Re-stamped w parts
#83
So, for distributors watch for
-machined surface on pre-mid-69 dates which should be as-cast
-incorrect date for the number [requires lots of good info]
-Machined surfaces significantly smaller OD than above noted OEM figures.
-Incorrect font, placement of numbers
For carbs:
-Incorrect build date [again, info that is hard to find known correct]
-obvious alteration of the surface- step where cutting tool stopped, too sharp corner where the round part of the casting blends in, etc.
-incorrect teeeensy PN in the circle. That should be a dead giveaway, and these PN's are listed in the readily available big fat paper book.
-incorrect font, too-perfect alignment. It appears to me that the factory often stamped "7040" or whatnot on many, many bodies, then stamped the last three right when they made it into that exact carb. Sometimes one more digit- "70402" initially for example, then adding "56" or similar to suit.
THANKS guys for adding wording to the pix. Remember these will last a long time on the interwebs, and will get copied and shared a lot, so known clues are a good idea. I like how some of you guys put the clue right across the part's ID.
-machined surface on pre-mid-69 dates which should be as-cast
-incorrect date for the number [requires lots of good info]
-Machined surfaces significantly smaller OD than above noted OEM figures.
-Incorrect font, placement of numbers
For carbs:
-Incorrect build date [again, info that is hard to find known correct]
-obvious alteration of the surface- step where cutting tool stopped, too sharp corner where the round part of the casting blends in, etc.
-incorrect teeeensy PN in the circle. That should be a dead giveaway, and these PN's are listed in the readily available big fat paper book.
-incorrect font, too-perfect alignment. It appears to me that the factory often stamped "7040" or whatnot on many, many bodies, then stamped the last three right when they made it into that exact carb. Sometimes one more digit- "70402" initially for example, then adding "56" or similar to suit.
THANKS guys for adding wording to the pix. Remember these will last a long time on the interwebs, and will get copied and shared a lot, so known clues are a good idea. I like how some of you guys put the clue right across the part's ID.
#84
I know Steve and I know he knows his stuff. What's interesting is the 1st 2 pics of the carb date codes the 9 looks different. Same shape, but one looks deeper or at an angle, just different. I'm sure there are more sophisticated ways to tell for sure, like Sam said. I'm also surprised nobody has mentioned the open faced alts and stamping. Naturally, some can be ID'd from the rear, and all open face are rare. But I think they have been making open face fronts in China for a while.
#85
I think Sam should be mentioned as well far as authenticating .
He pointed out everything thus far and has revealed specifically what to look for.
In addition based on conversations with him I have found him the most knowledgeable with w cars 68-72. His knowledge on paperwork is second to none.
He pointed out everything thus far and has revealed specifically what to look for.
In addition based on conversations with him I have found him the most knowledgeable with w cars 68-72. His knowledge on paperwork is second to none.
1000X
Could not agree more, an absolute second to none source for the real deal parts to compare to. He has showed me so much more in a short period of time. Thanks Sam.
#86
I know Steve and I know he knows his stuff. What's interesting is the 1st 2 pics of the carb date codes the 9 looks different. Same shape, but one looks deeper or at an angle, just different. I'm sure there are more sophisticated ways to tell for sure, like Sam said. I'm also surprised nobody has mentioned the open faced alts and stamping. Naturally, some can be ID'd from the rear, and all open face are rare. But I think they have been making open face fronts in China for a while.
#87
I think all the info,pictures what to look for what not to look for etc is great but the people that have sold these parts NEED TO BE CALLED OUT and identified I also think that administration should get involved if a pattern of deceit is obvious
#88
Morgan right on, good for you so true once identified boot them !!!!
#89
Don W
#90
Wow...more and more "restamped" parts coming to light!
Don't be shy and please keep the pictures coming.
You can send me a PM if you are concerned about a part that you purchased for your car (especially W30 parts) on CO or ROP.
All information will remain confidential. This can ONLY help you!
Cheers,
Sam
Don't be shy and please keep the pictures coming.
You can send me a PM if you are concerned about a part that you purchased for your car (especially W30 parts) on CO or ROP.
All information will remain confidential. This can ONLY help you!
Cheers,
Sam
#91
Wow...more and more "restamped" parts coming to light!
Don't be shy and please keep the pictures coming.
You can send me a PM if you are concerned about a part that you purchased for your car (especially W30 parts) on CO or ROP.
All information will remain confidential. This can ONLY help you!
Cheers,
Sam
Don't be shy and please keep the pictures coming.
You can send me a PM if you are concerned about a part that you purchased for your car (especially W30 parts) on CO or ROP.
All information will remain confidential. This can ONLY help you!
Cheers,
Sam
#92
Dean sorry you got ripped off these bottom feeding vermin need to get the boot!!! When I go on line I started wondering how so much W-30 parts were out there and now we know, seen some carbs on line that are restamped. With the money they are asking they are starting to go to great lengths to make them look right.
#93
#94
Dean sorry you got ripped off these bottom feeding vermin need to get the boot!!! When I go on line I started wondering how so much W-30 parts were out there and now we know, seen some carbs on line that are restamped. With the money they are asking they are starting to go to great lengths to make them look right.
