Replacing valve cover 67 supreme questions
April 7th, 2012, 06:40 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Chattanooga Tn.
Posts: 313
Replacing valve cover 67 supreme questions
Hey Man
Was about to change valve cover gaskets 67 supreme.
There are a few threads,but I had a couple questions.
The argument: cork vs rubber.Cork needs adhesive rubber no(maybe some vaseline to help stick) Any proof or opinion that one is better?
Also I read a thread here that said to clean the valve train gunk out while the covers are off.Besides cleaning the gunk out,would something like "seafoam"
help get the rest out? I don't know,just asking for wisdom here.
Also,I heard an "Old Wive's tale" that you should "never" clean the gunk out of your old engine, because that's what holds it together! And once you clean out the junk then it will fall apart,leak,and go to pot.
Is there even an ounce of truth to this theory? or maybe it's fact! HeHe!
In all seriousness, what is your experience.I just need the proper guidance.
Thanks..............Mudeye
Was about to change valve cover gaskets 67 supreme.
There are a few threads,but I had a couple questions.
The argument: cork vs rubber.Cork needs adhesive rubber no(maybe some vaseline to help stick) Any proof or opinion that one is better?
Also I read a thread here that said to clean the valve train gunk out while the covers are off.Besides cleaning the gunk out,would something like "seafoam"
help get the rest out? I don't know,just asking for wisdom here.
Also,I heard an "Old Wive's tale" that you should "never" clean the gunk out of your old engine, because that's what holds it together! And once you clean out the junk then it will fall apart,leak,and go to pot.
Is there even an ounce of truth to this theory? or maybe it's fact! HeHe!
In all seriousness, what is your experience.I just need the proper guidance.
Thanks..............Mudeye
April 7th, 2012, 07:18 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 978
valve cover gaskets
I like these-
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-VS50156T/
They are a little pricey, but they seal up well. No adhesive, and they're reusable. As far as the old wives tail: The gunk inside your engine does absolutely nothing for the structural integrity of your engine. However the problem occurs when you disturb the oil/ carbon build up and dislodge it. No doubt some will head toward the oil pan and your pick up tube. Some may even get past your oil filter and end up trashing your bearings. My best advise to you is to block the oil drain back holes while your cleaning. I use a shop vac and a screw driver at the same time to attack the big stuff. You can use brake clean and parts wash but try not to let to much go down to the pan. I also use a stiff bristle wire brush then compressed air to blow it all dry. Make sure the oil drain back holes are totaly clear before you bolt the cover back on. I like to use sea foam in the crankcase to help free up sticky lifters. I always put it in and run the engine at 2000 RPM for a couple minutes, then do a full oil change.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-VS50156T/
They are a little pricey, but they seal up well. No adhesive, and they're reusable. As far as the old wives tail: The gunk inside your engine does absolutely nothing for the structural integrity of your engine. However the problem occurs when you disturb the oil/ carbon build up and dislodge it. No doubt some will head toward the oil pan and your pick up tube. Some may even get past your oil filter and end up trashing your bearings. My best advise to you is to block the oil drain back holes while your cleaning. I use a shop vac and a screw driver at the same time to attack the big stuff. You can use brake clean and parts wash but try not to let to much go down to the pan. I also use a stiff bristle wire brush then compressed air to blow it all dry. Make sure the oil drain back holes are totaly clear before you bolt the cover back on. I like to use sea foam in the crankcase to help free up sticky lifters. I always put it in and run the engine at 2000 RPM for a couple minutes, then do a full oil change.
Last edited by 67 Cutlass Freak; April 7th, 2012 at 07:33 PM. Reason: addition
April 7th, 2012, 07:21 PM
#3
I do not use sealer on any type of valve cover gasket. Some of the bolt holes are usually a bit smaller and the bolts can be placed thru and it will hold the cover enough so the other bolts can be inserted without loosing the gasket when positioning. No problem cleaning the covers just dont leave any cleaner or abrasives in there that may end up in the engine. It is an engne type flush that is a no no cause you will stirr up all the crap that has found a harmless resting place and circulate it thru the engine....not good.
