I rebuilt the carb and fuel pump and got the car running only to find out the water pump was seized. Ordered a rebuilt water pump and hoses from Fusick (it also had the wrong radiator hoses ribbed universal), and when I took the crappy hoses off it had garbage buildup in the upper hose.

It appears to have the original radiator (not looking so healthy with some scrapes and dings in the front), so I ordered a new 3 row aluminum, the heater core was missing completely, so I ordered one for a gran prix (numbers cross referenced).

So here's the question.... is the thermostat a 180 or a 160 because I'm getting conflicting info (non AC car)? Since I'm already into the cooling I figured I'd just redo the entire thing.

Thanks

 

Did the heater core fit ?

 

Don't have the heater core yet (supposed to be here this week).

​​​​​​​I'll let you know.

 

Either will be fine. 180 might warm up a shade quicker. Remote possibility the 160 will stay open all the time and not regulate, esp since you already know there's crud in the system which will affect heat transfer.

Wouldn't hurt to run some flush thru it, just make sure it's safe for aluminum.

 

Use a 180 if you plan to run the car in winter, a 160 won't give you much heat.

 

The plan was to roll it out of the garage to flush the system. My concern was what I saw in the hose and that was enough to warrant getting a new radiator, and I certainly don't want debris clogging the new radiator or heater core.

Since I live in Central Florida and winter is about 3 to 4 weeks long (20's and 30's at night and 50's to 60's during the day), I think I'll go with the 160 degree.

 

I think the 160 will be better for me in Florida since we have short winters and much more heat in the summers.

 

The 160 will be open all the time. I'd be surprised if doesn't run 180-190.

 

In Florida 180 to 190 will be perfect. If she doesn't run warm enough, it's easy to swap to a 180 later, but I'd like to err on the side of caution especially when the temps run 95 to 100 from April / May to October / November.

I have a '68 Pontiac GTO convertible (clone) with a 455 and I run a 160 thermostat in that as well and the temps run around 195.

BTW, like your signature, but I also have a Chevelle too ('67). LOL.

 

Question is, what is the garbage built up in the hose? Rust/metal or mouse nest materials- etc... Surely you want to adress that before you install new stuff. Was car sitting a long time?

 

Rust and metal flakes. The system was sealed, but the car hasn't run for a number of years (I'm guessing 5 to 10 years). I got it running last week after a carb and fuel filter rebuild and she ran smooth (for like 2 to 3 minutes until I shut it down).

My plan is after seeing the debris to flush it out before any new parts are installed. Pulling the water pump today, so I'll see what that looks like then adjust my plan accordingly.

 

That's kinda my point. It may as well just be a restriction washer. I've always heard that the cooling system is inadequate if it can't get to the thermostat temperature. Likewise, I've never seen a V8 run 160⁰, either. LMAO
Thanks for compliment. The kid turns 13 next month, the ET has dropped a full second, and it's 11mph faster.

 

I agree with that.
Mine does - or at least it did. I ran a 160º thermostat for years; with no thermostat the engine ran around 140º. Last time I needed to replace the thermostat I put in a 180º high flow version.

 

Be careful swapping the thermostat often on your 394. The OE thermostat housings were made of aluminum and are prone to breaking. If that happens you can always have it repaired by a good welder. Hope I don't jinx you.

 

Thanks for the heads up. I just happen to know a good tig welder.... me.

 

OK guys ran into a problem.... pulling the water pump off I snapped 3 of the small 1/4" bolts off in the timing cover. I got the pump off, but it's rather ugly.

Does anyone have one I can buy, or am I relegated to drilling them out and retapping them? How does the timing cover come off? Here's a pic of what I was greeted with....

 

PM Charlie Jones.

 

Thanks, just sent him a PM.

 

BTW the heater core came today but haven't gotten into it yet, but looks like it'll fit perfect (tubes line up perfect).

 

My advice, since you're almost there, remove the timing cover and replace the timing set. Then extract the broken bolts if the timing cover isn't all corroded.

 

Let me know how it fits, part number and where you ordered it from. I just noticed my Starfire heater core has only one tube coming through the firewall. I wish I had noticed it before.

 

The only one I could find was on ebay. It showed a picture of a copper core, but came aluminum. Here's the link:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/284276406005

I'll let you know how it fits as soon as I get to it. Dealing with the timing cover issue first, then I'll get to the heater core.

 

I already figured since I was 3/4 of the way pregnant into this, I'd replace the chain and gears.

 

Ah yes the MAW's... be careful or it will turn into a complete engine rebuild and frame off restoration! Boy that sure has a lot of rust/crud. Was there only water in cooling system?

 

I did smell antifreeze, but it looked much worse than it was. the timing cover cleaned up nicely, but I still have to deal with broken bolts, so the timing cover has to come off.

Not sure if the oil pan can be pulled without pulling the engine, so that will dictate how far I go. Already had planned on giving it a good pressure washing under the hood, but it may go a little further than that. We'll see.

 

Just spoke to Mike at Fusick to order a new timing chain set, and they have the thermostat housings in stock. They made a duplicate copy of OEM and they produce them now, so I ordered one just to be on the safe side. The repop cost $40.