69CutlassAlex

Hello all. I recently just re-installed my 455 in my cutlass. I am having trouble keeping it running. I turn it over and it fires and then dies. If it were to have the constant power of the starter it seems like it would run. I thought it was fuel related. unhooked the fuel pump to see if it was spitting fuel and it is working properly. Could this be an electrical problem? I bought a new ignition coil and it did not come with that small condenser that was on my old one. Maybe its that? The only other modification I did was a C heads and Roller Rockers. Also with the Starter solenoid. One of the posts isn't used correct? Any ideas?

RetroRanger

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-symptoms.html

Check this thread sounds similar

Allan R

That was for a car converted to HEI

oldcutlass

What ignition system are your running? Sounds like your missing 12 v at the coil with the key on.

69CutlassAlex

Ahh Thanks. Im running stock ignition and a stock distributor. Thanks

69CutlassAlex

Im running just a stock ignition and stock distributor. The car wants to run. Its fires up and then not even a second later it dies. So its not supporting itself.

brown7373

So you are running a stock points ditributor? Have you set the point dwell? Did you connect the black wire from the points to the NEGATIVE on the coil? Are all vacuum ports connected or plugged? What did you set the timing at?

Finn5033

I just went throught the same thing with my cutlass. I had 2 issues, one was correct power to the distributor, 2 was I had an open vacuum port that need to be plugged.

oldcutlass

Run a jumper wire from the battery positive to the coil+ and see if it will stay running. If it does then your missing your run circuit.

69CutlassAlex

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I will get back to you and tell you how it went!

m371961

The problem in the post refered to can occur in point sysytems or HEI. Try what oldscut says. Just don't run it long with this connected, shortens point life.
Both small posts on the starter solenoid are used. One activates the solonoid coil, voltage is applied with key turned to start. Off the top of my head I don't remember which is which. The other supplies 12 volts to the coil positive when the starter operates. When the key goes back to the run position, voltage at coil positive term is btw. 6 and 9 volts.
Hmmm. I thought more people knew how to hot-wire old cars. Guess thats just another lost art!!

69CutlassAlex

Well she lives. When installing the starter I had both the Purple and Yellow wires on the S post on the starter solenoid. The weird thing is, that's how it was when I pulled the engine. The last time I had then engine out was two years ago. It had been running that way for that last two years. Any ideas?

m371961

Don't know how it worked before. The coil voltage would go to ground through the solonoid coil when the key returned to run. I think.
Anyone?

oldcutlass

No, I would think if that was the case the starter would have kept cranking because of the 9.5v run feed from the coil.

m371961

Yea, I agree. So why does it run now?

69CutlassAlex

I don't like to ask questions. As long as its running properly haha

oldcutlass

I agree the car gods smiled on you, leave it be. Make sure your coil+ feed wire from the ignition still has the resistor wire on it. You should read somewhere around 9.5v with the car running. Good job!