droptopron

What don't they tell you on TV & the internet? 1970 442 very stock except for a Comp Cams 280H. Engine has been rebuilt. Still has stock intake & exhaust manifolds. Would it be OK to run on an adapter plate or would I need to (or be better off) change the intake? Looking for better drivability & easier starting, especially after it sits a while. Fuel economy isn't a major concern. What kind a battery draw is it when it's sitting & what happens to it is the battery gets drawn down while sitting? I also don't want to do anything that can't be switched back later. Currently have a stock QJet that needs to be gone through. Right now it has an HEI but I have a stock points type distributor to go in with a Crane XR-i conversion. Lastly, any chance a stock air cleaner will work with it for that super stealth look?
Any feedback would be much appreciated.
I know a true FI with runners is a superior set up but I don't want to get into all that.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...511k/overview/

Jetstarjim

I'm sure there are better performance experts than myself here, but you're not getting much response, so I'll take a stab at it.


First, that 280 cam is pretty big, for all things stock. If economics are a concern, I'd go with a square bore A/M intake with an electric choke Holley or Edelbrock. I have a big Edelbrock with a heat spacer on my JS1, and it can sit for a couple weeks and fire up with one press on the pedal, and a turn of the key. I suspect your Q-jet is leaking down. Add some headers with a crossover, and you should be in business.


If money is not such a concern, I've used the Holley FI, and it is a nice set-up. If you push the limits of the motor, you'll want some valve train upgrades. Better valve springs, rocker arms, and performance push rods. If it's an automatic, an upgrade on the torque converter is in order. That's in addition to the exhaust.


The thing I see a lot, is folks wanting that big cam sound, but don't do the required upgrades, and potentially make less power and worse drivability, than stock. Just keep in mind, for every action, there is a reaction.


As far as battery draw, it should stay charged for a considerable amount of time. There are strings on here about checking for such problems, and its pretty cut and dry, just takes some time.


Hope that helps some,
Jim

1970-W30

Punch in fuel injection on the search feature in the "general discussion" section.
you'll find quite a few threads on the FiTech system.

droptopron

Def some good info in here. Thanks. Economy isn't a concern. I don't get to use the car enough that it would matter.




https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...rks-great.html

Olds64

Ron, if you aren't concerned about fuel mileage I would just get the Q-jet rebuilt. That would improve your drivability.

I know folks want to keep their cars stock, or at least keep all of the stock parts when modifying their car. However, if you switch to EFI and keep your carburetor, mechanical fuel pump, etc. it's doubtful you would want to install them again before selling your car. The carburetor, fuel pump, etc. would end up in a box as spare parts for the future owner.

Lee_A

Pretend you have a fairly complex math formula in front of you, and you have several different helpers who are each telling you some value that you need to input into part of that formula. You are having to make this calculation over and over, rapidly, because the situation is constantly changing.


No imagine if one of those helpers is drunk, and keeps giving you bad information.


Also imagine that somebody else is yelling out random numbers as you are trying to listen to the helpers tell you their information.


One of THE most critical inputs that an EFI system needs to operate properly is the engine RPM. If the ECU thinks the RPM has just doubled, then it is going to tell the injectors to spray a LOT more gas, or a lot less if the ECU believes the RPM has just dropped.


Using an HEI or negative post of the coil is like having the drunk guy give you data. You'll have occasional misfires, voltage does odd things,... it is just a poor quality signal overall and can cause your EFI system to operate well below its potential. The tach output of an ignition box is a MUCH cleaner, consistent, and reliable rpm source. AT A MINIMUM, use an ignition box and have it provide the RPM signal to your EFI system. A crank trigger system is even more accurate, but probably more expense/trouble than you want to deal with. Some systems, like FAST, have special distributors that also serve as sort of a crank trigger.


I personally like the FAST EFI systems, and their Dual-Sync distributor. This distributor connects directly into the main wiring harness and provides a VERY accurate RPM signal.


As for the annoying person yelling out random numbers - that applies to how you make your power connections and route the wiring. Hooking the main + and - wires for the EFI directly to your battery will filter out a lot of the electrical "noise" going on with your engine. Keep all the EFI wires routed away from spark plug wires, as the plug wires can induce (inductance) false signals to nearby wires.

TripDeuces

If this is your only concern then why not just get the QJet rebuilt? It's quicker, cheaper and less problems.

droptopron

That post is a cold glass of water to the face. Thanks. Everything you said makes perfect sense. I'm not ready to get into all that at this time so I'll get the QJet redone. Thanks.

Lee_A

Glad all that typing was of use to you!


I've done a few systems now, and helped sort out some others. I also went to FAST's EFI school a few months ago. It was really cool when I turned the key for the first time, on the last system I installed, and it fired immediately and idled perfectly!


If you do the system properly, and it is a good system to begin with, then you'll probably be VERY happy with it for a long time.


FWIW, I'll be installing a FAST Sportsman 2.0 and Dual-Sync distributor on my Firebird pretty soon :-)