just wondering if anybody has any expeirance with this oil, was thinking about it when i change my oil in my 403 sbo. just seems a little expensive but its highly advertised on alot of the auto shows i watch. just curious if anyone has used it.

 

I am using it in my transmission. I wanted to use AMSOIL in it but all the dealers in the area didn't have any instock so I went with Royal purple ATF. It seems good to me, but it hasn't been in that long. But after having the trans rebuilt and putting a shiftkit in I wanted the best I could put in.

 

my transmission was rebuilt about 2,000 miles ago, a turbo 400, but i dont know what they put in it. it was done before i got the car. i got the receipt from the shop though, says it cost 750.00 on it for total rebuild.

 

just don't use racing oil in you driver. racing oil is not intended to be used long term (3000 miles or more). racing oil should be changed very regular. does royal purple have a street oil and racing oil?

 

i didnt know it was only racing oil, if so i will just keep using valvoline, because its my daily driver.

 

I wouldn't say that. I used AMSOIL 20W-50 racing oil in my S-10 which was my daily driver, AutoX, and road course vehicle. I changed the oil maybe once a year. Changed the filter maybe 3 times a year. I put over 15K a year on that truck. I never had a problem even in winter when I would just jump in it and go, no warm up. Again never had any kind of problem

 

Royal Purple is not just for racing. They have a blend for racing and a warranty approved blend. I use the regular stuff in 15w40...I just think its better for our older style engines...

 

I've been using the Mobil 1 in the Alero and Altima for a while. The Alero since 62,000 miles and her Altima since 6,000 miles and works very well.

The Alero had the valve cover replaced (stock VC replaced by a powdercoated one) at 96,000 miles and my mech couldn't believe the motor had that many miles, he exact quote was "It looked like it had about 35,000 on it)

You wanna be careful using syn oil in an old motor. Syn oil is thinner and finds leaks a lot easier than convential oil does. If your motor's rebuilt and the cam is all broken in, then go for it, if not, I'm reconsider

 

i was not sure if they had both or not. the reason i say i would not use racing oil on the street is because it has less detergent. when you have a race engine you will be changing the oil more often so it is not needed. but in a street engine it will cause a build up of deposits over a long period of time.

 

I run Brad Penn . I think either or is good. Both ar expensive but worth the cost. Lots of Zinc.

 

I run Rotella T 15W-30. I've heard it is a heavy detergent oil that will prevent nasty deposits and such in the engine.

When I have my transmission rebuilt I am going to put Type F in it. I don't think I would bother spending the extra money to put Slickshift or Royal Purple in my transmission. The Type F is friction modified and will provide more positive shifts that you get using the expensive stuff.

 

I was just reading an article about this in Car Craft. The author mentioned that higher zinc levels are good for engines with tappet style cams...so I would assume that the extra zinc isn't necessary for roller cams, like in my 307's?

 

I don't put much faith in Car Craft or Hot Rod. However, even if a motor oil has more zinc I think the most important thing is to change it regularly. You can go wrong with that.

 

That's what I thought too. I put Mobil 1 in my Toro and just regular Chevron Supreme in my Custom Cruiser and honestly they both drive well so I think I'll just use the cheaper oil and save money. I might use 10W-40 this time instead of -30 just because it gets so hot here in Tucson in the summer.

 

I love Car Craft. It's the only magazine I have ever subscribed to.

 

Same with me actually. I get a couple other car magazines, but that's the only mod mag I get. They have some good how to articles.