OK Q-jet experts for the 330
#1
OK Q-jet experts for the 330
Now that I have about 500 miles on my car its time to go back and fine tune a few things. The biggest issue is the carb. When driving normal to light accelleration everything is fine but if I lay on it fast there is a good 1-2 seconds of bog before it want to go anywhere. The motor is bone stock other than dual exhaust. The carb is an original type Q-jet but it does have a remanufactured stamp on it so there is no telling what was charged.
So where do I start? Also what is the most timing anyone is using on a stock high compression 330 using 93 octane?
So where do I start? Also what is the most timing anyone is using on a stock high compression 330 using 93 octane?
#2
Now that I have about 500 miles on my car its time to go back and fine tune a few things. The biggest issue is the carb. When driving normal to light accelleration everything is fine but if I lay on it fast there is a good 1-2 seconds of bog before it want to go anywhere. The motor is bone stock other than dual exhaust. The carb is an original type Q-jet but it does have a remanufactured stamp on it so there is no telling what was charged.
So where do I start? Also what is the most timing anyone is using on a stock high compression 330 using 93 octane?
So where do I start? Also what is the most timing anyone is using on a stock high compression 330 using 93 octane?
#3
Thanks for your time .
#5
quadrabog
funny how cars have quirks.
The Toronado (Joe's) is the only one that starts and runs perfectly.
The 88 came with the wrong carb (it had been replaced but no history so after a rebuild and major quadrabog, I put an Edelbrock on it, we think maybe a fire, hood may have been replaced with a 98's, has a [factory drilled] hood ornament. Runs 1000% better, especially after the cat was stolen
but idles super high when cold (electric choke, just needs an adj, and no A/C high idle compensator)
(I feel the A/C compressor cycling in the gas pedal of the Toro and the wagon - VIR eliminated)
The wagon just had a carb rebuild and starts so lousy cold. I pump it 3 times, turn the key and it fires right up, but if I don't jiggle the gas pedal, it will stall. Then hard to start (flooded). I am soooo over the wagon stating issue but will not bother at this time to deal with it.
I am tired.
funny how cars have quirks.
The Toronado (Joe's) is the only one that starts and runs perfectly.
The 88 came with the wrong carb (it had been replaced but no history so after a rebuild and major quadrabog, I put an Edelbrock on it, we think maybe a fire, hood may have been replaced with a 98's, has a [factory drilled] hood ornament. Runs 1000% better, especially after the cat was stolen
![Smile](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
(I feel the A/C compressor cycling in the gas pedal of the Toro and the wagon - VIR eliminated)
The wagon just had a carb rebuild and starts so lousy cold. I pump it 3 times, turn the key and it fires right up, but if I don't jiggle the gas pedal, it will stall. Then hard to start (flooded). I am soooo over the wagon stating issue but will not bother at this time to deal with it.
I am tired.
Last edited by jeffreyalman; June 23rd, 2009 at 03:47 PM.
#6
Float level 3/4" float drop 1-7/8". Pump Rod 1-7/16"
Float level adjustment: With the air horn inverted and gasket in placve, measure distance from gasket to center of each floar next to sem. Adjust to specified dimension by bending float arms at junction point near needle and seat.
Rod pump adjustment: Install pump rod in hole specified for midel being serviced. Back out slow idle scerew unitl throttle valves are completely are completely closed. Place proper size guage on top of air horn next to pump plunger. With throttle valves closed and lower edge of quage resting on top of air horn, distance from top of air horn to bottom of pump plunger shaft should be as specified in the Rochester specifications chart. Bend pump rod do adjust.
This is in my Rochester carb book for the 1966 carb. I have pictures as well send me a pm with your e-mail and I can scan and send you the pictures if you need them
Float level adjustment: With the air horn inverted and gasket in placve, measure distance from gasket to center of each floar next to sem. Adjust to specified dimension by bending float arms at junction point near needle and seat.
Rod pump adjustment: Install pump rod in hole specified for midel being serviced. Back out slow idle scerew unitl throttle valves are completely are completely closed. Place proper size guage on top of air horn next to pump plunger. With throttle valves closed and lower edge of quage resting on top of air horn, distance from top of air horn to bottom of pump plunger shaft should be as specified in the Rochester specifications chart. Bend pump rod do adjust.
This is in my Rochester carb book for the 1966 carb. I have pictures as well send me a pm with your e-mail and I can scan and send you the pictures if you need them
#7
http://oldcarmanualproject.com/manua...sis/index.html
Chapter 6 has some carb adjustments and specs...
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