Since the carb rebuild was accomplished with minimal drama today I rewarded the car with a good ol' fashion wurshin'. Wasn't very dirty, just a bit dusty from sitting too long. Of course I had to take it on the obligatory post wash water blow out cruise, you know for safety sake. .

 

Great looking car, always take mine for a good rip down the highway after washing it! 👍

 

Not what I did to my car but what I did in my in my garage. I had an old Oldsmobile dealer sign, an LED light strip and gorilla double sided tape. Here is the result....pic.

Here is a night shot

 

Today I got my '55 back from the workshop, quite a lot of things had been fixed by the dealer I bought it from. 50 % of the repair paid the dealer....
What was repaired:
Oil pan gasket, oil and oil filter changed
Broken bolt on passenger side leaf spring
Brake hose at master brake cylinder
rear diff opended, checked, oil changed
Hydramatic: extension housing bearing changed
Rear wheel bearings on both sides changed

Now it drives like new!

 

I swapped out my jetaway for a turbo 350. Pretty much an in and out swap. I needed a new dip stick and tube, and a kick down cable. I previously added an Ebrock carb on a half inch spacer. The Ebrock has a linkage that accepts the kick down cable.

 

Just got my 71 Cutlass 350/350 put of body shop jail about a month and a half ago. She was there for 6 years
So far I've replaced:

Timing chain
Spark plugs
Coil
Ohmed out my spark plug wires, replaced one
Had the carb rebuilt
Replaced 1 collapsed lifter
Performed a compression test (All cylinders at 110 except 2 were at 120)
Tomorrow I plan on replacing ALL the valve springs and valve seals (She's still running a bit rough and she is breaking up at high RPMs. I'm thinking weak springs)
I picked up a 200R4 for $155 couple days ago, will probably be replacing that sometime this Fall
Also plan on putting some a pillar gauges in

 

The 1980 Oldsmobile Omega V6 2.8L
I bought it on August 14th, 2025 for €2,450.
The car was imported from the US in 1983 and underwent an approval inspection in the Netherlands.
It has been standing still ever since.
10,000 miles on the odometer, and those were most likely driven in the US.

Why US‑spec?
Complete red taillights, side markers that stay on continuously, miles-only speedometer, black rubber strips on the heavier bumpers, headlights.
Someone had started restoring it but couldn’t finish due to passing away.
(........) bought it afterwards and sold it to me after it sat for another six months.

It had a new fuel pump installed. Later replaced because it wasn’t strong enough.
Fuel lines had been renewed.
Brake lines had been renewed.
The underside had received an anti‑rust treatment.
Inner fender panels were replaced.
Some bodywork had been done.
That’s how I bought it.

🔧 What I’ve done

• New battery
• New ignition system
• New spark plugs and plug wires
• Rebuilt Rochester Varajet II 2SE
• Oil changed and flushed
• Cooling system flushed and coolant added instead of water
• Water pump pipe repaired
• Starter motor rebuilt
• Intake manifold gaskets replaced
• Valve cover gaskets replaced
• New tires
• New brake pads and wheel cylinders
• Section of flexible exhaust welded in
• Lighting routed through relays, lots of new wiring
• New fuel pump and routed through relay
• Thermostat housing with thermostat installed
• Aftermarket roof resealed due to leakage
• Oil changed a second time
• Both radiator hoses replaced
• Tachometer installed
• Vacuum gauge installed
• All emissions hoses and valves blocked off except ignition, brake booster, and PCV
• New PCV valve
• Front belt replaced
• February 2026 – Passed APK inspection, valid until 2028
• Screen installed
• Car radio installed as amplifier
• Front speakers replaced
• Fan routed through relay
• Engine temperature sensor replaced
• Wheel alignment done

🛠️ Still to do

• New headliner
• Paint plastic interior parts (light grey)
• New carpet (grey)
• (!) Change transmission fluid
• (!) Change differential oil
• Inspect fuel tank
• Polish car and chrome
• Remove aftermarket roof, close roof, glue vinyl top
• Bumper fillers
• Parking lights on with engine running
• Connect wipers through relay
• Connect all windows through relays
• Fix door locks
• Door locks / ignition lock
• Lubricate all moving parts in all four doors

 

I had my car sanded and buffed this week it turned out fabulous

 

Looks great! I will probably do mine after I finish up some mechanical jobs.

