Does anyone have experience with any place that recoats bolts and miscellaneous parts on the car? I would like to have my bolts re coated and many of the small brackets and parts. In the past I would paint them but if the price is not crazy I would rather recoat these on this car.

 

I had the valve covers on my 64 98 powder coated. I wonder if a shop that does powder coating could do zinc phosphate coating? Isn't the zinc phosphate coating process similar to the way chrome is plated onto a bumper (ie. electrolytic coating)? FWIW, when I had my valve covers powder coated it was reasonably priced and they did a decent job. The only problem is that I had to ensure they were SUPER CLEAN. I'm sure you would have to do the same before having your bolts and brakets zinc plated.

 

eric, they make kits so you can do it yourself.

 

My powder coat guy only does powder coat. I will be taking him a big load of parts next week. I don't know much about phosphate/zinc processes or even what prices it is to have it done.

 

I had thought about that but if the price is not to bad to have it done I would rather them do it. I just don't know enough about it to know if one place is better than another to have it done. 507olds said he thought a member here does it but I can't remember who it was.... Brian?

 

I've been happy with the work done by Sparkys carb service in Wisconsin. He redid my carb and has also replated lots of other under hood parts for my car in various factory finishes. Not sure how his prices compare but I'm happy with the quality...

 

I have done some looking around to have some of mine re-done. What i have found so far is there were a number of different coatings. Some the high end restore guys probably know all the correct names and colours. I think that's the thing for them getting all the exact correct finishes. It's an art in itself.
Basically there is a couple different zinc, cadmium, black phoshate, pickering, anodizes aluminium, and chrome to name a few. All the coating need to have super clean parts. Acid etching, etc. Yes they do sell kits, Look at POR-15 web site or on the web for DIY. It is all pretty nasty stuff. Not something to pour down the sink after finishing. I am going to get mine done by the pro's.
I could quote prices but it's not relative from here in Canada.
Mike

 

How bout this stuf?

Rust-Oleum Professional Professional Flat Gray Cold Galvanizing Compound

 

Eastwood sells a variety of DIY plating kits for small parts like that. See if they have the finish you seek. I wonder how long the finishes last though.
They also have similar paints if you go that way. However I was not impressed with the silver cad paint though. Walmart 'aluminum' beat it by a mile.
I found that Rustoleum high-heat BBQ flat black gives a very close finish to the black oxide parts - tough too.

 

If POR 15 and Rust-o-leum make DIY coatings I would try one of those. They are undoubtedley pretty cheap and I've only ever been happy with products from these two companies. If you don't like the results you can always spend more money on having it professionally done.

 

I have used the cold galvinized. I didn't find it very good. Kind of like grey paint that fish eyes to give the galvinized "look". If your just looking for a good paint/spay on coating try Glyptol. Colour is aluminium/greyish. Used in the electrical industry for a coating. Very durable.
Mike

 

Another way to get your bolts that black phosphate look is a rust converter. I know a lot of my bolts had rust. I didn't want to buy all new or spend a lot of time wire wheeling them. Plus after wire wheeling and painting them they tend to re-rust quickly. Especially if the coating is thin. A heavy coat and you chip the paint on install, and rust. I experimented a little.
Brush heavy rust off, then rust converter. Bolts get black and hard coating. A little BBQ paint as Rob mentioned and they look pretty good. And wont rust.
I have tried the paint coating that look like cadium, zinc etc and I wasn't satisfied with the results. It doesn't "really" look like the plating proccesses.
All depends on the level of restore your loooking for.

Mike

Mike

 

Eric, the phosphate plating is very easy to do. I get my chemicals from Palmetto Enterprises.


Manganese phosphate is dark gray to black and used for hardware and clips.
Zinc phosphate is a lighter gray used for stamped steel brackets and hood hinges
http://www.palmettoenterprises.net/P...-Welcome-.html

Joffroi, one of our very nice members here got with me to write a short "how to" artical on phosphate plating and posted this on his Oldsmobile Central website. The artical shows before and after plating photos of my hood latch and catch.
http://www.oldsmobilecentral.com/v4/...-old-parts.php

Steve Orr at Old School Plating does all of my silver and gold cyanide cadmium plating and clear zinc plating (shiny silver with a blueish tint). Steve is a great car guy to boot, and has one of the nicest '70 L78 Chevelles you will ever see (can I say that here?).
http://www.oldschoolplating.com/

I have also used Steve Gregori for some clear zinc plating of hardware with some success.
http://www.brakeboosters.com/

One bit of advise, if you send out some parts to be plated, mark the parts very well with what type of plating is required. I would also send out as much as possible for somewhat of a price break, rather that a few parts at a time.

