 54 yrs. old and the lube is probably hardened wax. I did clean and re lube the tracks because they are easy to get too. Using a 20amp Dewalt cordless and everything moves as they should. You have another good point in that using the power seat circuit without the seat upholstery on it, now doesn't want to move, but the cables spin as they should when disconnected,
Thanks
Top spade on the solenoid is 12v+ and the circuit breaker and/or fuse hasn't blown.
Thinking about trying to get under there and attempt an amp reading from the motor under load.
Yes, amps (not volts) is relevant.
One thing to consider: Are you testing it with a standing 12-volt battery not connected to a running engine with alternator? Is the battery adequately charged?
How about the quality of the wire connections? Do you have a good solid ground (-) connection? Typically, the power seats ground to the floor through a short black jumper wire. Be sure the connections are clean to bare metal. (Analogous to the engine starter motor, the seat motor needs quality connections because the amp draw is high. The seat motor is typically less than 30-40 amps though.)
There's a lot of info and troubleshooting detail in the Fisher Body Service Manual regarding power seats, under both "Electrical" and "Power Seats" chapters. Do you have access to that Manual? See attached sample page from '70 manual, troubleshooting seats (chapter 16). There are seat adjusters like yours in the '70 manual.
There's a lot of info and troubleshooting detail in the Fisher Body Service Manual regarding power seats, under both "Electrical" and "Power Seats" chapters. Do you have access to that Manual? See attached sample page from '70 manual, troubleshooting seats (chapter 16). There are seat adjusters like yours in the '70 manual.
Yes, ground wire is stock & good, All connections have been sanded , electric cleaner applied and a tab of dielectric grease applied.
I do have the 1966 Fisher SM and have been working out of it. And thanks for the link, I will use it as well. I was fortunate enough to find another setup and it's on it's way. It was tested & works.
My plan is to tear into the one I have next week using the excellent directions cfair posted.
October 16th, 2020, 09:36 AM
