General Discussion Discuss your Oldsmobile or other car-related topics.

rough idle and dark smoke.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old April 19th, 2020, 07:58 AM
  #1  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
ostie13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Asheville NC
Posts: 283
rough idle and dark smoke.

I have a problem that I am hoping I can get some advice on. I have a 71 Olds Toronado that has a 455 with a Fast Fuel injection system. The car has been running at 100% for several years now. I took the car out this week and drove close to 100 miles one day and put it back in the garage, all was well. The next day I started it up, let it Idle for a few minutes and started off to work. I noticed when I slowed down that the motor started to idle rough at the stop signs but when I gave it gas it took off like usual and ran good. Every time I came to a stop It started with the rough idle. I put it in the garage for thet day. The next day when I started it it ran very rough and would not idle almost like it was running on 3 cylinders. Dark smoke would come out of the exhaust and the smell was very abnoxious gas smell. I put new relays in to see if that help. It did not. Next I changed out the fuel filter and fuel pump. That did not help. Now I do not know what else I can do. I have a new fuel regulator I was going to replace but I wanted to see if I could get any advice from someone who knows more than me . That will probably will include 95% of the people that read this. Thank you for any comments.
ostie13 is offline  
Old April 19th, 2020, 09:35 AM
  #2  
Registered User
 
Fun71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 13,797
Leaky injector perhaps?
Fun71 is offline  
Old April 19th, 2020, 10:49 AM
  #3  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
ostie13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Asheville NC
Posts: 283
Originally Posted by Fun71
Leaky injector perhaps?
The Fast Fuel injection is based on a 4150 style carb. I doesn't have fuel rails or multiple injectors. I wonder if the O2 sensor could be the problem.?
ostie13 is offline  
Old April 19th, 2020, 11:50 AM
  #4  
Registered User
 
Fun71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 13,797
Well it is a fuel injection system, so it must have at least one fuel injector, right?
And yes, the O2 sensor could very well be the problem.
Something else to consider: back in the early 90s I had a similar issue with a TBI vehicle that ended up being the throttle position sensor. Resistance measurements while moving the TPS through its range showed a couple of bad spots with high resistance, one being at the idle position. When the throttle was at those spots, the high resistance caused an incorrect injector signal.
Fun71 is offline  
Old April 19th, 2020, 12:03 PM
  #5  
Registered User
 
70W-32's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: St. Clair, MI
Posts: 1,648
This could be any one of multiple trouble spots, do you have the instructions for the FAST unit. If not, go online to see if they have trouble shooting guide. Quit replacing parts until you have done more diagnosing. If idle clears up after warm up, could be temp sensor, or as mentioned, throttle position sensor, or computoer, or broken wire, or O2 sensor. See how this could get expensive if you just change out parts?
70W-32 is offline  
Old April 19th, 2020, 01:53 PM
  #6  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
ostie13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Asheville NC
Posts: 283
Originally Posted by 70W-32
This could be any one of multiple trouble spots, do you have the instructions for the FAST unit. If not, go online to see if they have trouble shooting guide. Quit replacing parts until you have done more diagnosing. If idle clears up after warm up, could be temp sensor, or as mentioned, throttle position sensor, or computoer, or broken wire, or O2 sensor. See how this could get expensive if you just change out parts?
Yes you are absolutely correct. It can get very expensive changing out parts.. I think I will pack up the FAST Fuel throttle body and the computer module and send it back to FAST FUEL and have them test it. If anything is wrong with it they can fix it. If it comes back and they don't find anything wrong I can start looking elsewhere. I did order a O2 sensor. Thought I would try replacing that before I disassemble everything. Thanks for your comment.
ostie13 is offline  
Old April 19th, 2020, 04:45 PM
  #7  
Running On Empty
 
Vintage Chief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Earth
Posts: 18,131
Pull the distributor cap and see if there is any arcing on the rotor button.
Vintage Chief is offline  
Old April 19th, 2020, 05:22 PM
  #8  
Registered User
 
70W-32's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: St. Clair, MI
Posts: 1,648
Is the unit under warrenty? Have you talked with FAST about returning it? Did you install the injection? Does it interface with your distributor? Dont do anything until you diagnois? You could pack it all up, and find out you have bad plugs or wires on the distributor.
70W-32 is offline  
Old April 19th, 2020, 07:20 PM
  #9  
Running On Empty
 
