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I'm in the process of replacing a trim clip for the vinyl top trim at the bottom of the "C" pillar on my '72 Supreme. When I removed the trim piece, the rearward most clip looked like the one I have circled below.
I thought it was the wrong one because all the other ones along that same area looked like this.
So I ordered a set of these, and while doing some research is when i came across the first pic. So, why is the clip that's last in that line different from the others and do I need to replace it with the same style clip, or am I good with ones in the second pic? (Here is a better pic showing the two different styles of clips (photo courtesy of Midwest Muscle Car Specialties Inc,)
That metal clip in the upper shot looks like a generic replacement for the factory equipment using the spring pressure of the welded arm to hold the molding in place. If the car has been repainted, there’s a high likelihood that was put on the car during the job when the original clips got lost.
The clip/retention plug in the lower photo looks more GM to me, but its shape implies that it was put into the underside of the molding at specific point and then “hooked” onto the underlying studs welded into the body.
Two different clips, they are not interchangeable. The plastic clips slip onto studs welded to the car. These slip onto those studs first, then the trim merely snaps onto them (tapping the trim carefully to not dent it....first try by getting one edge under the one side of the clip, then by hand press the trim until the other side snaps on.....ask me how I know). The all-metal clip w/ the spring slips into the groove on the inside of the trim and then is inserted into a hole in the sheet metal and retained by a nut on the inside. Generally, the plastic clips / welded studs are used where limited access on the inside of the panel prevents attaching a nut.
Two different clips, they are not interchangeable. The plastic clips slip onto studs welded to the car. These slip onto those studs first, then the trim merely snaps onto them (tapping the trim carefully to not dent it....first try by getting one edge under the one side of the clip, then by hand press the trim until the other side snaps on.....ask me how I know). The all-metal clip w/ the spring slips into the groove on the inside of the trim and then is inserted into a hole in the sheet metal and retained by a nut on the inside. Generally, the plastic clips / welded studs are used where limited access on the inside of the panel prevents attaching a nut.
Ok, so why can't I use a plastic clip on that last spot instead of that metal wire looking thingy?.
For starters, there's no weld stud in that location to mount the plastic clip to it, like the other bathtub clips have.
Believe it or not, Fisher Body engineers had reasons for using specific trim mounting clips in specific locations. Those corner pieces "anchor" the roof outline trim so it doesn't move. It allows for body flex and a little fore and aft adjustment for the pieces that use the plastic bathtub style clips.
Do you have a 1972 Fisher Body manual? It shows all trim attachment methods and the clips and retainers used to secure the car's bright trim.
For starters, there's no weld stud in that location to mount the plastic clip to it, like the other bathtub clips have.
Believe it or not, Fisher Body engineers had reasons for using specific trim mounting clips in specific locations. Those corner pieces "anchor" the roof outline trim so it doesn't move. It allows for body flex and a little fore and aft adjustment for the pieces that use the plastic bathtub style clips.
Do you have a 1972 Fisher Body manual? It shows all trim attachment methods and the clips and retainers used to secure the car's bright trim.
Yes sir I do, but I couldn't find the info. So I absolutely NEED to use the wire trim clips on the last anchor point?
The trim can easily peel off of the snap-on plastic clips. The stronger clip with the stud and nut were used at the leading and trailing edges to ensure the trim didn't come loose. The last thing you would want is for the brushes on a car wash to lift the trim the first time you took the car through. You will also see this on the trim used along doors. The majority of the clips are the plastic snap-on ones that go over the welded trim nails. The leading and trailing ends use special clips that accept a screw from the backside. Also keep in mind that these clips that use studs or screws require access from the backside. On the assembly line this is easy at the ends, but not so much where an assembly line worker needs to reach in blind and install a fastener. This is another reason why the plastic clips were used as much as possible.
So if I ABSOLUTELY have to use the wire clips where they're supposed to go, then once I get them, how do I prevent this? (It's what led me down this rabbit hole in the first place...) (BTW, the driver side is fine) Vinyl top trim fitment issue
The trim can easily peel off of the snap-on plastic clips. The stronger clip with the stud and nut were used at the leading and trailing edges to ensure the trim didn't come loose. The last thing you would want is for the brushes on a car wash to lift the trim the first time you took the car through. You will also see this on the trim used along doors. The majority of the clips are the plastic snap-on ones that go over the welded trim nails. The leading and trailing ends use special clips that accept a screw from the backside. Also keep in mind that these clips that use studs or screws require access from the backside. On the assembly line this is easy at the ends, but not so much where an assembly line worker needs to reach in blind and install a fastener. This is another reason why the plastic clips were used as much as possible.
I appreciate the reply Joe, but it seems like the wire clips just aren't as secure as the plastic ones. The wire ones just seem too flimsy (if that makes aense.)
For starters, there's no weld stud in that location to mount the plastic clip to it, like the other bathtub clips have.
Believe it or not, Fisher Body engineers had reasons for using specific trim mounting clips in specific locations. Those corner pieces "anchor" the roof outline trim so it doesn't move. It allows for body flex and a little fore and aft adjustment for the pieces that use the plastic bathtub style clips.
Do you have a 1972 Fisher Body manual? It shows all trim attachment methods and the clips and retainers used to secure the car's bright trim.
Do you know where in the body manual it references the attachment methods and clips?.
I appreciate the reply Joe, but it seems like the wire clips just aren't as secure as the plastic ones. The wire ones just seem too flimsy (if that makes aense.)
You appear to have new wire-type clips, not the heavy OEM ones.
The ones on my car had either a rubber piece or a glob of something on them to keep water out. If you only use the clip you run the risk of water getting in the holes and then into the trunk. I'd put a little silicone around each stud as you put them in. And looking at your alignment pic, if I remember correctly, the corner had a male end on it that goes into the trim to keep it aligned. It looks like yours is broken off.
You posted what you need, the spring clips for the corners and the plastic clips for the long pieces of trim. Yes you need them both. No you can't do without the spring clips. Again, I think your trim piece is broken.
You posted what you need, the spring clips for the corners and the plastic clips for the long pieces of trim. Yes you need them both. No you can't do without the spring clips. Again, I think your trim piece is broken.
I checked and its not broken. All I need to know is how the spring clips are used and what the OEM ones look like compared to the repops.
I just realized you are comparing two different styles of trim. Your Supreme does NOT use those spring clips, it just uses the studs on the back of the corner trim, then the plastic clips for the long pieces. If your corner trim is missing the studs, you need to replace the trim. And look up reproduction trim and you will see the male end I'm talking about that slides into the trim to keep it in place and aligned.
Ok..so further investigation revealed that the trim, in fact, was broken.
I ended up using the metal wire clip in the last hole and the set I ordered came with regular nuts instead of the speed nuts...great improvement!
Suffice to say the old clip was definitely worse for wear...
I ordered a set of the corner trim from Fusick and wouldn't you know it, it wouldn't fit right out of the box.
If you notice, the stud misses the hole by about 3/8". This is not because the stud is in the wrong location (I checked it against the old piece). It's because the part that slides into the bottom window trim was too long and I think it was hitting against the stud for that bottom window piece. So I cut 3/8" off that section and then had to file the relief back far enough to clear. I'm happy to report that after that, all went well, and everything is all lined up now. Here's a before and after.
My only issue (small issue) is that the new corner trim is shinier than the old trim but I guess it's gonna just have to be what it is. Maybe over time it will "wear in"
You did the right thing in order to achieve proper look, fitment. Personally, that level of mis-alignment would drive me nuts. It's either right or not.
