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installing trunk weatherstrip

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Old May 15, 2014 | 07:00 AM
  #1  
chip-powell's Avatar
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installing trunk weatherstrip

I finally recieved the replacement weatherstripping from Fusick for my cutlass' trunk. The silly question that I had was how should it be installed. The stuff that is on the car now was the incorrect type (so I have no help there). There are also no instructions with the packaging saying which way it should be placed, or even what is the top or the bottom.

Here is a link to a picture of the weatherstripping.

http://www.fusickautomotiveproducts....p?number=TWL75

I'm guessing that the long curve on the left of the strip should be facing out from the trunk. But should any of it be under the metal lip that surrounds the trunk?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Last edited by chip-powell; May 15, 2014 at 07:04 AM.
Old May 15, 2014 | 10:55 AM
  #2  
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wait.... what....
 
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Hope this helps.
Old May 15, 2014 | 11:32 AM
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Also to be accurate the joint should be near the latch and should be off center. Most people put it perfectly centered, it shouldn't be.
Old May 15, 2014 | 02:35 PM
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Thanks. I knew from working on other cars years (and years) ago, that the joint should be off center on the bottom. It still strikes me as odd though that the long slope on the left side of the weatherstrip would be facing the trunk opening. Wouldn't that force the water to flow toward the trunk instead of away?

I will trust you on it though. The weatherstrip that is in there now was put in years ago and I have no idea what it was actually supposed to be used for. It is rectangular in shape and about 3/4" wide and about 1/8" thick (like something used on the front door of your house).

Last edited by chip-powell; May 15, 2014 at 02:39 PM.
Old May 15, 2014 | 08:19 PM
  #5  
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I see what you are saying, but mine is like that and it is "correct". Works well too.
Old May 16, 2014 | 03:55 PM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by chip-powell
It still strikes me as odd though that the long slope on the left side of the weatherstrip would be facing the trunk opening. Wouldn't that force the water to flow toward the trunk instead of away?
Nope. As with any compliant seal, the lip should point toward the stuff (water, in this case) you're trying to keep from passing. This way, any positive pressure differential across the seal from wet to dry will force the lip to seal even tighter. Turned the other way, pressure would force the lip down and allow the rain in. What about when there is no pressure differential? Well then the compression of the lip against the mating surface is enough to do the job. And of course, pressure from dry to wet, while it might blow past the lip, isn't going to let the water in, is it?
Old May 16, 2014 | 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackGold
Nope. As with any compliant seal, the lip should point toward the stuff (water, in this case) you're trying to keep from passing. This way, any positive pressure differential across the seal from wet to dry will force the lip to seal even tighter. Turned the other way, pressure would force the lip down and allow the rain in. What about when there is no pressure differential? Well then the compression of the lip against the mating surface is enough to do the job. And of course, pressure from dry to wet, while it might blow past the lip, isn't going to let the water in, is it?
Sounds good to me. Thanks.
Old Jan 12, 2015 | 05:26 PM
  #8  
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Hey Chip, how'd this stuff work out for you? I need new weatherstrip for my 71 supreme. Do you remember how many feet you bought? I'm assuming it's sold by the foot.
Thanks dude
Old Jan 13, 2015 | 12:32 AM
  #9  
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Mac:

I bought the Metro brand kit for just over $100. It fit very well and included everything you needed for the whole car.

Randy
Old Jan 13, 2015 | 05:21 PM
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Looks like the Metro kit is $273 ish but has more than I need. The two doors and trunk come to about $117 which isn't bad. But I really only need the right side door, the driver's looks brand new, nice and soft.
Thanks for the tip, Randy.
Old Jan 13, 2015 | 05:48 PM
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Whoa, same stuff (trunk, two doors), same brand from Summit, only $70 with shipping. Now we're talkin'!

Last edited by Macadoo; Jan 14, 2015 at 03:27 PM.
Old Jan 13, 2015 | 07:25 PM
  #12  
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I got mine from the Tamaraz store on Ebay. Very good price.
Old Jan 13, 2015 | 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by RROLDSX
I got mine from the Tamaraz store on Ebay. Very good price.


As did I. Got a tube of weatherstrip adhesive from Advanced Auto, cleaned out the channel and I'm in business.
Old Jan 14, 2015 | 01:43 PM
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I've done a Chevy before. Get it right, that stuff will stick hard, clean up what you spilled, then slam the lid on it and walk away. The lid will stay pushed up a bit as it compresses, but should be nice and in shape in a day or so.
Old Jan 14, 2015 | 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by oldsman72
As did I. Got a tube of weatherstrip adhesive from Advanced Auto, cleaned out the channel and I'm in business.
Good to know that Advance has the adhesive. Thanks.

Originally Posted by Koda
I've done a Chevy before. Get it right, that stuff will stick hard, clean up what you spilled, then slam the lid on it and walk away. The lid will stay pushed up a bit as it compresses, but should be nice and in shape in a day or so.
I've never done this before; do I run a solid bead all the way around or more like a spot every "X" inches? What's the work time with the adhesive?
Lastly, do I use adhesive on the doors as well? I'll of course do a dry-fit first.
Old Jan 14, 2015 | 08:47 PM
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I ran a small bead of some black permatex goop from an auto store, then put the rubber in the same way so maybe a minute between. I went small bead the whole way around.

I have not done doors, but I am pretty sure you use the same.
Old Jan 15, 2015 | 06:28 PM
  #17  
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Thanks Koda
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