What bit did ya'll use
What bit did ya'll use
It's time to drill a pilot shaft hole in the forged crank from my 67 330. Engine is out of the car, runs good with no leaks so I do not want to remove the crank. What kind of bit did you guys use, I have a heavy duty 1/2 inch drill and lots of 3 in 1 oil. Thanks.
Obviously you must already have a bearing/bushing that will fit the existing counter bore in the end of the crankshaft... If so, as long as that bearing supports a portion of the pilot shaft to prevent it from wobbling, the necessary clearance can be drilled in almost any manner... However, I would remove as little material as possible since you are attempting to do it by hand, and in the off chance you will want to have it redone by a shop...
You must insure that the hole that is drilled is perfectly on center and parallel to the crank. You stand the chance of a terrible rattle in the shifter as well as potentially destroying the bearings in the transmission if it is mis-drilled.
Thanks, I read a previous post where a Dorman 690-023 bushing would work well with the pilot shaft. I was planning to use a 11/16 bit and I was wondering what brand of bit you guys thought would work the best? Thanks again.
You can do what you want however you will surely end up with an off center hole, that will also be out of round and not suitable for locating a bearing. This is not a hand held operation. The drill bit will walk. Never use a drill bit to open a prior drilled hole because a drill bit needs to be touching at the center of the work. My opinion after Forty years of cutting tools application speaking. Good luck.
Wayne
Wayne
i used a 3/4 bit i think..i gotta look at it..cant remeber..but believe it was 3/4...i got the engine up on a table and took my time i used a 1/2 drill as slow as it would go, and it drilled like butter...theres a divit to start the bit..i didnt start with anything smaller..i made sure it was level and centered..and no issues..
it was around 3/8 inch deeper, that i needed...so i felt good about it...i mocked it 5 or 6 times, and used clay to make sure after the drill..i wanted 1/8 inch more than i needed, for heat growth etc....and its strictly clearance..car is together and driving with no issues or worries, and i dont even think about it anymore unless i read something like this
i read all over the net how hard the crank was etc, and it was really soft..really soft..id never do it with the engine in the car...no way...
i used a brand new bit i bought off the snap on tool truck...no harbor freight stuff...worked for me..i felt i had enough experience to tackle the job and know how to use a drill...i bought a drill at a yard sale..it takes 2 people to hold it..lol...its quite the monster and came from an iron worker....but has a variable switch/built in rheostat and can turn really slow..some oil and it pushed like butter..worked for me...id do it again...its a totally stock low mile smogger 455 that never spins high....
it was around 3/8 inch deeper, that i needed...so i felt good about it...i mocked it 5 or 6 times, and used clay to make sure after the drill..i wanted 1/8 inch more than i needed, for heat growth etc....and its strictly clearance..car is together and driving with no issues or worries, and i dont even think about it anymore unless i read something like this
i read all over the net how hard the crank was etc, and it was really soft..really soft..id never do it with the engine in the car...no way...
i used a brand new bit i bought off the snap on tool truck...no harbor freight stuff...worked for me..i felt i had enough experience to tackle the job and know how to use a drill...i bought a drill at a yard sale..it takes 2 people to hold it..lol...its quite the monster and came from an iron worker....but has a variable switch/built in rheostat and can turn really slow..some oil and it pushed like butter..worked for me...id do it again...its a totally stock low mile smogger 455 that never spins high....
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