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Put about a 100 miles on it so far. Throttle response is greatly improved and so is the mileage. The only time I hear the high pressure pump is when the key is turned on for the first 3 seconds or so. Paying $795 for the throttle body assembly and $395 for the fuel pump "command center", and then getting a $75 rebate check last week, made this a great buy in my opinion.
[QUOTE=bw1339;951137]Does it control spark timing?
No, my unit, part #30003 does not control timing, but part #30001 (polished) or #30002 (satin) that costs $200 more, does control the spark timing.
The spark control units are 600hp rated while the one I bought is rated for 400 hp.
Looks great. Get back to us when you have some real world before & after MPG & driveability reports to share. I really think that for the money this is one of the best EFI systems on the market.
Put about a 100 miles on it so far. Throttle response is greatly improved and so is the mileage. The only time I hear the high pressure pump is when the key is turned on for the first 3 seconds or so. Paying $795 for the throttle body assembly and $395 for the fuel pump "command center", and then getting a $75 rebate check last week, made this a great buy in my opinion.
I was thinking about doing this. Is the pump inside or outside of the tank?
What is the hard part about installing this kit?
Is this an all day job when installing this kit?
[QUOTE=ELY442;951249]I was thinking about doing this. Is the pump inside or outside of the tank?
What is the hard part about installing this kit?
Is this an all day job when installing this kit?
Pump is outside of fuel tank, it's in a sump container (the one with the 2 gauges) and it's kept full of fuel by stock fuel pump.
It is an all day install job.
I was thinking about doing this. Is the pump inside or outside of the tank?
What is the hard part about installing this kit?
Is this an all day job when installing this kit?
Pump is outside of fuel tank, it's in a sump container (the one with the 2 gauges) and it's kept full of fuel by stock fuel pump.
It is an all day install job.
I have an Holley street electric fuel pump. Is that good enough?
I like your a/c, is that from Vintage Air?
This is on the 65 right? Did the FiTech unit bolt on in place of 4GC carb or are you running Q-Jet intake?
Yes it's on my 65, I'm using a Performer manifold, but I believe it would bolt right on the 4GC stock manifold also.
Ely, it requires a 60 psi pump, either in a fuel tank, or mounted outside on the frame rail or what I'm using, the $395 "Command Center" which has a high pressure pump set in a reservoir fed by the engine fuel pump. The 2 gauges on top of the unit measure stock fuel pump pressure and the high pressure pump pressure.
Also, if a person was so inclined, with a few tools, and with the stock carb and fuel line in the trunk, it's fairly easy to switch back to the carburetor set up if there was a FI failure out on the road away from home. I will probably do this when we go on our local Olds club 730 mile long Route 66 fun run every spring. I'm also anxious to see how the 5000ft elevation change on the Route 66 run will be handled by the new FI system.
And finally, yes the AC system is Vintage Air, I bought all the components separately since they don't make a kit for the 65. It is set up completely independent of the stock heater which I did not touch.
Update on the FiTech injection, A week or so ago, driving at night with the AC on, I noticed that the system voltage was lower then I thought it should be. Checking the alternator the next day, I realized it was only rated at 45 amps. Adding up the loads , 9 amps for the Halogen headlights not counting the high beams, 16 amps for the Vintage Air, 12-14 amps for the fuel injection and maybe 10 amps for the dash lights, tail lights, brake lights, radio etc. I was past the max output of the stock alternator. An easy fix, I went to a 61 amp unit from a 72 Olds 98 from the wrecking yard, $20 + $10 for new brushes and the problem was solved, but it was something I had overlooked, like all projects, one thing leads to another...
I'm liking the unit more and more to the point that I just ordered another FiTech unit for the fresh 425 I just finished for the 70 convert.. Since it needs a new fuel tank anyway, I'm going to use an in tank fuel pump set-up this one.