Hi Dave ty will get em
How are you doing and how is car coming ?
Dean
#95
Funny story back in 2011 on 442.com I believe, I asked a question and Joe P. called me a rookie lol, I thought it was hilarious . Then I realized based on his knowledge, I am a rookie
#97
Original 1970 W-31 255 carb. From a 4 speed car that was totaled in 1974. Was blessed in person by StickW31 last summer.
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Terry
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Terry
#101
dist
your right Joe, i always thought the absence of machine marks was a sure way to spot a fake. But, this original is unfinished as you describe. The second picture is distorted through a magnifier.
Last edited by Vader; May 16th, 2014 at 02:14 AM. Reason: .
#102
Oh good so you do know what a real one looks like and where you been?
Last edited by dnmfranco; May 13th, 2014 at 07:10 AM.
#103
I need to reread this whole thread again. Trying to absorb it all at once is a bit confusing. I have one bad carb and possibly a bad distributor. My bad carb came from a retailer that we all know quite well as terrible to deal with. I sent my carb and distributor to the Carb Shop in CA over 15 years ago to get rebuilt. Unknown to me a new owner took over and the IRS closed them down with my parts in the building. I tracked down the employees and they said they showed up one day and the inventory was missing and the doors padlocked by the IRS. UGH. So I bought what I was told was a rebuilt W30 carb and distributor. In the old days it was easy to spot fake carbs as this one had the stamping area ground down and the date was wrong for a 70 as well as the assembly plant code. Fortunately I found an original carb the next month and a member of a site was kind enough to sell it to me at a fair price. So those honest kind people do exist. Now I'm wondering about the distributor as it looked real. Need to compare it to my other distributors. UGH
Fake carbs are getting better but usually you can still tell that area was ground down where the stamp goes.
As far as OW trans goes I am familiar with their numbering system so sometimes it is easy to tell just because of how far off the trans sequence number is off from the originals.
I know when I rebuilt my carb I had the horn plate (or was it the bottom plate) from one carb changed because it was cracked. Oh well.
Here's the good part. I have no plans of selling my convertible as I have owned it so long its part of the family - so I'm ok if the carb isn't perfect. My children will most likely have to deal with that - just hope they don't get taken advantage of if they do sell it.
Fake carbs are getting better but usually you can still tell that area was ground down where the stamp goes.
As far as OW trans goes I am familiar with their numbering system so sometimes it is easy to tell just because of how far off the trans sequence number is off from the originals.
I know when I rebuilt my carb I had the horn plate (or was it the bottom plate) from one carb changed because it was cracked. Oh well.
Here's the good part. I have no plans of selling my convertible as I have owned it so long its part of the family - so I'm ok if the carb isn't perfect. My children will most likely have to deal with that - just hope they don't get taken advantage of if they do sell it.
#105
Because I see machine marks all across both the cap seat smaller diameter part and the slightly larger housing OD below that, where the # is.
Obvious lathe tool marks.
The unmachined units are a pebbly sandy cast texture, much like an intake. Not a smooth forced die process like the AL thermostat housing. Looking over my data, the dividing line seems to run about mid 1969, though there is overlap, and some fully machined housings are dated before some machined only on the cap seat. I have about 40 presumed factory dist's I can photo for posterity if I could get some help. I am overwhelmed by stuff to do all of a sudden, just to maintain regular life, so side projects are taking a back seat. It'd be a great array of NON-valuable therefore most unlikely faked stampings and dates. Now... did they use the EXACT SAME "7" on a '977 as on oh say [make up a #] '273 of the same year? Probably.... but maybe not. So, we still need good examples of known correct rare #'s. I did my part with known INCORRECT '1933 and the diameters which you can easily measure...
I notice on the '1977, there is a large fillet in the 9 and 7. The 1's are simple straight lines.
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Last edited by Octania; May 13th, 2014 at 10:02 AM.
#106
#107
Are we looking at the same picture? Top of post #86, presumably from an earlier post?
Because I see machine marks all across both the cap seat smaller diameter part and the slightly larger housing OD below that, where the # is.
Obvious lathe tool marks.
The unmachined units are a pebbly sandy cast texture, much like an intake. Not a smooth forced die process like the AL thermostat housing. Looking over my data, the dividing line seems to run about mid 1969, though there is overlap, and some fully machined housings are dated before some machined only on the cap seat. I have about 40 presumed factory dist's I can photo for posterity if I could get some help. I am overwhelmed by stuff to do all of a sudden, just to maintain regular life, so side projects are taking a back seat. It'd be a great array of NON-valuable therefore most unlikely faked stampings and dates. Now... did they use the EXACT SAME "7" on a '977 as on oh say [make up a #] '273 of the same year? Probably.... but maybe not. So, we still need good examples of known correct rare #'s. I did my part with known INCORRECT '1933 and the diameters which you can easily measure...
I notice on the '1977, there is a large fillet in the 9 and 7. The 1's are simple straight lines.
Because I see machine marks all across both the cap seat smaller diameter part and the slightly larger housing OD below that, where the # is.
