That is a great color. I love Ford blue. Really sharp. Congrats !

 

Here's a link to a thread to install the mirror. Have a look https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post152677

BTW, if you want a more finished look to the edge of the mirror, use some black door edge molding and cut to fit. Use heat gun as needed to form the contours and set the adhesive.

I would not take the visor apart unless you have to. Reassembly means you have to re-stitch the outer edge, plus there are 2 metal end seals and the metal attachment mount you would have to remove and reattach. Not worth it. To change everything to black, I would go to Canadian Tire and get some black vinyl dye. Mask off the chrome pieces and shoot it black. That stuff works very well.

 

Hey thanks for the compliment Blackpage. Allan ,can that vinyl dye work on that wind lace pc that runs down the rear quarter ,I want to change it to black to match the panels ,or should i just buy a new one instead ?I've already painted the pc that runs down beside the rear seat and Im going to paint the arm rest base also with some Duplicolour trim paint .Got some TSP to clean it up first ,then some adhesion promoter then the paint .BTW who makes the vinyl dye ?

 

Found the broadcast sheet underneath my rear seat ,kinda crappy condition but it is 40 years old !Not sure about all the info on it but the car was made April 14 .Allan are you able to decipher for me ?,like I know you can .

 

Yes, the vinyl dye will work on the windlace. You're on the right track with the cleaning. After TSP make sure you rinse really well. The dye doesn't need adhesion promoter like SEM paint does. Much easier product to work with. Who makes the dye? Duplicolor


re: buying new windlace?? NO! The only windlaces that are repopped right now are for the CS. That makes it about 10" too short for your fastback. Don't wreck the one you've got or you'll be looking for a donor car. (The 68-72 Cutlass/442 fastbacks are the only ones you can use for donors on this part)

Your car was the 197th one produced on April 14, 1972 at this plant.
33287 means it's an f85 (entry level Cutlass).
Body number 452733 is the Fisher production number of your car. If you look at your COWL tag, you should see that number stamped on it.
914 is the Trim combination - this was 'Covert Gold' Cloth with vinyl edging.
63 T Means your original paint was Saddle Bronze (very nice BTW - some would call it "copper", and the T means a Covert Gold Vinyl Roof
A52 - is the standard Bench seat
B30 - is "nylon blend loop pile carpeting' nb: the 72 base Cutlass would have come with color keyed heavy duty rubber floor coating otherwise as standard equipment. That's why its specified as an option.

I can't remember if your car is a Lansing car or not. If it is? Your car was built exactly 7 days after mine. My body number is 442325 which is remarkably close to yours.

 

Yep my car was built in Lansing ,very cool that our cars were built so close ,I looked at my cowl tag and all the same numbers are listed as the broadcast sheet BUT my car has a green dash and steering column so at some point it was changed but the carpet is a dark gold colour (but very rough shape,not saveable )and the door panels are an off white colour ,so who knows when and why it was changed ,it's a mystery. I like black so that's what it's going to become ,besides black goes with everything .
I love the Blue colour of the car so it's very unlikely I'll be going back to the original colour but I may go to an Oldsmobile blue in the future(it's a Ford blue now)I've seen the viking blue and it's nice .Maybe stripes too !
Heading over to crappy tire today will look for the vinyl dye in black .
Thanks for all the info Allan ,your a wealth of info to all us guys who are just getting into this hobby.

 

You're welcome. Glad to help out. Yup, I was figuring that out about the body numbers after I posted. In 1 week, Olds would have cranked out just over 10,000 cars. If you take that and divide by the production lines (Lansing, Framingham, Arlington, Freemont) that means they averaged 2500 cars each week. There were 2 shifts - day and night. Assuming the factory ran 16 hours a day, that' a new Oldsmobile almost every 2 minutes!

Here's what your car would look like in code 26 Viking Blue. This one is owned by Kevin Gilbert - a recent restoration. From our All Olds show last Saturday. IMO it was one of the nicest ones there. IIRC most of his resto parts came from Fusicks and the electrical was done by a fellow named Terry. What a fabulous car. The wheels are Torque Thrust with 60 series I believe. (in case you're looking at wheel options)

 

well got some paint today and went to town on my interior pcs !Duplicolor
Black Vinyl and Fabric (as per Allan's advice ) paint worked like a charm! Precleaned the pcs with TSP,rinsed with water and dried then Wax & Grease remover and sprayed away ! Turned out pretty nice I think .

