When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So I'm having issues getting fuel again!!! Back story is I had the carb rebuilt twice, fuel lines replaced, fuel pump replaced (although the one I had was new) All that being said the car has been running fine since doing so. I usually drive her 1-2 times a week around the block or to the store to keep her loose. This past Sunday I took her on the freeway and drive 20 miles round trip maybe. She was fine when I did so. As I always have done I parked her and called it a night. Yesterday I was going to fire her up and hit the gym when she wouldn't turnover so I thought maybe the starter was acting up cause I have a long start at times but that wasn't it. I think took the air filter and cover off, poured a lil gas in the carb and she fired up I went to hit the gas and she cut off soon as I hit the petal. I was able to fire her up again with the gas in the reserve this time I pulled back on the carb to rev it up and it cut back off. I fired her up again and lightly revved it up then hit the petal harder and it was fine until I burned the gas in the reserve. Then she shutoff again. I was able to replicate this again by repeating the same steps. So I'm not getting gas all over again!!!!!
I will say that last week I came from the gym last Thursday and when i pulled up to my place the car kind of stuttered like it was running out of gas but I had a quarter tank. When i got the car the sock was stuck in the tank so the gas meter didn't work. I had that replaced and tank cleaned (fyi) So now the meter works. When I went to fill her up last Saturday she was just fine no stuttering at all so i figured it was a 1 off.
Where does my ts start. I will post videos today or tomorrow of the issue.
I would remove the fuel line before the fuel pump and see if you have fuel running out of the line from the tank. Depending the outcome of that will be the direction you need to go further.
Will do in the am. i was thinking of replacing the pump since it's so cheap. the one the mechanic put on there has always been suspect to me because I can't find one online that look like the one he put on there. But at any rate I will troubleshoot this weekend. Just wanted some pointers of what to look at. Thanks
Airtex is a common brand that show up at many auto part stores. I have one on my car. I"m assuming you're working on your 70 350, but you didn't say. They have several part numbers too. Also carter and holley etc.
When looking at fuel pumps on line, the photo might not be the correct pump you need. Look at the arm, the canister shape or size and if the fittings are on bottom or top. There might be two fittings or three. What do you have? Many fuel pumps are listed for an Oldsmobile, but keep in mind that some Oldsmobiles later came with chevy or even buick engines. Don't let that get in the way of you getting a correct fuel pump. Just beware when comparing pictures.
Well I have a 3 line pump on my 1970 cutlass 350. The brand new one I had on there was all gold. This new one is silver. I seen some that are gray and gold or all gold but I've been on a lot of part sites today and couldn't find an all silver one with 3 lines. This mechanic that screw me to begin with. He should have never took off the brand new pump my grandfather had on there. I'm just looking online to get an idea of how much it was going to be in doing so i can't find this particular pump. Since getting this pump also I've had a few issues which i never had before, but being as the car was locked away for 6 years I figured I just had a few bugs to workout.
Last edited by ddunmore81; October 14th, 2016 at 11:35 AM.
It does matter that it works, if it is the problem. You might just need a fuel filter..yes another one. You've had a lot of fuel system work and another fuel filter is not out of the question.
I can't speak for the mechanic, but if it was an "old" new pump that your grandfather installed, it might not have been acceptable or obsolete due to modern fuels.
Yes, after being locked away for 6 years, it is entirely possible that you'll have fuel delivery problems. It seems you have worked through most of them.
It might be helpful to post some pics,fuel pump, carb, overall engine, the car could have any number of modifications and that only leaves the forum members to guess what you have on your car.
Answered my own question guys it's right on top. So i will check the line and then the filter
Originally Posted by RetroRanger
It might be helpful to post some pics,fuel pump, carb, overall engine, the car could have any number of modifications and that only leaves the forum members to guess what you have on your car.
Well after setting the car on fire i decided to just buy a new carb. This is the 3rd time it has went sour. I took off the filter socket and discovered that the bolt hole had been helicoiled but that's after I just unscrewed it a bit and saw that fuel was coming thru the line to the carb and the fuel pump was working. I also saw that i had a new filter in place. I rather spend $200 on a new carb then play with fire.
I'm sure it will as I'm getting gas thru the lines and pump. To be honest since the 2nd rebuild the carb has been struggling. It took longer to start and warm up. before I just had to turn the key. After i had to pump and hold the petal etc. The guy told me driving it more would fix the issues but it actually broke it. I'm glad all of this happened at home and not while I was on the road.
The fact that the connector to the carb had a helicoil and not a very good one amazes me because that is the main source of gas to the carb and I don't how they feel but I think that should be screwed tight as hell. Unless you like fire.
Not unusual to find a helicoil there on old carbs. When starting do you set t
He choke by depressing the gas to the floor before starting the car? In today's fuel injected world many have forgotten the gas pedal needs some manipulation starting a carbed car.
Last edited by RetroRanger; October 18th, 2016 at 02:28 PM.
Yeas but it would shut right back off and if I try to drive off the car would die and I had to crank back up. If i ran it for 10 mins revving the gas before leaving it would stay on. I'm not opposed to the hexicoil it was just a shitty coil that came out. I could just recoil it but I would still have carb issues. A remanufactured carb of this brand is $199.00. I'm tired of dealing with the same issue of no gas.
sounds more like a choke issue if it stayed running giving it gas but died out after setting the choke is an e choke an option for that carb?
Not sure how to adjust that I will look into it. No my choke is not electric. I'm thinking of just hexi-coiling the connector and giving it another go but really doubt that carb is any good. I fired her up Saturday before the fire and she did the same thing ran smoothly for 45 seconds and shut back off. I have the service manual so I'm sure I can figure it out but the fact that gas is making it to the carb tells me the carb is the issue
To adjust the choke, you loosen the three little screws in the blue circle. Then turn the slot in the white circle to richer or leaner. While doing this you'll want the choke flap just slightly open at about an 1/8''.
In this picture, its looks correct. In fact it looks just right. You might just need a choke pull off valve and that is in the green circle.
If you feel you need to adjust the choke, just do it a little at a time and on a cold engine. If you do it on a hot engine you'll want that choke flap open to about 45-60 degrees, or about 1/2".
Its often hard to diagnose this long distance. These old 2bbl carbs worked well then, and can still work good now. It just might take a little work.
I would love to test that out but 1st I have to find the hexi-coil size of the filter housing. It had some cheap ring that looked like the loop on a keychain. (which was tight but not really) Also it came completely off so now the housing doesn't fit. I see some really good ones online that look like they would work. With this being reliant on being sealed tight if i can't find the correct size i'm going to buy a new carb just to be safe. I found a few stores that carry them and will take the housing into store to make sure it fits.
So I bought a new carburetor and got it all hooked up but the car won't start. I adjusted the choke and I know it's getting gas. I even poured a little gas in the carburetor still won't turn over. I tried until I ran the battery down lol. I'm getting it charged now. I have a question about those screw on the bottom of the carburetor so I need to adjust those?
Ok I did some research and see those are mixture screws. This is my 1st time installing a carburetor. It seams it should be simple but nothing ever is when I'm working on cars.
Got the cutlass started but the idle is off. Need to tweak the mixture screws and adjust the idle. I'm done for today tho so learned to take my W's one at a time
October 14th, 2016, 05:49 AM
