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4 way power seat chassis diagnostic

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Old Aug 24, 2024 | 08:16 AM
  #1  
Funkwagon455's Avatar
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From: Aledo, Texas
4 way power seat chassis diagnostic

So some history, I purchased two- four way power bucket seat chassis 25 years ago.. I am now ready to install one of these chassis and decided to do some maintenance and proofing before installing. I put one on a power supply and couldn’t get any activity from the drive motor. Lots of clicking from the relay but nothing at the motor. I removed the contacts from the relay and tried to directly apply power to the motor with no response. After opening the motor, everything inside looked great! No soot, little wear,no shorts/opens, general condition was wonderful! I decided to try the same on my second power chassis the next day. Same results, same internal condition!!! All indications would imply that the motors are bad, but based on internal condition I feel that maybe I’m missing something. Can someone please explain to me what I might be overlooking.
Old Aug 24, 2024 | 08:52 AM
  #2  
4speed455's Avatar
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From: Modesto CA
I followed this thread to get power seat motor going. In my case my motor would turn but would move slowly and not at all under any load, but maybe it can help you too.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...utlass-140310/
Old Aug 24, 2024 | 10:15 AM
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Loaded68W34's Avatar
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How/ where are you attaching ground to the track? What are you using as a power supply? These tracks need a good ground connection to the cross plate the motor is mounted to. There should be a ground wire that attaches to the plate and the outer rear floor mount stud. They also draw a good amount of current. Also, how are you directly powering the motor without the relay? To run the motor by itself, you need to ground the case; then apply power to the red wire and either the yellow or the green wire. Power to the red and green will make the motor spin one direction, power to the red and yellow will make the motor spin the opposite direction. FYI, since you have two tracks, you can turn one of them into a passenger track with some work. This requires switching the rear feet and modifying the switch wiring.








Last edited by Loaded68W34; Aug 24, 2024 at 10:20 AM.
Old Aug 24, 2024 | 11:02 AM
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jensenracing77's Avatar
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From: Brazil Indiana
These seat setups takes more amps to run that I thought they would. The factory used 10 gauge wire for them and anything smaller will not run the motor proper I have found. That said, most of these transmissions need taken apart and cleaned up and put back together with new grease. The tracks are often needing cleaned as well. The old lube has dried out on most of them and don't turn or slide very well. I have rebuild several of these and don't often have to replace many parts if any.
Old Aug 24, 2024 | 12:12 PM
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Funkwagon455's Avatar
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Ah-Ha!! Per Loaded68W34’s suggestion, I questioned my power supply. I was attempting to use a DC voltage supply in the avionics shop at my work. Today I used some alligator jumper wires from my Fluke kit to attach to the battery on my daily driver. It worked perfectly!!! Just needs a cosmetic freshen and fresh lubricant. Thanks for steering me in the right direction!!👍😀
Old Aug 24, 2024 | 12:53 PM
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Funkwagon455's Avatar
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Duplicate post, 😖😂
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