Sounds like a silly question but I have tried everything to remove this tar from a wheel well. The most efective thing I used so far is gas and even that takes tones of scrubbing. These wheel wells are from my W-30 and it sit since 1981 so this tar has been on there for a long time and dried out.

 

Have you tried lacquer thinner

 

 

Try oven cleaner?

 

wd40

 

X2 on the WD40. Also try lemon pledge, I use that s**t on everything!

 

Is this the red front fender well plastic? I don't think acetone or paint thinner would melt that kind of plastic, would it?

 

I use a portable propane torch. Just warm up the tar and it scrapes off like butter.

 

X2 on the oven cleaner.

 

I used oven cleaner on my junk inner fender and it stained the red of the plastic. I may soak a rag with WD40 and leave it sitting on the tar for a day. Maybe it will soak into the tar a little and soften it up.

 

Goo-Gone is the go-to for many adhesives and I'd give the Max Strength a try. I've never seen Goo-Gone damage any surface.

 

Diesel fuel works good won't damage your fenderwells..

 

x3 on the Wd40, but it has to soak in.

 

Eric an old saying applies, 'Like dissolves Like', tar is currentlu from Coal-Tar, Unlike asphalt cement, coal tar is resistant to damage from gasoline, diesel, oil, salt, and chemicals.
WD-40 applied to soak is the best. I soaked a turn signal housing in a covered can of gas for a week, barely softened that crud. WD-40 on a rag, wrapped around the housing in a ziplock bag, wiped off after a day. Course depends on how think of a plastering you have, time will tell.

 

Have you considered kerosene, I thought that was what the asphalt guys spray on the tools, I know WD 40 is amazing stuff I have used it to get concrete to release from glass/windsheild that was splashed on the glass from a cement mixer.

 

X2 on kerosene

 

I always use WD,laquer thinner and heat. Be real careful with the heat. Normaly if you soak it with WD it will almost fall off.

Greg

 

NOOOOOO!

Lacquer thinner WILL remove the tar... AND the plastic too.

Use paint pre-cleaner. This removes tar, oil, and adhesives without damage to paint or plastics. I've used it on tail light lenses with no ill effects. Goo Gone is the same stuff in a smaller consumer-sized package (and thus priced more per gallon).

 

thanks for correcting me joe I've used it on various things but never knew it would hurt plastic

 

X3 on kerosene....Tedd

 

Regular smelly oven cleaner seems to remove everything but the plastic.
Do not use the low-fume variety.
This stuff made all my plastic stuff look new.
Let it soak in a while and keep it wet for 15 minutes or so or more is better.
Scrub, rinse, and repeat if needed.

 

Mineral spirits sold under "paint thinner" at some stores will soften the tar even if a few years old. Leave the rag on the spot with another rag over the top in a open well ventilated area.

 

Go gone...used it on a brand new vinyl floor that a contractor left a hundred footprints from a driveway just recently tar sealed. Worked great. Do not soak the plastic! Place product on a rag allow to sit for a few seconds and lightly apply to plastic. Do this in stages and the results will be fine.

 

Yea,your right Ive only used laquer thinner on it for over 40 yrs and never melted wheel house plastic But what do I know.

Greg

 

I used diesel to degrease mine. I sprayed em down let it sit and power washed it with the burner on the power washer. looked great. I have also dipped parts into the chemical solution that the company my dad works for (redi strip) uses to degrease stuff. Usually I can only leave plastic stuff for 5 minutes tops. I can have cyl. heads degreased in by just dipping them for 10 minutes power wash and good. Essentially one of the main chemicals in that tank is the main ingredient in drano. Which is safe on pvc plumbing and plastics.

 

I soaked a rag with WD40 and let it sit on the tar and after about an hour it is starting to brake up. This is going to take alot of WD40 but at least it is working.

Thanks for all the help

 

Just a thought. What about engine brite ? That stuff is made to degrease engines and is safe for plastics under the hood. Might be cheaper than the wd.

 

I did the same to mine. It had overspray on it and I did a lot of wiping and it never softened the plastic.

 

I have 6 hours on the bottom side of this inner fender. I still have a long way to go. The tar is off but still need several more hours of wet sanding. This is my extra set that i am testing on. My original set will not need much work compared to this set.

 

Almost 4 more hours. I can't tell you how bad this sucks. This is not my line of work. What makes it worse is that I am not likely going to use these.

 

Next time try a bag of dry ice from safeway... set it on the surface in the inner fender, and cover with a towel. Come back in 20-30 mins with a puddy knife- the tar will flake off.

Saw a friend do this with thick 70's factory undercoating and it came off like it was nothing- and no gooey stinky mess of chemicals.

 

It may suck, but your results look pretty good to me. Keep going.

 

Looking good, if you don't use them you will be able to ask for more $$$ when you sell them.

 

True but I would never do this for the money. The time I have in them compared to the extra money will not likely put me at $10 per hour. I wouldn't do it if someone paid me $40 per hour. The only reason I am doing it is one to figure out how. Two, is to avoid doing something wrong to my good set from my car. I am getting a quote to have a set done but I am worried it will be to much money. That leaves me to do it.

 

X10 on the pre-cleaner, mineral Spirits and diesel. Try them all and see which preforms the best for you all 3 will be kind to the plastic.

 

I have done a few black sets, its one of the **** jobs you have to do during a restoration. Are the 70 fender wells the same as the 69 fender wells?

 

before and after. I lost track of the hours i have in these. I have not touched the top side of them but the top side don't need much. Both have 2 holes driled that should not be there. I am told i can fix them but i am not going to try. The original set to my car are much better than these but still not sure what set I will use.

 

OOPS!

I decided to try to fix the holes. The one i started with i should have done last. I cut shavings from another junk one i have and melted it into the bad spot. It was going real good and then I got it to hot and burned the plastic. Now i need to grind it back down a little and do it over. I will have to built it up a little so i can sand it smooth. I think i am in over my head on this part.

 

Eric those look really good, kudos!