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If your just cruising it and not doing road races or auto cross, the stock style Moog parts can't be beat. I was part of the Proforge test group for their center link, tie rod ends, and idler arm a few years back. The parts are still on there and work flawlessly, You'll be surprised at just how well the car will handle by just replacing worn out parts.
Ya definitely go with USA rubber parts. Do install poly swaybar and end link bushings. That will give the desired smooth ride and flatten out the corners even more than a 442 is noted for. Spend some money on shocks, Koni QA1 etc...you won't be sorry with either of these upgrades.
Really dig that go fast red 7 with the wires and red lines.
Polyurethane control arm bushings are easier for a DIY install than rubber. No need for a press or special tooling--ordinary tools plus a propane torch is all you'd have to have. And the suspension bolts can be torqued with the suspension at any height, unlike rubber bushings.
Poly bushings are likely to be a bit firmer than OEM rubber. Better, sharper handling with potential trade-off in harshness.
Polyurethane control arm bushings are easier for a DIY install than rubber. No need for a press or special tooling--ordinary tools plus a propane torch is all you'd have to have. And the suspension bolts can be torqued with the suspension at any height, unlike rubber bushings.
Poly bushings are likely to be a bit firmer than OEM rubber. Better, sharper handling with potential trade-off in harshness.
WHY are you replacing the upper shafts?
I had a bitch of a time installing the urethane bushings. I'll never bother with that again. I don't plan on any high speed chases in the future.
I have the same question, why do the upper shafts need replacement? You can get originals form Olds-pac-rat or you can get new from Rock Auto.
Stock replacements work well enough and often the upper shafts are offset to help your alignment guy compensate for some of the A body known issues. I used the proforge extended ball joints to help with the steering geometry and then needed to replace the stock upper control arms and offset shafts with adjustable type upper arms on my 67. My point is the ball joints are one of the best , economical ways to improve geometry and feel. So if you think that is an option for you don’t do the upper shafts and bushings first because you will just end up replacing them. Tire wear is a lot more even now because it is more planted in the turn so the edges don't wear off too fast. Just my two cents.
Last edited by 1of1442; May 2nd, 2019 at 09:21 AM.
I had a bitch of a time installing the urethane bushings. I'll never bother with that again.
What part of the operation gave you trouble?
Five minutes with a propane torch and the rubber insert falls on the floor. It does smell bad, there's smoke and some burning rubber. Clean up the inside of the existing shell with emery cloth and Scotchbrite...grease the Poly insert on the ID and OD, slide it and the steel sleeve into the original steel shell. And again, unlike rubber bushings that have to be torqued at normal ride height, Poly bushings can be torqued with the suspension in any position.
The worst part of the whole installation process is getting the suspension apart so the bushings are accessible; and sometimes the steel sleeve is not reusable due to corrosion--so a new one has to be fabricated from steel tubing, if new steel sleeves aren't supplied with the bushings. I'll be making sleeves for the upper bushings on an '88 K1500 in the next few days. I had trouble locating steel tubing the right size, and I'll still have to sand about .020 off of the OD to get exactly the size I need. Other vehicles use standard-size tubing and it's just a matter of cutting to length, polish it a little, and slide 'em in place. Again, the bushing kit may come with new sleeves, or the ones you have can be re-used if they're not pitted badly.
It's possible that a steel bushing shell could be damaged and un-usable as well. I've never seen it on the vehicles I've put bushings in--but I've heard of it. The OEM bushing is so bad for so long that the shell gets worn-through. At that point, you'd be in trouble...but it's also very rare. Some Poly bushing kits come with new shells. Otherwise, you'd need a shell from a core control arm, or a new OEM-style rubber bushing. Replacing the shell is what requires the special tooling and a press.
I ordered a full kit, sleeves and all. Although it didn't have stabilizer bar bushings. I think it was Energy Suspension, and even with that sticky grease they give you I had to press them in. Had to work them in as well, wasn't a one shot deal. I did the uppers and lowers. I didn't do the rears.
I ordered a full kit, sleeves and all. Although it didn't have stabilizer bar bushings. I think it was Energy Suspension, and even with that sticky grease they give you I had to press them in. Had to work them in as well, wasn't a one shot deal. I did the uppers and lowers. I didn't do the rears.
Putting them in the freezer for 24 hours before install helps a ton.
April 29th, 2019, 11:26 AM
I think it was Energy Suspension, and even with that sticky grease they give you I had to press them in. Had to work them in as well, wasn't a one shot deal. I did the uppers and lowers. I didn't do the rears.