Obvious lathe tool marks.
The unmachined units are a pebbly sandy cast texture, much like an intake. Not a smooth forced die process like the AL thermostat housing. Looking over my data, the dividing line seems to run about mid 1969, though there is overlap, and some fully machined housings are dated before some machined only on the cap seat. I have about 40 presumed factory dist's I can photo for posterity if I could get some help. I am overwhelmed by stuff to do all of a sudden, just to maintain regular life, so side projects are taking a back seat. It'd be a great array of NON-valuable therefore most unlikely faked stampings and dates. Now... did they use the EXACT SAME "7" on a '977 as on oh say [make up a #] '273 of the same year? Probably.... but maybe not. So, we still need good examples of known correct rare #'s. I did my part with known INCORRECT '1933 and the diameters which you can easily measure...
I notice on the '1977, there is a large fillet in the 9 and 7. The 1's are simple straight lines.
PM me, I am available to help if you like.
Sam
#108
REal deal Chris
#110
#111
I got this alternator from another member here for my W-30. It is a fake.
To that member... ALL our current deals are off and that includes the 71 W-30. I forgive you and will pray for you and this matter is closed with me. Feel free to call me if you want but this issue and all dealings are over and not for discussion. If you want to give me my $500 back I would be glad to take it but that is up to you.
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To that member... ALL our current deals are off and that includes the 71 W-30. I forgive you and will pray for you and this matter is closed with me. Feel free to call me if you want but this issue and all dealings are over and not for discussion. If you want to give me my $500 back I would be glad to take it but that is up to you.
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#112
I got this alternator from another member here for my W-30. It is a fake.
To that member... ALL our current deals are off and that includes the 71 W-30. I forgive you and will pray for you and this matter is closed with me. Feel free to call me if you want but this issue and all dealings are over and not for discussion. If you want to give me my $500 back I would be glad to take it but that is up to you.
To that member... ALL our current deals are off and that includes the 71 W-30. I forgive you and will pray for you and this matter is closed with me. Feel free to call me if you want but this issue and all dealings are over and not for discussion. If you want to give me my $500 back I would be glad to take it but that is up to you.
wow, sorry Eric but as you know you are not alone not that makes it any better
Can only imagine who
Dean
#113
You can see the slant of the numbers and that is a clue to me also the texture and been changed those little signs bring up a red flag and with the kind of money being paid out for these parts these guys are not just skanks but criminals! I was a police officer and depending on the amount it is considered felony fraud! There was an article in Car Craft years ago about a guy who sold a 383 cuda with a Hemi representing it as an original. The Judge ordered the man to repay the money and after had the police confiscate the car. He had jail time, fine and lost the car this is a great example of what should happen to these criminals!
#114
#116
#117
which is why I jumped on this band wagon they have to be stopped
and we need more people to come forward, SO ITS GREAT YOU DID IN PUBLIC FASHION
SEND PICS IF YOU FEEL YOUR PARTS ARE SUSPECT
#118
You can see the slant of the numbers and that is a clue to me also the texture and been changed those little signs bring up a red flag and with the kind of money being paid out for these parts these guys are not just skanks but criminals! I was a police officer and depending on the amount it is considered felony fraud! There was an article in Car Craft years ago about a guy who sold a 383 cuda with a Hemi representing it as an original. The Judge ordered the man to repay the money and after had the police confiscate the car. He had jail time, fine and lost the car this is a great example of what should happen to these criminals!
#119
I would agree with Steve that dist Chris asked about on Ebay looks good. Sometimes you have to go with your gut, like at a swap meet. That dist has a certain patina and amount of corrosion across the numbers that looks consistent. If you look back through that guys feedback, he's sold a couple other rare pieces, but they look "right". You saw the carbs Steve posted before, it's way better to look at a stained piece, it's less suspicious looking. Someone else mentioned here, many of the restamps the whole item looks like new. That's when you need to be really careful. If I buy a numbered part on ebay I like it to be real dirty! Yeah...alts...I knew they were out there. I learned a lot about this from the 'vette guys years ago. The better alt rebuilders (like Pirkle or Bruno) won't touch or sell a fake. All of this is partly due to the high prices the matching # W cars are bringing now. This is a side effect of that. I'm sorry many have been burned. I think it's happened to many, especially when you are new and anxious to get the right parts for your resto.
#120
I got this alternator from another member here for my W-30. It is a fake.
To that member... ALL our current deals are off and that includes the 71 W-30. I forgive you and will pray for you and this matter is closed with me. Feel free to call me if you want but this issue and all dealings are over and not for discussion. If you want to give me my $500 back I would be glad to take it but that is up to you.
To that member... ALL our current deals are off and that includes the 71 W-30. I forgive you and will pray for you and this matter is closed with me. Feel free to call me if you want but this issue and all dealings are over and not for discussion. If you want to give me my $500 back I would be glad to take it but that is up to you.
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CHECK YOUR OPEN FACE ALTERNATORS!!!
I feel for ya Eric, I was screwed too!
Keep your head up!
Sam
Last edited by 72xw30; May 13th, 2014 at 06:27 PM. Reason: More information.