 

Started the process of refurbishing the wheel covers from my 66 442. Disassemble, polish, paint, and reassemble.

 

I put my '64 Dynamic on the lift today to get ready for the push to spring driving season. Maybe I'm crazy, but I don't trust the "Quick Jack" entirely. It's only 66" long and the distance between the proper jacking points is about seven feet. I hoisted the car then I put jack stands under the 4 corners so it's supported at the jack points, not some random location along the frame. Being a convertible, I'm always nervous about body flex when I hoist the car. And I don't trust jack stands entirely either, so once the car was securely on the jack stands, I raised the hoist until it just touches the frame rail- in case a jack stand slips or something. I just get really nervous about crawling around under the car out in my barn.

Then I cleaned the oil pan and the bottom of the engine, around the bell housing and rear of the engine, the oil filter and starter- everything I could get at from below. There's a small leak somewhere and I want to find it. I pulled the flywheel inspection plate- it's a 394 with a rotohydramatic. I'm worried the leak might be the rear main seal, but the flywheel is clean and dry. I started it up and searched for the leak- there's a pretty good drip coming down oil pan side of the flywheel cover, looks like it's coming from the oil pan gasket at the bottom of the block, the lowest point along the oil pan. I'm going to take that as a good sign, pull the oil pan and be extra careful to seal that gasket. I really hope that fixes the issue.

That's the day on the car for me. It was only a couple hours. I'll get deep into this thing real soon. Good weather is coming and I have a show I want to attend in May.

 

Took it for a road test- hour out to cars and coffee, mini golf, and lunch with the kiddo on the way back. Good day!

 

Started it for the first time in 18 months.

 

Hi guys,

Last week I did some basic mechanical maintenance doing an oil/filter change, front end lube, and checking/topping off all other fluids.

Today I started in on general cleaning/detailing. My goal for the day was to clean and polish all the chrome parts because that's what I hate to do the most! 😉 Got both bumpers, tail pipe extensions, all 4 repro SS1's, air cleaner cover, and valve covers done.

 

I'll stop by while you're cleaning chrome and you can do mine too LOL . I don't like it much either but it sure looks good when it's done. Have fun.

 

Chris - if you keep it up with the chrome polishing you're going to rub it off the car.
Looks great! I finally took mine out for a ride the week before last, we had rain and miserable weather all last week. Even today early this morning it was 27f deg.

 

Sure, bring it on by . . . NOT! 🤣 Tomorrow I'll start in on detailing the body panels, and hopefully finish up Friday with cleaning/conditioning the vinyl roof. Come on by and I'll put you to work! 😃

 

Thanks Art! Nice that you've been able to get out and enjoy yours. I've only had mine out around the neighborhood a couple of times. I was hoping to go to our 1st large local cruise-in Friday but it's looking like rain right now. There will be plenty of events to choose from soon though.

 

Not today but pretty recently installed a new TCI Street Fighter TH350 and a matching series 2400-2600 converter behind my SBO after the trans it replaced failed on my way back from an Orlando-area car show - also ended up needing to install a 9x11 trans cooler ahead of the radiator to keep its temps below 200*.

Last and maybe only coincidentally, I had to install a Lokar carb-mounted kickdown cable since the pedal-mounted cable began hanging up preventing smooth acceleration movement.

 

Remember when I tested the battery? Had no problems, I cranked it for a few seconds to get the oil moving, stopped then gas pedal to the floor once, cranked it a few more seconds and it fired right up. It hadn't ran since November 14.

 

.
That's great! I knew the bowl would be empty after sitting all Winter and I'd have to pump it several times upfront to even get it to fire. Wasn't too bad though.

 

Try not to start it that way. Pump the gas pedal to the floor once, that sets the choke and throttle blades, when you pump it again it can cause the linkage to disengage the choke blade and then you'll have a hard time starting. While you are cranking the fuel pump is filling the bowl so even though you are pumping the gas pedal the bowl is still empty so it's not doing anything until the bowl fills. The gas is pulled down into the engine by vacuum from the carb so there's no need to 'give it a squirt'. Then once it turns over and starts the heat from the riser will cause the blade for the choke to relax and open up a little and keep it in the high rev. I'm not sure on yours if the rev comes down automatically or you have to kick it down after it's warmed up little.

 

I exceeded my expectations this morning/afternoon completing the detailing of all the body panels, cleaning all the glass, and cleaning/conditioning the vinyl roof. She's now ready to rock & roll as soon as the weather will cooperate.

