want to change over to elec choke
April 3rd, 2010, 07:22 PM
#1
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Brooklyn N.Y
Posts: 295
want to change over to elec choke
I wanted to change over to an electric choke.having a problem where the choke tube would take about 20 minutes for the heat to reach the tube.is there any good elec chokes out there.and how do you block off the original choke tube spot in the intake.and how does the wiring go to elec choke thanks guys for the input.I have a 455 engine with a remanuf quadrajet ending in 251
April 3rd, 2010, 07:42 PM
#2
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 644
What are the digits before 251?
If they are 7029 or just 29, I might be interested in buying it from you and then you could just buy one with an electric choke already on it. Most of them were converted over a long time ago anyway. Delco used to make a kit for it. I don't know if it is still available or not. So did Carter, I think.
If they are 7029 or just 29, I might be interested in buying it from you and then you could just buy one with an electric choke already on it. Most of them were converted over a long time ago anyway. Delco used to make a kit for it. I don't know if it is still available or not. So did Carter, I think.
April 3rd, 2010, 08:33 PM
#3
Old(s) Fart
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,668
I wanted to change over to an electric choke.having a problem where the choke tube would take about 20 minutes for the heat to reach the tube.is there any good elec chokes out there.and how do you block off the original choke tube spot in the intake.and how does the wiring go to elec choke thanks guys for the input.I have a 455 engine with a remanuf quadrajet ending in 251
There's no need to plug the holes in the choke stove. Just leave them.
March 12th, 2024, 10:26 AM
#4
5th Grade Dreaming
Join Date: May 2022
Location: Salt Lake City
Posts: 74
Electric choke 68 455
[QUOTE=joe_padavano;163603]GM used electric choke coils on the 1980s pickups. Just get a replacement coil from RockAuto. It bolts right into the choke housing on your Qjet. One way to wire it is like this, which is how the factory did it with the V6 cars with gauges:
There's no need to plug the holes in the choke stove. Just leave them.
So I have the diagram. I have wired everything as suggested except I am having a hard time telling which wire from the alternator goes to the gen light. My alternator has a pigtail with the two wires. However, on the wiring diagram in the csm, both wires go to the voltage regulator. I have a tic toc with oil pressure gauge and temp gauge. Otherwise I would just do the brass T and idiot light trick. Any suggestions on which wire from the alternator I can use for my 12v keyed?
There's no need to plug the holes in the choke stove. Just leave them.
So I have the diagram. I have wired everything as suggested except I am having a hard time telling which wire from the alternator goes to the gen light. My alternator has a pigtail with the two wires. However, on the wiring diagram in the csm, both wires go to the voltage regulator. I have a tic toc with oil pressure gauge and temp gauge. Otherwise I would just do the brass T and idiot light trick. Any suggestions on which wire from the alternator I can use for my 12v keyed?
March 12th, 2024, 10:51 AM
#5
Old(s) Fart
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,668
[QUOTE=Pigs Fly Garage;1558435]
That diagram is for an internally-regulated alternator. If you still have the original 10DN externally regulated alternator, the wire you want is the brown one from the voltage regulator. The point is not that this is 12V keyed, but that it only provides power when the alternator is turning - otherwise leaving the key on will prematurely heat up the choke coil. You can also still use the brass tee fitting on the oil pressure. I've done that many times. Arrange the tee so one leg goes down, one up (put the gauge sender there), and one horizontal (the switch goes there).
GM used electric choke coils on the 1980s pickups. Just get a replacement coil from RockAuto. It bolts right into the choke housing on your Qjet. One way to wire it is like this, which is how the factory did it with the V6 cars with gauges:
There's no need to plug the holes in the choke stove. Just leave them.
So I have the diagram. I have wired everything as suggested except I am having a hard time telling which wire from the alternator goes to the gen light. My alternator has a pigtail with the two wires. However, on the wiring diagram in the csm, both wires go to the voltage regulator. I have a tic toc with oil pressure gauge and temp gauge. Otherwise I would just do the brass T and idiot light trick. Any suggestions on which wire from the alternator I can use for my 12v keyed?
There's no need to plug the holes in the choke stove. Just leave them.
So I have the diagram. I have wired everything as suggested except I am having a hard time telling which wire from the alternator goes to the gen light. My alternator has a pigtail with the two wires. However, on the wiring diagram in the csm, both wires go to the voltage regulator. I have a tic toc with oil pressure gauge and temp gauge. Otherwise I would just do the brass T and idiot light trick. Any suggestions on which wire from the alternator I can use for my 12v keyed?
March 12th, 2024, 11:45 AM
#6
5th Grade Dreaming
Join Date: May 2022
Location: Salt Lake City
Posts: 74
[QUOTE=joe_padavano;1558446]
Thanks as always, Joe. I suppose I will use the brown wire at the "4" terminal on the voltage regulator since I already have the switch and a harness taped...very neatly. You're the best oldsmobile person, truly. This 4bbl conversion has gone really well. This is the "last thing." Hahaha Hahaha Hahaha
That diagram is for an internally-regulated alternator. If you still have the original 10DN externally regulated alternator, the wire you want is the brown one from the voltage regulator. The point is not that this is 12V keyed, but that it only provides power when the alternator is turning - otherwise leaving the key on will prematurely heat up the choke coil. You can also still use the brass tee fitting on the oil pressure. I've done that many times. Arrange the tee so one leg goes down, one up (put the gauge sender there), and one horizontal (the switch goes there).
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