Where do I get new head bolts for 62 394 ci ?

 

The bolts are reusable on these engines, I clean the threads on the bolts and thread chase the block. I have rebuilt several of these engines and haven't had a problem. I use thread sealer on the bolts when I assemble the engine and torque them to the factory specs.

Steve

 

Steve thank you for your help engine is being completely redone bored,crank turned heads done its been a long time since I have done this wanted something to do after retirement but didn't want this big of project but I have plenty to keep me moving forward

 

Does Ross Racing sell new bolts?

 

I will check thank you also

 

Are grade 8's the same as what is on your heads? If so they can be found at any Fastener, Napa or tractor supply type store.

Ross racing is a great place to buy rare parts but something as simple as harden bolts is a waste of money if bought from them.... Just my thoughts... YMMD.... Tedd

 

I don't think you want to use just grade 8 bolts. I think head bolts are like rod bolts, they stretch? Also, don't they have a small shoulder up by the head?

 

Ross Racing Engines sells stud kits for 394's .
But , as others have mentioned , they may be "overkill " on a stock rebuild .
Clean them up with a wire wheel and inspect them carefully .
Bolts with rust pits or "stretched" threads are cause for rejection .

"Grade 8 " for head or main cap bolts is a no no .

 

thank you Charlie I will have them checked

 

thank you Charlie I will get them checked

 

Your average nut and bolt supply house (read big box anything store) may supply "graded" fasteners. BUT be aware that they will likely be offshore(aka junk). I'm my personal experience this means far, far below USA metallurgy and rockwell standards.
Measure the OEM bolts for stretch if they are in-tolerance you are far better off reusing them.

ARP will/should have almost anything automotive and any size in USA metal.

arp-bolts.com

Call them with your bolt specifics. Length, head, shoulder, pitch etc.

Another note. Do not send a tap into the bolt holes nor use a die on the bolts. You want to use specific tools called "thread restorers" aka chases. You don't want to cut much metal off the existing thread interference surfaces of either. You just want to clean both. Taps n Dies will take off too much metal. But your machine shop already knew this.

I have this restorer kit from Snap on, this kit is identical except in price. This kit doesn't have everything but has the most commonly used threads. Don't be tempted to get one from harborjunk.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-48-pc...p-00942275000P

 

why not use a tap.if the threads have already been cut a tap isn't taking anymore metal. i just put some arp headstuds in a 6.5 diesel.and the 12x1.75 thread chaser from my snap-on kit was missing.well reading thru the directions that come with the head studs it says"if you do not have a thread chaser a tap will work fine"

 

First of all when it comes to nuts and bolts torque equals stretch. After 50 plus years on these engines do you think that a bolt or stud is going to return to it's original length? Question..on the final torque did you ever break a bolt off? Remember that feeling and the flash of dollar signs going thru your head as you start to remove the head again. Get new bolts or studs!
Dennis

 

Tractor Supply has a big inventory of bolts but I don't know if they have the right tensile strength. Might be worth checking.

 

Does the term elastic yield mean anything to you?

 

Cylinder head (and main cap) bolts are specially designed for the purpose .
They have special strength and tensile properties .
Ordinary bolts , grade 8 or not , are a NO NO !

 

If you have ever looked at a set of ARP bolts compared to any hardware store generic bolts you know why they are expensive. I have reused engine bolts many times over the years but on the last engine I built back in the 90s I was torqueing down the last head bolt and heard a loud "Bang". I removed it and there was a 1/8" wide hole right thru the center of the thread area, I was lucky to get it out in one piece...

 

Take a look at the top of the head bolt and there will be some symbols or dashes. These are the identifying marks of the bolt. Go to the internet and do a search for " bolt identifying marks" or something like that and somewhere you will find a picture of numerous bolt heads with their identifying marks and info on the bolt.
Dennis

 

Isn't yield by its nature non-elastic?

 

Elastic is a product of yield. Yield is the located in the area of the bolt or stud where stretch occurs. This area is commonly the threads or the shank when the fastener has been manufactured with a skinny downed shank. Hence the fastener breaking in the threads of a normal bolt when over torqued or over used and in the shank of the skinny bolt. The fastener does retain some elasticity, but never returns to the original length when removed from the engine. And, you never know where the fastener is in it's yield range, definition of yield is to give up, so buy new fasters before you to hear that heart stopping BANG!
Dennis

 

Thanks, but this is what I was referring to. In the elastic range there is no yield, which occurs in the plastic range.

 

Do I receive some kind of certificate or degree after reading all this stuff?

 

head bolts thank you all for the info I will be getting new ones better to be safe