I'm also getting used to no more pumping the gas pedal after the car has sat awhile, This is the first old Olds I ever owned that I can start hot or cold without having to get in the car, just reach through the window turn the key on, wait a second or two and start it. No touching of the gas pedal needed!
Thanks for the info.
I've had a 600 hp version since April, and it's still sitting in the box. LOL
I bought it in a hurry since there was a $100 rebate that was gonna expire months before I would be ready to really install it.
I'm also going with an in-tank fuel pump, which was one of the hold ups on the installation delay.
The summer of 2016 is one I'd much rather forget, considering I ruptured the tendon in the bottom of my foot on Memorial weekend, that was a 2 month healing process.
Then add in the discovery in late July of 24 feet of rotted rim joist and wall sheeting on our house due to faulty/missing mortar and a very poor caulking job on the half brick wall....
That ate up a BIG portion of my car budget.
So, here it is, almost Oct, and getting to be time to put the car up for the season, and I still have the FiTech sitting in the box. But, I do have all of the parts I need for the install.
Just need time now.
Very cool. How is the fuel consumption compared to the carb?
If I can just quit putting my foot into it all the time, because it's so much fun now, I could tell you what the mileage improvement is. I've been told up to two miles per gallon more, but I suppose it all depends on how lean or rich the original carb was set up to run at before the FI is installed.
I am tagging in on this as I am considering switching to FI on my 67 and as we are doing the build on our 70 442 I am seriously thinking it would make things so much simpler. Please keep updating how it works?
Checking the alternator the next day, I realized it was only rated at 45 amps.
I just ordered the 400hp version and am very excited to be putting it on my (daughter's) 1972 Cutlass. I'll be using an Edelbrock Performer manifold.
I don't recall if there is an easy way to determine alternator amps (I have to assume 45)? I certainly would like to know if I need to upgrade. *** UPDATE *** - I'll likely upgrade to a 63 amp (easy to get at auto parts store for less than $100) or possibly 100 amp. I don't need silly gremlins. I'll be running an "in the tank" EFI compatible pump from Tanks Inc as well as their 20 gallon "anti-slosh" tank. According to their site, assuming 70 psi, I may be using up to 8.6 Amps with their GPA-2 pump... plus EFI unit, etc.
Last edited by GammaFlat; December 18th, 2016 at 10:02 PM.
I noticed that Tanks Inc with pump, and sending unit would run around $500.00 plus shipping. I'd like to have that unit because they are located within 40 miles of me.
However I was looking the Spectra for about $300 with straps from the rock, not counting any discount codes.
Was there a reason you went with the tank from Tanks?
Maybe I will call them to see if they can offer a discount, I'd much rather have the locally built tank, but I'm not sure I can justify the extra $.
Last edited by RetroResto; December 20th, 2016 at 09:44 PM.
Was there a certain reason you went with the tank from Tanks?
I'm not married to the notion of using Tanks Inc. For the Tanks Inc. tank, pump, gas cap, sender and straps it is $508 before shipping/tax. I'm all ears on another workable solution or if you can get a discount. I think we need 62 PSI or so for the FITech unit. I'll have to check out Rock Auto.
I think we need to keep in mind that anti-slosh baffles are kind of important wkshich I believe to be standard on tanks made for FI applications.. either that or the Holley fuel Hydramat. The FI unit and/or pump doesn't like air. The tank I chose accepts a drop in fuel pump and has baffles. I could keep my "OEM-ish" fuel tank but I think it's recommended to use a Hydramat with that style tank. In that case, I'd have an external pump which is probably around 100 bucks. The Hydramat price (200-ish) makes me want to just use an FI style tank and drop in fuel pump....
I'm about 4 hours from Monticello, IA (Tanks Inc.). I am not opposed to a road trip if it makes sense.
I have the FITech unit in my possession. It's getting wrapped and put under the tree for my daughter .. (This Cutlass is her car)
I feel silly having just bought an OEM-ish tank and sender. I need someone nearby (NW Indiana) that needs a new tank for a 70-72 Cutlass.