April 8th, 2012, 04:31 PM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Boise ID
Posts: 1,275
I have always (30 years) siliconed the gasket (cork) to the cover 1/2 hour before install, it works perfect every time and the cover can be removed and reinstalled several times before the gasket is shot. As far as cleaning the inside of the head I always remove everything I can with a rag and engine or carb cleaner and vacuum out all the debris, there is a quit often chunks of carbon or valve seal plastic it the bottom of the head, just be careful not to loose to much down the oil return holes at the ends of the head.
April 10th, 2012, 05:34 PM
#5
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Chattanooga Tn.
Posts: 313
Filter
I have always (30 years) siliconed the gasket (cork) to the cover 1/2 hour before install, it works perfect every time and the cover can be removed and reinstalled several times before the gasket is shot. As far as cleaning the inside of the head I always remove everything I can with a rag and engine or carb cleaner and vacuum out all the debris, there is a quit often chunks of carbon or valve seal plastic it the bottom of the head, just be careful not to loose to much down the oil return holes at the ends of the head.
I put the vehicle up on jack stands.To make it easier.Thanks
April 10th, 2012, 05:54 PM
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Chattanooga Tn.
Posts: 313
mistake
I bought the gasket\filter kit. Is the filter relatively easy to change? Never even changed a gasket before(oil change a couple hundred times) So this tranny filter looks extremely unique.About an inch round pipe and maybe 4 " tall on a rather flat plate almost resembling a triangle with a open hole on top.
I put the vehicle up on jack stands.To make it easier.Thanks
I put the vehicle up on jack stands.To make it easier.Thanks
April 10th, 2012, 06:33 PM
#7
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
If everything is working well, my personal recommendation would be to NOT clean anything other than the sealing surfaces themselves.
All of that gunk in there isn't hurting anything, and there is no reason to mess with it.
It's one thing to clean everything if you are disassembling and rebuilding the engine, where you will be able to clean out every little nook and cranny, it's a different thing to clean one part and risk mobilizing crud that's in a safe place right now.
Cleaning it may make you feel good, but it may also make the engine feel bad.
Resist the urge to make something nobody ever sees "pretty" for no reason other than your own sense of order.
- Eric
All of that gunk in there isn't hurting anything, and there is no reason to mess with it.
It's one thing to clean everything if you are disassembling and rebuilding the engine, where you will be able to clean out every little nook and cranny, it's a different thing to clean one part and risk mobilizing crud that's in a safe place right now.
Cleaning it may make you feel good, but it may also make the engine feel bad.
Resist the urge to make something nobody ever sees "pretty" for no reason other than your own sense of order.
- Eric
April 10th, 2012, 07:15 PM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: brookfield, ill
Posts: 450
I like these-
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-VS50156T/
They are a little pricey, but they seal up well. No adhesive, and they're reusable. As far as the old wives tail: The gunk inside your engine does absolutely nothing for the structural integrity of your engine. However the problem occurs when you disturb the oil/ carbon build up and dislodge it. No doubt some will head toward the oil pan and your pick up tube. Some may even get past your oil filter and end up trashing your bearings. My best advise to you is to block the oil drain back holes while your cleaning. I use a shop vac and a screw driver at the same time to attack the big stuff. You can use brake clean and parts wash but try not to let to much go down to the pan. I also use a stiff bristle wire brush then compressed air to blow it all dry. Make sure the oil drain back holes are totaly clear before you bolt the cover back on. I like to use sea foam in the crankcase to help free up sticky lifters. I always put it in and run the engine at 2000 RPM for a couple minutes, then do a full oil change.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-VS50156T/
They are a little pricey, but they seal up well. No adhesive, and they're reusable. As far as the old wives tail: The gunk inside your engine does absolutely nothing for the structural integrity of your engine. However the problem occurs when you disturb the oil/ carbon build up and dislodge it. No doubt some will head toward the oil pan and your pick up tube. Some may even get past your oil filter and end up trashing your bearings. My best advise to you is to block the oil drain back holes while your cleaning. I use a shop vac and a screw driver at the same time to attack the big stuff. You can use brake clean and parts wash but try not to let to much go down to the pan. I also use a stiff bristle wire brush then compressed air to blow it all dry. Make sure the oil drain back holes are totaly clear before you bolt the cover back on. I like to use sea foam in the crankcase to help free up sticky lifters. I always put it in and run the engine at 2000 RPM for a couple minutes, then do a full oil change.
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