WearnWrals

Hi- slightly old thread but looking for thoughts. I have '69 Vista Cruiser, original AC car, but the compressor is missing and the AC has been open for many years (prior to me buying the car). I'm wondering if I should have Original Auto Air rebuild the stock parts and use a Pro6Ten compressor and run R12 (friend has a good supply) or just convert over to the Classic Auto Air or VA modern system? Sounds like the original system would be slightly colder, but how is the airflow? I will miss the stock AC control panel on the dash.

I'm tempted to get new hoses and see how charging with R12 goes, but I'm concerned the vacuum controls and blend doors will be a constant failure point/not operate as well as the modern electronic system.

Olds64

I moved your post to a new thread. Hopefully you get more views this way.

If you don't have the OE AC compressor you need to compare the price of a Vintage Air system vs. rebuilding your OE system. Once you know price then you can make the right decision.

joe_padavano

Personally I don't care for the complete aftermarket VA-style systems, since they don't allow the option for fresh air inlet or recirc the way the factory plumbing does. On my 67 Delta, I used a Sanden compressor mounting kit and CCOT conversion from Original Air with the OEM evaporator, condenser, and HVAC ducting. This allows the original control head to work as intended but takes advantage of the modern, smaller compressor. Your Pro6Ten option does the same thing.

bw1339

It is easy enough to overhaul the old systems. A6 compressors are still very common and cheap, and easy to reseal. I reseal my own and retrofit a lip seal (replacing the porcelain seal). It is very easy to test the POA valve using compressed air.

If you go on facebook marketplace, you will find R12 at very reasonable prices, but you already have that.

I would not even change the hoses, unless they are damaged. I would do the following:
- Reseal good used A6 compressor
- Replace all o-rings
- Flush system and add new oil
- Replace dryer
- Maybe replace expansion valve
- Test POA valve

All of these things are cheap/easy. If your car didn't have AC, one could make the argument for an aftermarket system. Yanking a mostly complete factory system... Not something I would do. I get great satisfaction from reviving an old A/C system.

70sgeek

I did the VA conversion on my '72 CS ragtop which had factory a/c - benefits for me were smaller footprint in terms of equipment install requirements + ease of operation.

VA eliminates dependency on vacuum and mechanical cables which are needed to operate the factory a/c and elimination of the factory under-hood evap core box completely opens up the right side of the motor for ease of top-side engine maintenance.

But for being a factory a/c equipped convertible, my car isn't otherwise a 1-of-anything else in terms of having been a limited run, so I have no regrets in deviating from the factory equipment.

Gary's 2 442-S

I can agree with you . I replaced my factory a/c in my 72 in 2021 and could not be more happier I did it. It by far keeps the car cooler than the old factory unit which I ended up selling to a guy I know who is a purist and thinks VA is taboo. I am going to be installing VA in my 68 442 convertible in the next week or two since I love how it cools in my 72. I am going to keep the factory unit so when I do sell the car which I plan on doing in about 3to5 yrs and the buyer can get the system which by the way is a running unit. I like the idea that my engine bay is no longer filled up with the factory a/c. Just my two pennies

Loaded68W34

I will simply add that I have a gen IV vintage air unit in my 72 vista cruiser. With the tail gate glass down, standing behind the car you can feel cold air blowing out the back in the summer.

WearnWrals

That's saying a lot. I was about concerned that the R12 system, being colder, would cool the large car better since there are only front ducts. But if the VA type system moves air better, that would make up for a few degrees difference. I assume Classic Auto Air is basically the same thing?

WearnWrals

See- that is a straightforward plan and I'm considering that, my concern is will I "resurrect" an A/C system that will be troublesome since I didn't rebuild the entire thing.

I'm still calling companies to price things out, but it's looking like complete overhaul is basically the same price as modernizing. More if any work is required to get the vacuum system functioning (still need to test it).

My tubes don't have obvious damage but a not super pliable. You'd try them without replacing them?

Also- why is the POA more likely to be working than the Expansion valve?

BlueCalais79

I went with the Original Air Stage I kit for my 1979 Cutlass Calais (Olds 260 motor), I'm 100% happy with it. Plus, with using the brackets the kit came with for the Sanden Compressor, I can actually see my fuel pump, so if that ever needs to be replaced I can have at it alot more easily.

liquify33

I see you’re In AZ, just a heads up to avoid the “adjustable” high temp expansion valve if your system uses one . I tried it in Houston and it failed within 30 minutes.

FWIW, I was in a similar situation with my car and slapped an Amazon A6 Sanden compressor in. AC is good now, Flushed the old system and charged up with 134a but it is designed for r12 as shipped. No changes to the car were required, under $500 all in.

Fun71

Just some questions showing my ignorance of the aftermarket systems.
Do they also control the heater?
Do they use the factory ducting for heater and defroster?

chip-powell

I don't think that the prices will even be close. Given, I converted my a/c over to 134 because of the trouble finding 12, but I converted for a total of about $400 in parts. If you're staying with R12 it should be even less because you wont have to get your POA valve redone. Replace your compressor, dryer and expansion valve (they're cheap). Check the POA and then run a smoke test on it to make sure there are no leaks. Unless you need to replace hoses, you should be able to do it all for around what I paid.

bw1339

To add to this - Any moderately mechanically inclined person can take apart an A6 and reseal it. It's just a few o-rings and a shaft seal. There are many videos on youtube on how to do it. No need to get a new one, unless the old one is really worn out. Lots of rebuildable cores out there.

Rebuilding the POA is typically not needed, although the pressure setting needs to be changed slightly if going with R134A. Also very easy to do.

tmaleck

I guess my decision was easier. The OE A/C system had been put in boxes in the trunk, condenser was bad and missing compressor. I was able to get an ala' carte kit put together and was all in for $1300. Given most of the save the OE system don't address vacuum actuators, hoses control head issues, rusty cables etc.it could cost a lot more than $400-$500 . My V.A. system was all new with electronic control and the proper parallel flow condenser. It's been installed and working since 2013-2014 and still works great.
Just to be clear for best results, a parallel flow condenser should be used with R134.

WearnWrals

I have to check again, but I recall a quote of about $1900 from Original Air to refurbish the ENTIRE system. Flush, clean, straighten fins, new or repacked dryer, fix evap or replace, rebuild POA and expansion, hoses, etc. That would be a complete overhaul.

WearnWrals

Does a parallel flow provide meaningful benefits for R12 as well?