I hope this helps

 

Eric,
I think Mike (66-3X2 442) in B-ham Alabama does some plating???

Don W

 

http://www.sparkyscarbs.com
66-3x2
yes Mike does do plating

 

I use this shop, two minutes from my house.

www.plymouthplating.com

 

I think that zinc phosphate is considered self etching , it's used in aircraft for aluminum surfaces mainly. Not sure if it's used for Powder Coating or not due to it's properties

 

ditto the above. also caswell plating has the kits and supplies if you want to do it yourself.

 

Yes I have done plating for pay but not any more. It's labor intensive and nobody wants to pay what it's worth. I still do my own and have for over 20 years. I rarely blast parts to plate,I degrease them and strip them with muriatic acid. Muruatic acid is very strong and dangerous to use but to me it gives the best results. It works especially well on hood hinges,hood latches,parking brake mechanisms etc. and where you can't blast behind the hard to get to places. Blasting leaves a funky finish on the parts,the acid leaves it natural looking. If you leave the parts in the acid too long,it will etch the metal. It takes a lot of practice using acid to get the best results but I think it's worth it. Always use the acid OUTDOORS and never leave in uncovered in an enclosed area or it will rust everything overnight. Always wear googles & gloves when using the acid. Here's the guy who I get my phosphate products from.

Scott Owens
dba Palmetto Enterprises
864-907-4751

He sells on eBay also and even though there are others,he uses the best materials to make it. So don't go for the cheaper stuff,use his and you won't be sorry His dad Vernon use to be the guy but he retired. Vernon taught me more about plating than anybody and was always friendly and helpful. You will need stainless or glass pans to do the plating,regular metal will not work,the phosphate adheres to it. You can buy stainless pans @ restaurant supply places and there's even some used available. Do not be scared to try it,it's easy when you get the hang of it and you won't be sorry when you learn how. They tell you to neutralize the acid after use with something like baking soda/water solution or the acid will continue to eat @ the parts. I have developed a way to avoid using baking soda because it leaves a film on the parts. When I get the phosphate solution hot and ready,I start dipping the parts in the acid. When the parts are clean and ready,I use a high pressure hose to wash the parts free of the acid. You have to work quick to keep the parts from flash rusting but it can be done. When the parts come out of the phosphate solution,they have to be covered right away with WD 40 to displace the water. After the parts sit for a while,wipe them down as good as you can with a rag or towel and reapply WD 40. Like I said,it takes practice practice practice to get it right but when you do,it's worth it. I will be happy to help anybody who really wants to learn how to do it. This stuff has to be passed down or the process will die. Another tidbit,I use a turkey deep fryer base for heat. I bought mine @ Academy Sports and it was cheap and very good for the purpose. You can also use the stainless pan that comes with the fryer but it's not the best pan to use because of the shape. The rectangle stainless pans used in restaurants are the best ones to use. When plating hood hinges,you leave the springs in place so the acid will clean between the coils and the plating will work better also. I hope this helps.

Mike

 

thanks for the help. I have heard it takes time to get it right. I am still not sure what I am going to do. I need to figure it out soon because I will start putting the chassis back together in 3 or 4 weeks. I will try to call Sparky's and get an idea of price first.

 

The problem with sending your plating out to somebody is you never send everything. You always forget something and then you have to either shortcut it or send it in for plating(additional costs). If you're going to be restoring cars and want them right,learn the process and do it yourself. The chemicals are not that expensive and they last. If you keep them in a dark container like a red gas can and out of the sunlight,they never wear out. You can reuse them over and over. I've done parts for cars that brought over a $100K and I'm a dumb@$$,so if I can do it,anybody can.

 

Eric - there are probably a few places in Terre Haute that will do plating. Here is one link for places (even one in Brazil)http://www.yellowpages.com/terre-haute-in/metal-plating

 

How about terminology? I see silver, black, gold and grey coatings. What are each one called?

 

Im probably spoiled because I have a shop around the corner. Like Mike said theres always more stuff to plate. I usually get a batch of parts, plate them, and find another batch as I go. The guy I deal with is cheap, he is an OEM plater so the little guys like me get plating for almost nothing. Even did one of my backing plates for free.

Some of the work Jerry has done for me..
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No wonder your stuff looks so good Jasen.