 

More pics !everybody loves pics!

 

Nicely done! Everything looks like new! BTW, I agree that black is a more universal color for interiors. Just hard to keep from getting dusty. You prolly will need to get new carpet instead of keeping the old one. Make sure when you take out the OEM carpet you KEEP the HIGH BEAM GROMMET. Most replacement carpets don't come with them.

 

Thank you sir ! Yes it turned out nice and it was super easy with that paint .New carpet is in the plan ,the old carpet is totally shot ,I'll try and remember that grommet .I want to take out the front seat and POR 15 the floor pan.I do have a bit of a challenge though ,I can't get the seat belt anchor bolt out from beside the door ,I have the correct torx driver but it is so damn tight in there I buggered up the inside of the bolt ,not sure what to do next maybe grind the bolt on both sides so I can use a wrench ?

 

Try soaking the bolt with penetrating oil for a few days? tap the area a bit to help the oil go deeper? Have you tried using an easy out? If that doesn't work you can sure try what you suggested. If you take out the seat and can protect the belts with a flame retardent cloth you could try a propane torch to heat the bolt. Try turning it when it's hot. A lot like busting loose stubborn flare nuts on brake line/hose.

 

Lookin good ,,

 

Thanks Henry ! Just plugging away on it little bit at time .

 

Doing some more MAW's ! One thing leads to another ,removed and cleaned and painted the inner fenders ,then painted cleaned and painted the cowl ,then bead blasted the rad cover ,alternator bracket and hood hinges all primed & painted ,did I mention I removed the hood too ? then the firewall painted.
I have some better headlight buckets going in also ,cleaned and painted the Oldsmobile grill emblem ,cleaned and painted fender braces ,cleaned and painted the supports for the side marker lights .Whew!

 

You'll NEVER have a better opportunity to check your blower motor and wiring, or pull the front suspension, clean and replace parts as needed and do the bushings. MAW pull the rad support and clean it up too!

 

That's a lot of MAW's there Allan ! I'm only one guy ,BUT i am going to pull the rad and clean it and paint it and the support too .I need a MAW helmet !

 

LOL I know what you mean, but trust me. I'm dead serious that you won't get a a better opportunity to do this stuff. With all the space that's available without the inner liners and the hood? It would almost be a crime not to jump in there. The upper/lower CA bushings aren't that expensive. Neither are the ball joints. All the rest of what you'll end up doing there is cosmetic clean up to make the engine bay sparkle.

BTW, see how exposed the heater blower is when the inner liner is out? This is the time to do any replacement or cleanup of that unit. Once you put the inner fender liners back in? It's totally inaccessible. I found that rather than let the enormity of ALL the MAW's smack you in the face, it's easier to target one at a time. When you go to re-assemble, all the parts will just slide into place nicer when they've been cleaned up or replaced with new.

I feel your frustration - I'm still working on my car. Just finished the front air dam yesterday. It was an interesting/fun and relatively easy project. https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...looked+air+dam

 

I will say it again.... there's only 6 bolts holding the body to the frame! You know, you "might as well" lol

 

Shane - I LIKE the way you think. He will need the extra space to work with though.

 

Don't give him any ideas on that!

 

umm, what I meant was he would need to rig a pulley system to lift it in his garage. Then he could store the frame outside or at a powder coaters while he concentrates on the body. Yeah that's it, that's what I meant...

 

you know Shane if your offering the other side of your garage to pull the body off i could go for that !!but I guess if you find another project car soon (R350)that idea goes out the window !!LOL

 

A few more of what I ve done lately Found a nice little painting device from PREVAL that works awesome for small jobs around the car with your proper
paint colour ,just add your paint and reducer/hardner and the aerosol attachment and spray .COOL i like it!
www.preval.com/what-is-preval

 

That looks good. What kind of paint are you using ?

 

Thanks Henry ,I got the paint through Paint Plus ,the can says 2nd Dimension ,I believe it is an Acrylic Enamel .

 

Looks very nice! I'll have to look for something like that. Just took off the rear bumper today and there's some places that need a good touching up.