 

Such a beautiful car! Looks like she's all ready for some new trophies this season. Looking forward to pictures of the shows.
I want to apologize for mentioning how to start the car. I get carried away sometimes with my thoughts and giving my input when none was needed (or perhaps wanted). My older brother would say to me when I was a kid, "I wish you had a couple of valves on the side of your head I could turn to shut you up".

 

Thanks Art, I sincerely appreciate your kind comments about my car! I'm sure looking forward to getting it out soon and posting a bunch of pics for you guys as usual. No problem with your advice, I know you were only trying to be helpful. When I bought the car the seller gave me tips on starting procedures for certain conditions, one of which was starting after sitting a long time and those tips have always worked so that's what I've always done. Just an FYI, once it's started for the day, no more pumping to start, just turn the key and she fires right up. 😃

 

Glad we're good. 👍

 

At long last, started last December, I got my exhaust cut up, adjusted and welded back together so the mufflers are tucked up higher and almost completely out of sight. Had to adjust the tail pipes as well. Also ordered a set of UMI sway bars for the car, the rear is installed since I was working with the tail pipes. The front will get installed this coming week if all goes well.

Had it out today for a drive, topped off the transmission fluid since I dropped the pan over the winter for a leaking gasket and installed a new set of speedometer gears so the dash gauge reads correctly. It’s reading about 5mph slower than actual but I can live with that. It was reading 30mph faster. Still have stuff to do but nice to know it’s ready to roll when I want to use it.

 

took the car out for a drive today. I sure like driving it they don't make em like they used to.

 

[QUOTE=Horsepower;167573
took the car out for a drive today. I sure like driving it they don't make em like they used to.[/QUOTE]

Nice, glad you were able to get out and enjoy your ride! 👍

 

Installed the UMI front sway bar this morning with only one issue cropping up. I pulled the threads out of the frame on two bolts, one on each side. Luckily my wife’s uncle is a retired machinist and he had a 12mm 1.75 pitch tap and drill bit I could borrow. Picked up a couple 10.9 grade 12mm bolts on the way home and got to it. Got it settled with no drama and tightened up the four bolts and the two end links and took it for a drive. Dropped off the tap and drill bit but found Uncle was off on his Triumph taking in a beautiful afternoon. I was too, on four wheels. Took some long sweeping bends and a couple on/off ramps at 50 and it stays flat, big improvement with the new sway bars. All around town and some back roads it was locked down and very nice to drive as well. The UMI bars get 5 stars from me, glad I took the plunge and bought’em, made a noticeable difference in driving performance and control.

 

The car looks great, Chris, she’s a real looker for sure! 👍

 

Hi Mike - You beat me to posting! Thanks for the compliment on my car, it is very much appreciated! Detailing is easy, what I really admire is guys like you with mechanical skills that can dive into a project like adding the sway bars like you did. Well done! 👍 I'm glad the ride is much improved for you and that the quality of the sway bars are good! Enjoy! 😃

 

After my first car show of the season, I had some time to take care of cleaning the white lettering on my Coopers. And no bleche white...I just used Meguiars natural shine protectant and fine steel wool.

 

Nice job, they look good! 👍 I found that "Mr. Clean Magic Eraser" pads work very well on white lettering.

 

I'll keep that in mind. Do they need to be wet and are they messy to work with?

 

They have to be dampened, then squeeze the vast majority of water out. If you've squeezed most of the water out it shouldn't run down onto the tire when your scrubbing on the letter. I do hold a folded towel against the tire below the letter I'm working on with my left hand while scrubbing with my right just in case a little water does leak out. I don't find them messy at all.

 

Thanks for that tip. At least with the Coopers, they get back to white......

 

You're welcome. 😃

 

Took the ‘80 out again for a couple hours this afternoon and tore into the dash when I got it back in the garage. The speedo was bouncing around and the new cable was making noise in the dash and under the car. I took my gage cluster out and replaced an LED bulb the gave up prematurely so the cluster is all lit up again, I pulled the cable out of the tube and sprayed it down with graphite. Reinstalled and assembled the dash again. It was much better but not perfect when I took it for a drive, hopefully it’ll work in the graphite and get better with more miles driven. Beyond that it’s running well and driving fine, puts a smile on my face every time!

 

Added the passenger bucket and started on driver side. Working on my new carpet install along side it.