Hello i am new to this group. My name is Chris Browning and i am 19 so building cars is slightly new to me. I am about to rebuild a 1977 oldsmobile cutlass of some sort and i need to know exactly what it is and the engine build so i can start getting parts of it. I know it is an automatic if that helps and the vin # is 3G37R7D226651. This info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

1977 Cutlass S (Style 37)Hardtop coupe
350 4 barrel
Manufactured in Doraville, Georgia

 

Joe P. from another board posted this link, here you go
Drew's Oldsmobile VIN Guides

 

It is probably a TH 350 transmission. You can identify it by looking at the pan. A TH 350 is square with a notch cut out of one corner and the TH 400 has an S shape in it.

 

I think 77 is in my top 3 for the best looking cutlasses ever.
Do you have the Collonade front nose, or the wrap up grille one?

Here is a picture of what not to do.... and the 2 header styles.

a 77 884 4 door coupe

(I am not responsible for the stroke you are about to have)

 

Since you're new to restoring cars, I'll give you a little advice many of us have learned along the way. I'll call this an economic warning.
When restoring a car (or even putting a car that needs work onto the road) the big and little things often add up to big $. Many times, when the project is complete, far more cash is into the project than it would have cost to buy a really nice driver in the first place.
Now... I'm not saying you shouldn't restore your car. I'm just saying you should spend time in advance evaluating what needs replacing, and how much each of those items will cost you. Then multiply that number by at least 1.5 or 2x to figure out how much it will cost you when your done.
I haven't looked lately, but a clean '77 cutlass on e-bay may not cost much more than a top to bottom engine rebuild.
If you do buy a driver, the flip side is that you won't experiance the satisfaction of accomplishment, garage time with your buddies, skinned knuckles, or crazy looks from friends and family. I seem to always choose the restoration path. I just can't help myself.

 

To go along with a guy 19 years old wanting to restore his Olds, Great! I say! yea it gets exspensive, I turned 50 this year.

My 70 delta 88 I inherited from my next door nieghbor who passed on a year ago at 86, Art bought this car new in 1970, I am second owner. Summer before last he was on hospice, called me, and signed the title over to me. Things like this are emotional as being his nieghbor I would help him with what he needed help with (life lesson there) not for anything I could expect or want.

I felt the car was more of a "pain" to have as it didn't fit into the garage without some modifications to the structure, ect. Leaked oil, tranny, power steering, about the best i can say is the interior is emmaculant, and it did run.

I found myself back in 1970 away from computers, internet and otherwise general trash of today. Since then with this car I, and my son, have got it in very good shape, last week I dropped the 8 track, and set the tracking on it, sounds great now.

I believe this car also has a cameo appereance in the A team, episode I was watching last year filmed in 1986, Art (previous owner) lived in Malibu CA till mid 1986.

Guess what this boils down too is, for me anyway, getting to work on a distributor, carb, points, ect, and with a 455, gets me to the "better time" of my life when life was alot easier.

At 19, I congratulate you on your preserveance!!!! Keep us informed, and I guarenntee you I at least will help with what I can, best of luck!

Kevin

 

Like everybody else said, it's expensive but fun.

I personally dropped a 1968 Olds 350 Rocket into a 1985 Delta 88. I'm building the car for a street/strip car. I bought it with the 307 and the car ran mid 20's, now it's running high 15's and it's not fully tuned yet.

People think I'm nuts, you'll get that a lot.

As for your up comming project: what needs to be fixed ASAP, and what can wait? I still have things I want to do to the car, but at the age of 30, with 2 other cars, along with a wife, house, bills, and a dog to pay for, the car has to take the back burner treatment every once in a while. When kids come into the pic, I'm keeping the car, but it will slow down the finish date.

Whatever you can do yourself is good, don't be afraid to borreow tools, ask for help or advice, etc etc. Older cars are good for this, the parts are a bit cheaper than newer cars. My Alero's fuel pump just cost me $550 (including labor) but the Delta's new fuel pump was $25 on ebay and $0.50 for the gasket, and I installed it myself. But older cars need more new parts, so it can get expensive.

First thing's first, what are your plans for this car? What do you want it to be?

 

Welcome to the hobby. Just be aware that the 73-77 GM A-body cars (which include your Cutlass) are not very popular with restorers. As a result, the supply of repro parts is very limited. If you plan to do much work on the car, your first investment should be a Chassis Service Manual, followed by a Fisher Body Manual. You'll need to find these used on Ebay.

