installing trunk weatherstrip
installing trunk weatherstrip
I finally recieved the replacement weatherstripping from Fusick for my cutlass' trunk. The silly question that I had was how should it be installed. The stuff that is on the car now was the incorrect type (so I have no help there). There are also no instructions with the packaging saying which way it should be placed, or even what is the top or the bottom.
Here is a link to a picture of the weatherstripping.
http://www.fusickautomotiveproducts....p?number=TWL75
I'm guessing that the long curve on the left of the strip should be facing out from the trunk. But should any of it be under the metal lip that surrounds the trunk?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Here is a link to a picture of the weatherstripping.
http://www.fusickautomotiveproducts....p?number=TWL75
I'm guessing that the long curve on the left of the strip should be facing out from the trunk. But should any of it be under the metal lip that surrounds the trunk?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Last edited by chip-powell; May 15, 2014 at 07:04 AM.
Thanks. I knew from working on other cars years (and years) ago, that the joint should be off center on the bottom. It still strikes me as odd though that the long slope on the left side of the weatherstrip would be facing the trunk opening. Wouldn't that force the water to flow toward the trunk instead of away?
I will trust you on it though. The weatherstrip that is in there now was put in years ago and I have no idea what it was actually supposed to be used for. It is rectangular in shape and about 3/4" wide and about 1/8" thick (like something used on the front door of your house).
I will trust you on it though. The weatherstrip that is in there now was put in years ago and I have no idea what it was actually supposed to be used for. It is rectangular in shape and about 3/4" wide and about 1/8" thick (like something used on the front door of your house).
Last edited by chip-powell; May 15, 2014 at 02:39 PM.
Nope. As with any compliant seal, the lip should point toward the stuff (water, in this case) you're trying to keep from passing. This way, any positive pressure differential across the seal from wet to dry will force the lip to seal even tighter. Turned the other way, pressure would force the lip down and allow the rain in. What about when there is no pressure differential? Well then the compression of the lip against the mating surface is enough to do the job. And of course, pressure from dry to wet, while it might blow past the lip, isn't going to let the water in, is it?
Nope. As with any compliant seal, the lip should point toward the stuff (water, in this case) you're trying to keep from passing. This way, any positive pressure differential across the seal from wet to dry will force the lip to seal even tighter. Turned the other way, pressure would force the lip down and allow the rain in. What about when there is no pressure differential? Well then the compression of the lip against the mating surface is enough to do the job. And of course, pressure from dry to wet, while it might blow past the lip, isn't going to let the water in, is it?
Looks like the Metro kit is $273 ish but has more than I need. The two doors and trunk come to about $117 which isn't bad. But I really only need the right side door, the driver's looks brand new, nice and soft.
Thanks for the tip, Randy.
Thanks for the tip, Randy.
I've done a Chevy before. Get it right, that stuff will stick hard, clean up what you spilled, then slam the lid on it and walk away. The lid will stay pushed up a bit as it compresses, but should be nice and in shape in a day or so.
Lastly, do I use adhesive on the doors as well? I'll of course do a dry-fit first.
I ran a small bead of some black permatex goop from an auto store, then put the rubber in the same way so maybe a minute between. I went small bead the whole way around.
I have not done doors, but I am pretty sure you use the same.
I have not done doors, but I am pretty sure you use the same.
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