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Earliest known W36 type stripes and unmistakable future 1968 Cutlass/4-4-2 body shape, these men were way ahead of their time.
So it's backwards? nobody's perfect.
Earliest known W36 type stripes and unmistakable future 1968 Cutlass/4-4-2 body shape, these men were way ahead of their time.
So it's backwards? nobody's perfect.
Well, the good news is that the fender emblems are in the correct place for a W36 car. The bad news is that the stripe was painted too wide (the outside of the outer pinstripes should be even with the edges of the 4 and the 2). Of course, this "factory original" car also has the one-of-none four spoke wheel for 1968.
I apologize for my ignorance; I’m new to the world of Oldsmobile. Aside from the correct placement of the stripe (which I now understand thanks to this thread) how do I know it is a W36 stripe car? Is it in the VIN? Basically if I was interested in buying a ’68 442 with the stripe how would I know other then visually if it is a stripe car?
I apologize for my ignorance; I’m new to the world of Oldsmobile. Aside from the correct placement of the stripe (which I now understand thanks to this thread) how do I know it is a W36 stripe car? Is it in the VIN? Basically if I was interested in buying a ’68 442 with the stripe how would I know other then visually if it is a stripe car?
Thanks,
Mike
W36 was the RPO (regular production option) code number for the side stripe in 1968. The only place it would have shown up is on the build sheet. Of course, the easy way to tell is the location of the fender emblems, as discussed in this thread.
Thanks for the reply. So basically without a build sheet there is no way to tell other then the location as discussed in this thread.
Was the stripe only on 1968 442's? And speaking of 1968 442's, what in the VIN told you the car was a real 442? I've read somewhere on earlier years it wasn't in the VIN. I know this is off topic.
Thanks for the reply. So basically without a build sheet there is no way to tell other then the location as discussed in this thread.
Yes
Was the stripe only on 1968 442's?
Yes
And speaking of 1968 442's, what in the VIN told you the car was a real 442? I've read somewhere on earlier years it wasn't in the VIN. I know this is off topic.
1968-1971 were the only years where the 442 carried a unique VIN.
Just got my Sept 2009 JWO yesterday and ironically in addition to the big photo spread from Seven Springs, the classified ads had two photos of 1968 442s one above the other. Naturally, both have W36 stripes.
Only one is correct. The juxtaposition of the two photos helps one to see the differences.
OK, I'm a newbie 'round here so I'll take it slow 'cause I know I got one and I'm not stating otherwise, but what's the difference between 'Fake' 'Cheat' and 'Clone' anyway.
Clone or Tribute car is one made up to look like the real deal. Fake cheat is when someone sells a clone or tribute car as the real deal when it isn't. In general terms, the more the car is worth the more money grubbers will try to make a fake out of it to make a buck.
This thread is mostly about 68's. Where people have place the W-36 fender stripe on incorrectly [well the 442 # are in the wrong spot anyway] So it's not so much about clone or tribute 442s as it is about incorrect placement of a popular option.
Hey guys, regarding the W36 strip measurements, I see people on here with conflicting numbers.
the Olds Build book (light brown page ) diagram shows the total stripe width at 7”. The inner stripe 4 1/2”, the outer stripes and spaces each 5/8” (.625).
BigBlockOlds posted those amazing and much appreciated white fenders with red stripes photos in this thread. I’ve been told by many that those are the goto reference. But in doing some math, his numbers don’t match the build book. His outer stripes measure 5/8 and the spaces 1/2. That comes out 1/4 short. I was using those photos to reference my badge punch holes. Now I’m afraid my badging will look off. Is the closest stud hole to the wheel well 1 5/8” on drivers side and 1 9/16” on the passenger? Please help, I’m at a critical point after doing extensive research to know if my measurements are right. Thanks —Billy
From an original fender if buld book doesn't do it for you.
Originally Posted by Billyaxe
Hey guys, regarding the W36 strip measurements, I see people on here with conflicting numbers.
the Olds Build book (light brown page ) diagram shows the total stripe width at 7”. The inner stripe 4 1/2”, the outer stripes and spaces each 5/8” (.625).
BigBlockOlds posted those amazing and much appreciated white fenders with red stripes photos in this thread. I’ve been told by many that those are the goto reference. But in doing some math, his numbers don’t match the build book. His outer stripes measure 5/8 and the spaces 1/2. That comes out 1/4 short. I was using those photos to reference my badge punch holes. Now I’m afraid my badging will look off. Is the closest stud hole to the wheel well 1 5/8” on drivers side and 1 9/16” on the passenger? Please help, I’m at a critical point after doing extensive research to know if my measurements are right. Thanks —Billy
These are the photos I am referring to. Do I believe the Olds build book that says the spaces between the stripes are 5/8 or these photos which the spaces are 1/2” ? Can the build book be wrong? Could the factory not have followed the specs? Could those photos not be of original stripes? I’d like to hear from one more person who knows they have original stripes.
Thanks —Billy
OK, I measured the stripes on my original paint 68. They are basically the same as the ones in the photos, not the Olds blueprint drawing. Ironically, my car is also white with red stripes. On mine, the inner stripe is 4 1/2" wide. The two outboard stripes are 5/8". The forward gap is 17/32". The rear gap is 1/2". Overall width of the stripe is 6 13/16" or so. These dimensions are not entirely consistent from top to bottom, by the way, so all-in-all, typical GM build quality from the 1960s.
The other thing I noticed is that the stripes on my car are not centered on the emblems - they are about 1/4" towards the front of the car. I don't know if this is intentional or not, but I suspect not. These are the passenger side.
Wow! Thanks for this info - so for the record those white gender with red stripes photos are correct because they’re fairly consistent with yours Joe. So we can’t trust the original build diagrams.
I have my original fenders and where ever the badge holes are, I am going to leave those as is, then center my repainted w36 stripe over that.
I think we can say for sure that the outer stripes are 5/8. The spaces seem to be closer to 1/2 than 5/8 in referencing your car and the previous photos. So I’m going to call it 1/2”.
Thanks for the help. —Billy
Unfortunately it appears that whoever made the paint template got it wrong, or at least did not match the engineering drawing. I wonder if the overall width was purposely changed, as it appears that the overall width of the emblems is less than 7". There might be an engineering change order and the print didn't get updated. The gaps are unquestionably narrower than the outboard stripes.
Thanks to Karl Sup over on FB, I'm reminded that Chris Witt also documented the stripes on his original paint 68. That's now three cars with the 1/2" gap instead of the specified 5/8". Note that the stripes on his car are better aligned with the emblems, however.
The assembly manual page also shows the top half of the stripe to be 11" long not 12" long like the painted red fender pictures.
I got my stripe kit from phoenix graphics, even though the space is 5/8" wide I like it.
September 7th, 2009 | 11:32 PM