Please keep me current. Thanks! John
Last edited by GammaFlat; December 20th, 2016 at 10:30 PM.
I'm don't know where you got the $508 + shipping number, But Summit sells the Tank Inc. tank, fuel sender and pump assembly for $467.66 delivered. That's what I used on my 70 with the FiTech unit. The only reason I went the tank pump route is because the tank needed replacing, it had been J-B weld repaired and was slightly weeping. I cleaned up and re used my old tank straps. The pump assembly and the sending unit both needed tweeking/ slight modifications to get them to work in the shallow tank. Also the soft thick gaskets that come with it for both the sending unit and the pump unit just don't seal well and will leak fuel when the tank is completely filled. On the plus side the tank does have a deep built in sump to prevent fuel starvation.
All in all, the FiTech Fuel Command Center is much simpler to install. Like I mentioned earlier, had my tank not needed replacement, I would not have gone the pump in tank route.
I noticed that Tanks Inc with pump, and sending unit would run around $500.00 plus shipping. I'd like to have that unit because they are located within 40 miles of me.
However I was looking the Spectra for about $300 with straps from the rock, not counting any discount codes.
Was there a reason you went with the tank from Tanks?
Maybe I will call them to see if they can offer a discount, I'd much rather have the locally built tank, but I'm not sure I can justify the extra $.
I'm not sure about current versions, but there were many complaints regarding the Spectra tanks in the past. We put the Tanks inc in my friends 600+hp Chevelle and have had no problems I also have it in my 72 Cutlass with LS2
I'm don't know where you got the $508 + shipping number, But Summit sells the Tank Inc. tank, fuel sender and pump assembly for $467.66 delivered. That's what I used on my 70 with the FiTech unit.
I cleaned up and re used my old tank straps.
The pump assembly and the sending unit both needed tweeking/ slight modifications to get them to work in the shallow tank.
Also the soft thick gaskets that come with it for both the sending unit and the pump unit just don't seal well and will leak fuel when the tank is completely filled.
My pricing comes from the Tanks Inc. site... The part number for the tank is: TM34R-T. It seems that on Tank Inc. site it is 225.00. On Summit, it's 225.97. There is a bundle at Summit: TM34R-T-KIT which includes pump, sender, tank, straps for 510.97. Did I miss the sale? . I can get by with my old straps but that's only a 30 dollar savings.
I don't like hearing the "leaks when it's full" story. The mission statement for this vehicle is primarily reliability and drive-ability. My daughter will be driving it. Did you inquire to Tanks Inc. about the leaking issue?
When I started looking at the FITech system, I was convinced the FCC (Fuel Control Center) was the path. It seems like such an elegant solution. Unfortunately, I've read at least 2 threads (other forums) where folks have had reliability problems with the FCC. I guess I'm still on the bubble.
What's up with having to tweek the pump and sender? Aren't they made to work together or did Summit provide "non-Tanks Inc." parts in their kit?
My pricing comes from the Tanks Inc. site... The part number for the tank is: TM34R-T. It seems that on Tank Inc. site it is 225.00. On Summit, it's 225.97. There is a bundle at Summit: TM34R-T-KIT which includes pump, sender, tank, straps for 510.97. Did I miss the sale? . I can get by with my old straps but that's only a 30 dollar savings.
I don't like hearing the "leaks when it's full" story. The mission statement for this vehicle is primarily reliability and drive-ability. My daughter will be driving it. Did you inquire to Tanks Inc. about the leaking issue?
When I started looking at the FITech system, I was convinced the FCC (Fuel Control Center) was the path. It seems like such an elegant solution. Unfortunately, I've read at least 2 threads (other forums) where folks have had reliability problems with the FCC. I guess I'm still on the bubble.