Vintage Chief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Earth
Posts: 18,131
It has been my experience one of the first signs of a faulty rotor (in particular the rotor button) is a modest misfire and (in particular) a rough idle. Early in the degradation of a faulty rotor (the rotor itself or possibly the distributor cap) is the inability of the rotor button to make solid contact w/ the distributor coil wire contact located w/in the distributor cap - which can often be visualized by a slight arcing condition between the two contact points. At slow RPM these points of contact (or more appropriately the lack of contact between these two points) produce a worsening idle as it becomes difficult to overcome the insulation of air (between the contact points). As the RPM increases, the voltage increases & the gap (or possibly the corrosion) between these contacts becomes less severe as the higher voltage is able to 'arc' (bridge) to complete the gap. How long does it take to remove a distributor cap & evaluate its integrity?
Vintage Chief is offline  
Old April 19th, 2020, 07:38 PM
  #10  
Registered User
 
70W-32's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: St. Clair, MI
Posts: 1,648
Originally Posted by Vintage Chief
It has been my experience one of the first signs of a faulty rotor (in particular the rotor button) is a modest misfire and (in particular) a rough idle. Early in the degradation of a faulty rotor (the rotor itself or possibly the distributor cap) is the inability of the rotor button to make solid contact w/ the distributor coil wire contact located w/in the distributor cap - which can often be visualized by a slight arcing condition between the two contact points. At slow RPM these points of contact (or more appropriately the lack of contact between these two points) produce a worsening idle as it becomes difficult to overcome the insulation of air (between the contact points). As the RPM increases, the voltage increases & the gap (or possibly the corrosion) between these contacts becomes less severe as the higher voltage is able to 'arc' (bridge) to complete the gap. How long does it take to remove a distributor cap & evaluate its integrity?
Exactly
And removing sparkplugs can reveal a few bad plugs, or maybe all 8 are fouled.
70W-32 is offline  
Old April 20th, 2020, 04:39 AM
  #11  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
ostie13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Asheville NC
Posts: 283
Originally Posted by Vintage Chief
Pull the distributor cap and see if there is any arcing on the rotor button.
Yes my friend that has helped me along the way also said for me to pull the distributor cap and check it before I do anything. . I will and let you know what I find.
ostie13 is offline  
Old November 20th, 2021, 07:40 PM
  #12  
Running On Empty
 
Vintage Chief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Earth
Posts: 18,131
Curious if the issue was resolved?
Vintage Chief is offline  
Old November 21st, 2021, 05:58 AM
  #13  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
ostie13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Asheville NC
Posts: 283
[QUOTE=Vintage Chief;1385106]Curious if the issue was resolved?[/QUO
Yes! I should have finished the post. It was an O2 sensor that hooks into the FAST fuel injection. Run like new again, Glad it was that simple. Thanks for your help.
ostie13 is offline  
Old November 21st, 2021, 06:01 AM
  #14  
Running On Empty
 
Vintage Chief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Earth
Posts: 18,131
[QUOTE=ostie13;1385181]
Originally Posted by Vintage Chief
Curious if the issue was resolved?[/QUO
Yes! I should have finished the post. It was an O2 sensor that hooks into the FAST fuel injection. Run like new again, Glad it was that simple. Thanks for your help.
Very good. Glad you figured it out & it was a simple fix.
Vintage Chief is offline  
Old November 21st, 2021, 06:40 AM
  #15  
Old(s) Fart
 
joe_padavano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,363
Originally Posted by ostie13
The Fast Fuel injection is based on a 4150 style carb. I doesn't have fuel rails or multiple injectors. I wonder if the O2 sensor could be the problem.?
I realize this particular post is old, but since the thread has come back to the top (and thanks for the update), I need to point out that the FAST system has EIGHT fuel injectors, which certainly qualifies as "multiple injectors". There are fuel rails built into the covers that are supposed to look like Holley fuel bowls. They still use the same o-rings as any other EFI injector, so they can have the same leakage issues.



joe_padavano is online now  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
cmpcpro
Vintage Oldsmobiles
29
December 29th, 2016 08:06 PM
CyberCholo
Small Blocks
20
November 6th, 2016 11:01 AM
Keegan
Small Blocks
6
October 25th, 2016 11:28 AM
Tedd Thompson
General Discussion
10
May 10th, 2014 12:01 PM
silverriff
Big Blocks
6
March 21st, 2010 10:12 AM



Quick Reply: rough idle and dark smoke.



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 03:32 AM.