yellowone

According to the service manual I need to remove the r/front inner liner fender panel to access the blower motor. My problem is one of the previous owners installed rubber/plastic inner fender liners. There is no access panel in it. Anyone have photos of this panel so I know where to cut in the liner? Greatly appreciate it.

442Harv

The panel is the hole inner plastic fender, not hard to do, easier with wheel off.

joe_padavano

Every single Cutlass built by Oldsmobile in the 1972 model year came from the factory with plastic inner fenders. There is no hole. As noted, you remove the entire plastic inner fender. Expect the clip nuts on the bolts around the wheel opening to spin due to rusted bolts. At that point you are pulling the entire fender. Also, given the hassle to do this, plan on proactively replacing the heater core at the same time to avoid having to do this again in the near future.

yellowone

Thanks, Joe. I wonder why the manual says there is an access cover. But neither here nor there, it is irrelevant. The job is quite big anyway. THANKS, you are the KING!!!!!

joe_padavano

Actually, it doesn't. It says "Remove the right front fender filler panel." That's what Olds calls the inner fender. In fact, if you look at Figure 11-64 in the 1972 CSM, you'll see where it shows that the inner fender is referred to as a "filler plate". As you delve into the depths of the factory parts book, you'll find that there are a lot of "non-intuitive" names used for various parts.

yellowone

You are right I asumed filler panel, meant there was an access. Either way I have a lot of work ahead. Thanks again, you are the man. Have you ever thought about writing a book about the quips and quivers of the "A" body?

joe_padavano

You mean instead of giving it away here for free?

Koda

Like propeller shaft.

joe_padavano

Well, it IS a shaft that propels the vehicle.

yellowone

Yes, Joe, I would not hesitate to pay 89.99 for a well written book with good facts about my "A" body maybe more especially if it was illustrated

droldsmorland

What Joe said X10.
Been here done this....
If you let the clip nuts rotate it will rip the plastic inner well and you won't be able to refasten the well at those locations.
Try bolts by hand first. If they give any indication that they won't break free pull the fender. Use the required method(s) to break them free with the fender off, (penetrant, very light heat and hold the clip with vicegrips).
Reinstall with a light coat of anti-seize on everything. Clip nuts and bolts are reproduced.

Mark the fender shims and all critical locations well so it goes back on easily. Use masking tape on the door and fender edges.

Buy a USA made heater core and blower motor. If not be prepared to do this again shortly.
Clean all electrical grounds and positives.

Inspect the blend door seal and the hot cold cable adjustment replace/adjust as needed.

Test the blower motor off the car's connector before putting it together. Run it on all speeds for a few minutes.

Make sure you have the cooling line restrictor inline with the heater core(either a restrictor nipple off the intake or the valve with an AC car).

Pull the seat to have better underdash access and less neck stress.

Have fun!

joe_padavano

This, and also in my case the nut breaks loose from the sheet metal clip and just spins. Once the fender is off the car, I've been able to reach in with an open end wrench to hold the nut from spinning.

droldsmorland

Oh ya...forgot that part especially if you have a real rot box.

yellowone

Oh my, I think this is beyond my physical ability. I have a very bad back with 4 major surgeries under my belt and looking at my 5th with a 3 vertebrea fusion shortly. OMG

Frisbee_k9

Autographed...