Power Steering Pump Question
#1
Power Steering Pump Question
Car sat for 6 months. Started, started to move but could barely turn wheels. No squealing noise from pump, but a major bi*ch to turn. Checked fluid level and was empty, then saw where it leaked out.
Added fluid, restarted, then an awful noise similar to cats fighting even without turning the steering wheel....and adding fluid didn't make turning the wheel any easier. Do you need to turn the wheels back and forth for a while for newly added fluid to get into the lines ?
Or is something else most likely the problem ? (pump or belt)
Added fluid, restarted, then an awful noise similar to cats fighting even without turning the steering wheel....and adding fluid didn't make turning the wheel any easier. Do you need to turn the wheels back and forth for a while for newly added fluid to get into the lines ?
Or is something else most likely the problem ? (pump or belt)
#2
Car sat for 6 months. Started, started to move but could barely turn wheels. No squealing noise from pump, but a major bi*ch to turn. Checked fluid level and was empty, then saw where it leaked out.
Added fluid, restarted, then an awful noise similar to cats fighting even without turning the steering wheel....and adding fluid didn't make turning the wheel any easier. Do you need to turn the wheels back and forth for a while for newly added fluid to get into the lines ?
Or is something else most likely the problem ? (pump or belt)
Added fluid, restarted, then an awful noise similar to cats fighting even without turning the steering wheel....and adding fluid didn't make turning the wheel any easier. Do you need to turn the wheels back and forth for a while for newly added fluid to get into the lines ?
Or is something else most likely the problem ? (pump or belt)
#3
And, if what Joe mentions does not work... you might have a stuck flow control valve. Or... you might have a problem like mine, where I had a stuck valve, then bled the system by turning several times lock to lock, and STILL no power steering. Good luck! It's probably just air in the system like Joe said. I have read that you're supposed to do the lock to lock turns with the engine off, though.
#4
From my 1971 CSM:
(1) With wheels turned all the way to the left, add PS fluid to "Cold" mark on dipstick;
(2) Start engine, and running at fast idle, recheck fluid level. Add fluid if necessary to "Cold" mark on dipstick; (Remember, the wheels are still turned to the left)
(3) Bleed system by turning wheels from side to side WITHOUT hitting stops. Maintain fluid level just above internal pump casting. Fluid w/ air in it will have a light tan or red appearance. The air must be eliminated from fluid before normal steering action can be obtained;
(4) Return wheels to center position and continue to run engine for two or three minutes, then shut engine off:
(5) Road test to make sure free of noise;
(6) Recheck fluid level as in above steps making sure fluid is at "hot" mark on dipstick after the system has stabilized at its normal operating temperature.
(1) With wheels turned all the way to the left, add PS fluid to "Cold" mark on dipstick;
(2) Start engine, and running at fast idle, recheck fluid level. Add fluid if necessary to "Cold" mark on dipstick; (Remember, the wheels are still turned to the left)
(3) Bleed system by turning wheels from side to side WITHOUT hitting stops. Maintain fluid level just above internal pump casting. Fluid w/ air in it will have a light tan or red appearance. The air must be eliminated from fluid before normal steering action can be obtained;
(4) Return wheels to center position and continue to run engine for two or three minutes, then shut engine off:
(5) Road test to make sure free of noise;
(6) Recheck fluid level as in above steps making sure fluid is at "hot" mark on dipstick after the system has stabilized at its normal operating temperature.
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