 

yea i am gonna start working on it as soon as i go home for christmas break. i got all the info i needed and i really appreciate you guys. Ill be BACK for more though lol! Is it possible my engine is the 350 Rocket? and if so what kind of performance should i expect out of it?

 

it looks like this

 

I plan on just restoring it first and putting it in a couple of shows, drag racing and just cruising. i will mostly be bracket racing but i still like it fast. haha i have been racing bikes so i dont plan to wreck haha . it could still happen though i guess. i wanna put a supercharger on it. i have to put the whole car together man. lol i love this car but the only downfall i can see is it is automatic. other than that i wouldnt change a thing

 

DAMN.
I'm looking for one of those around here. That front Header panel is SHARP.
Ken on ROP has a 78 for sale about 10 min from me but It has that awful red interior, and I don't think I could stand it for very long.

 

They're ALL called "Rocket". Today it would be called "brand management". There's unfortunately no magic performance connotation, just marketing. From the questions we get here regularly, it was apparently a successful marketing campaign.

 

yea mine has new gloss black paint and chrome and has a black interior. I am going to take some pictures of it over break and put on here. Yea i think it looks tight but i am ready to get it runnin lol. I dont plan on putting any rims on it either man cause i like the original rims. they look tight. I gotta do a lot of work on the inside. I am going to design the interior myself it will probably be either purple and black or blue and black.

 

I owned a '77 Cutlass coupe a few years back..........for about two weeks until it was stolen. It was sure pretty.

 

So was the 307 rocket too?

The "Rocket" name was dropped in during the 1970's

In 1977, the 3 motors I see are the 260, 350, and the 403. If you can tell me the block numbers, I can give you what info I have, and then we can talk performance numbers

The Block ID number is between the manifold and timing chain cover. It's probably covered by grease and dirt. Wipe it off and get me those numbers

 

im at school right now man but when i go home i will get back with you. my motor is apart in the garage. its been rebuilt as well as the suspension i just have to put it together man. there was a bunch of numbers on the manifold right under teh carb though. are those it? if so i can call my mom and get her to write them down for me

 

Those might be the firing order.

 

LOL...I can hear it now.

"OK, son, do you have a pen? Here they are...

1 - 8 - 4 - 3 ..."

 

Great one! Although I'd take it as a person that dosen't know, and is asking. Lets help him.
Great thing this forum is to help with information.
I myself ask questions, and appreciate answers.

 

No that would be the firing order, these numbers are on the engine block itself, next to the oil fill tube, under the water neck tube. See below

olds350.jpg

 

Wow! talk about rust....

 

^^ Yeah that was the motor in stock fourm.

That manifold is long gone now. Gawd was is heavy

 

I'd eat off of that one still. I once took off an aluminum manifold soooo nasty, it weighed about as much as a cast iron one
The car had been sitting under an Elm tree for years with no hood, and all of those little seeds had formed an inch of soil and were starting to grow little trees in it.
You know how when you clean the gutters you get that smell of rot with centepedes n crap in it.....

I just HAD to know what manifold it was being aluminum and all.......
80-84 307 on a 350

 

don't put a supercharger on it...they're nowhere near as good as a turbo, in my opinion.

or...

twin turbo!

come on...it's only like... $6k if you know how to do the work yourself

 

How do you figure?

Actually, arguments could be made either way. Superchargers offer instant boost, whereas a turbo takes time to spool up. But on the other hand, superchargers rob horsepower since they're belt driven. A turbo runs off waste exhaust. And both are very expensive.

I say all-motor, all the way. Use some nitrous if you must have a power adder.

Just my .02

 

Above all, don't rush. I got my car for $200.00, dropped in a fresh 350, (12 years ago) I drove it as a summer driver for 11 years, now I'm doing the frame off. Wait till next year. Most of all, keep that Olds alive.
Best of luck, Jim.

 

hey man i got some numbers but dont know if they are right. these are on the bottom of the block. this number is on the outside of the oil pan to the right-10, this is inside the oil pan to the left-15. on the back left two pistons there are also some numbers as well. Better Yet.. What numbers would i be looking for. if it was a 350, 260 or 403.. what numbers would it read?

 

Tight like a Tiger!

 

Chris, Redog showed you where the block number is, but I'll show you again, This picture is a 403 block.



If you do have a 77 350 the number should be 557752 or 554964. These would be followed by 3A or maybe 3B

A 260 would be 557751 or 550355 or 554965