What's up with having to tweek the pump and sender? Aren't they made to work together or did Summit provide "non-Tanks Inc." parts in their kit?
"Tanks" for the feedback. What a great community!
He's probably referring to the fact that there is "some assembly required" on both parts. You will have to fit, measure, cut both parts for successful install.
Last edited by csouth; April 28th, 2017 at 07:40 AM.
The "leaks when full" is weeping from the supplied spongy thick gaskets, easily cured by either eliminating them or replacing with a different style and using a good sealer. For me , it was no problem, but I realize we have many members here that can not or do not know how or want to improvise to get things to work properly.
By tweeking, I meant that the pump assembly and fuel sender unit is sort of universal and fits many different style tanks, some shallow like the A body style and some deep style tanks. Like csouth posted; there is "some assembly required" on both parts. You will have to fit, measure, cut both parts for successful install.
The Summit part numbers are TNK-TM34-2T for the tank, TNK-GPA-4 for the pump assembly and TNK-TAN-GML for the fuel sender.
I wouldn't be scare of those so called reliability problems with the Fuel Command Center, I know of three plus my own FCC units, they are troublefree.
I forgot to mention that both the primary and secondary throttle shafts have a built in return springs wrapped around them. The throttle action is pretty stiff with this factory return spring setup, so following a tip I saw on some other message board, I unhooked the primary return spring so it no longer functions. All it takes is a needle nose to pop spring off of its tab, no disassembly required and it's easily reversed if needed. Since both the primary and the secondaries open simultaneously, the secondary spring will easily work as the throttle return, no other spring is needed, though I did hook up a light return spring so I could adjust the pedal feel to my liking and as a safety feature.
Other then that, the Fi system is still working perfectly, almost a thousand miles on it so far with no problems.
The throttle action is pretty stiff with this factory return spring setup, so following a tip I saw on some other message board, I unhooked the primary return spring so it no longer functions. All it takes is a needle nose to pop spring off of its tab, no disassembly required and it's easily reversed if needed.
Other then that, the Fi system is still working perfectly, almost a thousand miles on it so far with no problems.
I have had the unit out of the box and I noticed that - holy cow is it stiff - much stiffer than any carb I've ever handled. I'll probably do exactly what you did. It's now back in the box because it is going under the Christmas tree. She kind of knows FI is the way we're going so it's more of a symbolic thing.
I love hearing that it is working well. Reliability and Drive-ability are the primary goals.
Merry Christmas!
Did you have any problems with installing the O2 sensor. They say to drill a hole in the manifold and I am not sure how it is attached. They do say you can weld it on. Is that necessary or suggested?
Do you know what the pros and cons are to getting the 40003 Fuel Command Center vs the 40005 Fuel Delivery Kit. The kit is cheaper, but maybe it is noisy?
The hole for the sensor goes in the exhaust pipe, not the exhaust manifold. On one of my installations I had a O2 bung welded on to the exhaust pipe, the other I used on of those "Christmas tree" drill bits and drilled a 5/8 or so sized hole in the ex pipe and used their supplied install kit, no welding needed. So far it has not leaked, but I do keep a close eye on it. Exhaust leaks before the O2 sensor are a definite no-no, it will mess up the sensor reading.
I did call Tanks today, they have a few scratch and dent units that will save you $25.00 if you care about that.
I was on the fence between the Spectra, Tanks Inc, & the fuel command center. I have decided to pay the extra and go with Tanks.
Does anyone know what distributor will work with the spark control feature? Looks like HEIs are not directly compatible. A "2 wire distributor" is needed....?
Give them a call at 951-340-2624 or Email them at info@FiTechEFI.com
From reading the instructions it seems a 2 wire dist is just a conventional distributor.
September 5th, 2016, 06:25 PM
.. (This Cutlass is her car)
. I can get by with my old straps but that's only a 30 dollar savings. 
She kind of knows FI is the way we're going so it's more of a symbolic thing. 
