Squeak, squeak, squeak...only when in reverse
#1
Squeak, squeak, squeak...only when in reverse
My 65 Cutlass has one annoying noise that I can't seem to pinpoint. I don't know if its a chassis, drive-train, or brake noise, so I am trying this General Discussion Forum. At any rate, when backing up, the car squeaks. When you apply the brakes and stop moving the noise of course stops too. When I drive away there is no noise what so ever. The noise seems to correspond to the rotation of something. Is there anything inside the stock drum brakes that could rub only in reverse? Can a "U" joint make a noise like that in the reverse direction only? I am trying to find this on my own by holding the door open and leaning out while backing up ( I'm sure the neighbors think I'm nuts!). I can't tell if its from the front or the back of the car, or even from right under where I sit...
#4
If they are only at the squeaking phase they may feel fine. So if it isn't easily spotted I suggest taking the drive shaft out to check it out.
Last edited by 66luvr; August 28th, 2013 at 05:26 AM.
#6
Check rear shoes. While rolling backwards and hearing the squeak, lightly ( do not stop the car) press the brake pedal and see if pushing the shoe closer to the drum makes it stop. I've had this same issue in the past and it was simply the shoe barely touching a slightly out of round drum- rolling in reverse ever so slightly changes the geometry of the brake hardware.
#7
Don't blame you for not wanting to take it to a garage.I always hate it when they charge me $39.95 to tell me there's nothing wrong with it.
railguy
#9
My gut tells me you should go for the U-joints first. They are finicky little things. My old Silverado did this same thing. It was a 5-speed, and would only squeak when there was tension on the driveshaft. Throw in the clutch and the annoying noises went away. After throwing some fresh u-joints at it, all was good. Plus it wasn't very expensive.
#11
#12
If they are factory joints, they will not have grease fittings. Take the driveshaft out and manually work the yoke and the rear cross around in a circle, both one way then the other. If there is any resistance at all, they are bad.
#13
The car is nearly 50 years old. If you go through the trouble of taking the driveshaft out, just put in new U-joints.
#14
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