I've somehow managed to have never swapped out points/condenser, reset dwell on my 70-442 before, (I have adjusted timing many times and do own a dwell meter). I searched youtube for a good video, but did not notice one that was straightforward. Any advice on how to accomplish this and get a good result. Thx in advance.

 

If you are installing new points and condenser you have two choices. You can either use the separate point set and condenser or you can use a uniset which has the points and condenser made in one unit and is easier to install. Usually the points will be set close enough out of the box that the car will start. Hook up your dwell meter, open the window on the distributor cap and take the appropriate size allen wrench and turn until you have 30° on the meter. Be sure and use good quality parts. I usually buy the old NOS Delco Remy stuff off ebay. Get the old stuff and not the current stuff that is made in Mexico.

 

1) Disconnect the wires to the points
2) Remove the points (two screws) and condenser (1 screw). I use a "grabber" style screwdriver to avoid dropping the screws into the distributor body or elsewhere. A magnet works also.
3) Transfer the clamp to the new condenser
4) Install the condenser. Note the locating pins that fit into the tab on the clamp
5) Install the points. Note the locating pins. Use a sparing amount of lube on the rubbing block.
6) Reattach the wires to the points.
7) Bump the engine over until the point rubbing block is on a high point on the distributor cam.
8) Set the point gap (0.016" typically). Be sure there is no oil on the feeler gauge, as that will contaminate the points.
9) Reinstall the rotor and cap.
10) Connect the dwell meter. Start the engine. Set the dwell with an allen wrench through the window if needed.
11) Check the timing and reset as needed.

 

Thanks for the feedback guys. Exactly how do I setup the dwell meter/attach what to where, etc (again, not sure how I can't recall ever doing this way back when)?

 

Depends on the meter. Most have two wires, but I have one with three. In all cases one wire goes to the negative terminal on the coil.

 

From the old school box of tips when we had more time:
If you just want to "get that feel" of exactly where 30° is...Once cam is on its crown and the points are fully open (that's the static gap setting ~.016-.018"). With a clean feeler gauge, set the tool in between the contact set... Now grab the rotor and twist back n forth to come up and over the cam crown in both directions... feel the feeler gauge. At the highest spot on the cam crown, the feeler gauge should have a slight tug feel. Adjust with Allen wrench to obtain that. Repeat until you do. Old man showed me this for all engines running points. Now Im old telling you.
Of course, the dwell meter will tell you exactly where it is with nun of the fuss, if it starts right up.

A remote start switch is very useful to bump over engine

Much easier (for me) to pull the distributor and inspect/service it on the bench.

One way to increase contact set wear is to keep the contacts clean and adjusted to include cleaning and relubricating the cam, at min annually or every ~1-3K. Clean contacts with a lint-free cloth and contact cleaner. Use distributor grease sparingly as Joe mentions. Shy away brake or carb cleaner and offshore parts.

Timing, Dwell and Air/Fuel settings should all be adjusted together. While you are in there, pay attention to centrifugal advance, vacuum leaks, or a loose carb.

 

This is what we did were the youngsters and didn't have measuring equipment. You can use it if you ever get in that situation.

1) Set the approximate gap on the high point of the cam.
2) Optional if you want to check the gap: When you bump the engine, the points should close approximately third of the way down from the high point of the cam.
3) Start the engine.
4) Insert the hex key in the point set and turn clockwise until the engine just starts to misfire.
5) Turn the hex key counter-clockwise exactly one-half turn.

This will get you amazingly close to 30° dwell.

 

The really old school tip for when you don't have a feeler gauge (like when I had to throw the old points back in the car on the side of the road when the new, 1978-vintage electronic ignition conversion crapped out) is to use a matchbook cover. Close enough to get me home.

 

Thats what i was thinking too Joe.

but whens the last time you saw a book of matches ?

 

Yeah, I had that same thought as I wrote that.

 

Can't ya just use a Bic lighter? You can also use the scratcher to polish the pits on the contact points, takes about an hour to do anything, but it will get you home. A flashlight is handy to have because this only happens at night it seems....Tedd

 

I heard the matchbook method years ago but like you guys mentioned, where the heck you gonna get a matchbook.

 

I have replaced thousands of sets of points in 57 thru 74 GM cars in my over 50 year career as an auto mechanic .
I never "gapped " a set of those points . With a feeler guage or a matchbook cover .

As Redoldsman stated , they will be set out of the box so that the car will start .
Gapping these points with that advance mechanism in the way , is like a monkey fornicating a football .
Get a dwell meter and save yourself a lot of aggrivation .

 

X 2 If the dwell stays the same, good to go. I never changed points unless the car started running slower or I had a high speed miss. Points are good to at least 6,500 RPM's. I probably changed points less often than people are replacing parts in HEI's.

 

I replaced the old distributor in my 54 that required setting the points with a feeler gauge with a 56 distributor which has external adjustment. Ease of maintenance and accuracy is the reason.
Another thing is timing. If the timing was set when the last set of points were replaced it really should not change. Of course checking it is still a good idea.
The Op asked for a simple guide to changing points. Now he has I believe every possible way to change points.

 

You guys are awesome. Thank you for the many tips and Merry Christmas!

 

Thank you Gentlemen for an informative and civil conversation. Merry Christmas !

 

On my distributor on a 70 442, when I set the points in I did have to use the screwdriver on the base plate to adjust, to get the points to gap at 18 on my feeler guage, the hex screw would not open them enough, maybe I messed them up when putting into the distributor plate,..just be sure the rubbing block is on the very highest point of the cam lobe.. Damn distributor is in the back there so my eyes aren’t as good as they once were even with bifocals lol. As said before once you get it started you can set dwell to 30, tiny bits at a time with your hex wrench